Hi there,

I have a 1983 280CE with an auto trans that I think is on the way out. It seems not to be transferring much power and it makes a bad whine in 2nd (doesn't seem to whine in 3rd and 4th so I'm guessing it's an issue with the actual gears).

I've picked up a spare trans from a mercedes breaker for the equivalent of around $40. The guy seemed very honest and said it had driven fine on the 280TE it had come from. The car had 120k miles on it.

I've got the trans in my garage and have been cleaning it up (there was a lot of filth from the road on it as you'd imagine, particularly as it's been on UK roads for 120k miles.

It'd be great if people gave me their opinions on what to do to the trans while it's out of the car and I have good access to it before putting it on the car (I was thinking of replacing the B2 piston, doing the K1 spring kit, and of course replacing the trans mount). Anything else I should do?

Also, are there any tips or tricks (or things to watch for/expect trouble from) when swapping the trans over? I have a 12 foot by 25 foot garage with a small inspection pit, some ramps and jack stands, and a few different trolley and screw jacks.

I've not seen a DIY or thread with photos for removing the trans - is there one out there or is it so obvious it doesn't need it?

Thanks
Mike

I'll try to get my signature in order so you all know what I have

I haven't seen one with pictures - but here's a recent one done for a 722.1 transmission - for removal of the 722.3(?) transmission in your car it is very close to being the same.

722.118 Transmission Removal and replacement

Some people say it is easier to remove the engine and the transmission in one go! And then split the transmission and engine later on. It does sound a bit mad but I imagine it is much easier to remove and fit the transmission. There are some delicate bits that really don't appreciate being shoved, kicked and knocked.

BUT before "we" get round to fitting your 30 quid transmission can you confirm the transmission type you've got? We need a number like 722.3XX which you'll find on the right hand side of the gearbox just above the oil pan (of the gearbox)...

...I'm guessing you're gonna be lucky if you install your 30 quid transmission and not have any trouble. Swapping a transmission is a lot of work only to end up in a similar situation - perhaps it is worthwhile making sure that the old one is shot first?

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Replace the output shaft seal while it is out and replace the rear main seal in the engine if it is a normal lip seal. If the rear main seal in this engine is like the diesels then leave it alone.

You are going to want to remove the rear transmission mount to let the rear of it hang down as far as it can. With this done use a really long extension to get a socket on the upper most fasteners that hold the transmission to the engine. Do you have a jack for the transmission?

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Jim

My ADD is kicking in pretty good... so I didn't really read the op's post.

Will will need lot's of extensions and a universal joint. I use 3/8" drive stuff but 1/2 would be more ideal. Unbolt the rear cross support on the tranny and put a block of wood under the front oil pan and jack the engine up. That is going to be the only way your going to get to all the bolts holding that transmission in. Oh and I'm sure you know... auto tranny's are very heavy!

Goodluck

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08 R320 CDI current

Past
95 E420
87 300D Turbo 5spd
90 300TE
83 300SD
85 300TD
92 400E
85 190D

Thanks for the link; good to know someone else who's not very experienced managed to do it without too much difficulty.

I don't have a transmission jack, but have a range of different jacks and accept I'll need patience and ingenuity to get it to work (I like the idea of using boards as in the link).

The 'new' trans I have is a 722.309 (which from a thread I found on here was used on the 280E, 280CE, and 280TE which figures as it was from a 280TE.

I'm wondering whether to remove the engine as well and give it a freshen up but it's probably best to get the replacement trans in and check it out before I get carried away. I'd have to hire an engine hoist as well so I might leave that for a while.

Thanks for the help

Mike

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280CE auto in metallic blue (97k miles), bought as a project; converted to 230CE, hopefully ending up immaculate.

Sounds like you are doing the same thing I am. My parts come today. I'm replacing the B3 reverse clutch pack, front pump seal, rear seal, k1 spring kit, shifter plastic knuckles, and the B2 piston while the transmission is out...BUT

I was underneath the car last night the survey the situation and PB blaster some rusty bolts and nuts. And YES ...those top 2-3 tranny bolts seems impossible to get at. So ...let me get this straight. I got a tranny jack (Harbor Freight). After disconnecting all the stuff (cooling lines, wiring, dipstick, ect), I will support the transmission with the jack and take off the transmission mount and off the flex plate. When I lower the jack holding up the tranny...will it drop at an angle (some say 6-8 inches) so I can get about 5 feet of extensions to get at those top bolts? I some say to jack the engine too to tilt it. Does this sound right? I have an electric 1/2" impact wrench I can use to torque those suckers off. When I'm underneath the car, head pointed to the rear, to the right of the transmission are the 2 catalytic pipes...do I need to remove these still after the tranny is tilted? I really don't want the take off the muffler/cat but doesn't seem to be enough space to get at those top (even side bolts passenger side).


I'll be lurking around until I make the plunge this weekend