Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help




Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum > Technical Information and Support > Tech Help

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 02-04-2002, 01:23 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Saugus, CA USA
Posts: 1,989
1st time brake fluid change

I'm doing the brake fluid change excercise for the first time on my 190e. Is there anything special I have to do cause of the ABS? And what kind of brake fluid do I use. I use Castrol GTLMA DOT 4. All references are to use MB stuff.

TIA
__________________
5 speed '91 190E 2.6 320,000 mi. (new car, fast, smooth as silk six, couldn't find any more Peugeots)
5 speed '85 Peugeot 505 2.5l Turbo Diesel 266,000 mi. (old car, fast for a diesel, had 2 others)
5 speed '01 Jetta V6 (new wifes car, pretty quick)
5 speed '85 Peugeot 505 2.2l Turbo Gas 197,000 mi. (wifes car, faster, sadly gone just short of 200k )
5 speed '83 Yamaha 750 Maxim 14,000 mi. (fastest)
0 speed 4' x 8' 1800 lb Harbor Freight utility trailer (only as fast as what's pulling it)
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 02-04-2002, 01:59 PM
Jim's500E's Avatar
Large Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Manchester, Connecticut
Posts: 1,325
I don't think so, my 190E 2.6 was easy...should be straight forward to change the fluid. Are you using the one-man pressure bleeder? They do work awesome. And that Castrol is better than average fluid; also ATE Super Blue is nice stuff...I put that in my 500E and it made the brake feel noticeable firmer. Micheal turned me on to the Castrol and I put it into our Volvo 850 GLT. Also nicer than stock stuff.
Of course, MB wants you to use their OEM stuff, which is also good for most all driving conditions....can't be wrong if you did use it. Don't get any on the paint or your hands though...nasty little viscous chemical compound. You probably knew that already...
__________________
Jim

1992 500E
2007 CLK63
2003 Audi RS6
2001 Audi allroad
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 02-04-2002, 02:51 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Northern New Jersey
Posts: 148
I ve used the EZ Bleeder several times and it make the job easy. It s about $40. It pressurizes the system so you only have to open bleeder from each wheel until you see clean fluid.
__________________
98 E430(sport), 99 ML 320 (sold) , 05 C 230(sport) Mark
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 02-05-2002, 12:44 AM
MBWayne
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Question

Could someone tell me where the best place to buy the one person brake bleeder? Also, how about buying a Mitivac? It would be nice if it was on the west coast, but for the right price I am willing to pay for shipping,


Thanks,
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 02-05-2002, 01:00 AM
MikeTangas's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: So. Cal
Posts: 4,430
For $12-$18 you can build you own. For directions on "how-to", click here . Works like a champ.
__________________
Mike Tangas
'73 280SEL 4.5 (9/72)- RIP
Only 8,173 units built from 5/71 thru 11/72

'02 CLK320 Cabriolet - wifey's mid-life crisis

2012 VW Jetta Sportwagon TDI...at least its a diesel

Non illegitemae carborundum.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 02-05-2002, 01:03 AM
MBWayne
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Thanks Mike!
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 02-05-2002, 05:41 PM
Jim's500E's Avatar
Large Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Manchester, Connecticut
Posts: 1,325
You can also buy them with the pressure gauge (nice to have)from an ad in European Car or The STAR for like $45. If you want, I'll get the number...Sorry, I don't have an issue in front of me right now. Let me know.
__________________
Jim

1992 500E
2007 CLK63
2003 Audi RS6
2001 Audi allroad
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 02-05-2002, 06:14 PM
sixto's Avatar
smoke gets in your eyes
 
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 19,743
Check out http://www.928.cc/Brakes.htm#Power Bleeder.

Seems like a good price. When I asked if it will fit an MB reservoir, which I know it will, they said they only sell this product to Porsche owners at this time. Someone on the forum graciously offered his 928 VIN. I say we all buy one and reference the same VIN

http://www.motiveproducts.com/ is the manufacturer who offers the same thing for $5 more.

Sixto
91 300SE
81 300SD
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 02-05-2002, 06:21 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 90
I, too, want to bleed the brakes on my 500E, using ATE Pro Blue or the Castrol brake fluid and install a set of braided stainless steel brake lines. Is this an easy DIY job, or do I need to worry about air in the lines, screwing up the ABS, etc.? The Power Bleeder from Motive Products looks nifty, and I don't think $45 is too pricey. Any advice from the pro's on this subject?

Kirk
1992 500E
Pearl black/gray
53K miles
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 02-06-2002, 08:07 AM
Michael's Avatar
Veteran
 
Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: CT, USA
Posts: 2,699
I'm not a pro, but I've done what you propose to a 500E. Do I qualify??

Before you pressurize the system, simply replace the brake lines....I strongly suggest you allow penetrant to work on the conections for a day or so. It was utterly simple. Then bleed the brakes as directed by the manufacturer of the bleeder you buy, which essentially involves pressurizing the system and bleeding the furthest wheel from the master cylinder first (RR,LR,RF,LF). I like to swap between blue and yellow fluid-makes it readily apparent when the old stuff is gone
__________________
"If everything seems under control, you're simply not going fast enough" --Mario Andretti

Michael
1995 E500 street car
1986 Porsche 944 Turbo S track car
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 02-06-2002, 12:07 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Saugus, CA USA
Posts: 1,989
I need to change my front brake pads too. Which should I do first, change pads or change fluid?
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 02-06-2002, 12:14 PM
MikeTangas's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: So. Cal
Posts: 4,430
Change the pads, then the fluid. Crack the bleeder on the caliper to assist in pressing the piston back in. Working in that order, you will only lose old fluid rather than the new stuff. The flush and bleed later will take care of any air in the system.
__________________
Mike Tangas
'73 280SEL 4.5 (9/72)- RIP
Only 8,173 units built from 5/71 thru 11/72

'02 CLK320 Cabriolet - wifey's mid-life crisis

2012 VW Jetta Sportwagon TDI...at least its a diesel

Non illegitemae carborundum.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 02-06-2002, 12:26 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 90
Thanks, all

...for the help. Michael, I guess I consider anyone who has done this more than once a "pro," but words of advice coming from you carry extra weight--your reputation on this board precedes you! Thanks again.

Kirk
1992 500E
Pearl black/gray
53K miles
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 02-06-2002, 12:51 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 29
Bleeding Brakes

Might also check speedbleeder.com. They sell a bleeder screw with a ball check valve that, when you crack the screw half a turn, release brake fluid / air when pedal is depressed. When pedal is released, the check valve closes so no air reenters the system. I put them on all 4 corners when I did mine, and they work great. You can put a piece of tubing (which they sell) over the screw to direct the fluid to a container for collection. I turned the bottle of brake fluid upside down in the reservoir (with a towel around the reservoir while flipping it over) and it worked like a bottled water machine. As I pumped the brakes and the fluid in the reservoir dropped, fluid from the bottle filled it back up to the correct level without overflowing.

Don
__________________
Don Drake

1990 300E 125k Miles
1994 S420 100k Miles
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 02-06-2002, 04:02 PM
Michael's Avatar
Veteran
 
Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: CT, USA
Posts: 2,699
With ALL SORTS of due respect to Mike Tangas (the man's afraid of NOTHING), I strongly disagree with his suggestion that you crack the bleeder loose. Because if for whatever reason you ease off on the pressure on one of those 4 caliper pistons in there, and one of those pistons moves ever-so-slightly in its bore, then it would be possible to ingest debris or air through the open bleeder. If the pistons are difficult to depress, then there are other issues like either a bad caliper or master cylinder problem, both of which are highly unlikely.

How I do it is thus: Loosen brake reservoir cap, and wrap a thick rag around its perimeter just in case the fluid overflows (keep a close eye-it's corrosive). Now, remove the pins that hold the pads. Grab a large channel-lock pliers and squeeze the center of the pad backing(between the 2 pistons) into the caliper, compressing the pistons into their bores. Insert the new pad. Repeat for opposite side. Re-install pins, and you're done installing the pads on that side of the car. Repeat for opposite side. Now, remember that there's play in the system at that point; slowly pump the brake pedal repeatedly until you get a firm pedal. Do NOT push pedal all the way to the floor; halfway is fine and serves this purpose.

Good luck.
__________________
"If everything seems under control, you're simply not going fast enough" --Mario Andretti

Michael
1995 E500 street car
1986 Porsche 944 Turbo S track car
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
1st time coolant change Jim Anderson Tech Help 7 11-09-2001 07:10 PM
89 300E auto trans - time to change fluid yambrovich Tech Help 11 12-07-2000 04:35 PM
E320 Brake Fluid Change Procedure cpiad Tech Help 1 08-05-1999 11:01 PM
Brake Fluid Change ken juul Tech Help 2 03-15-1999 11:21 PM



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:38 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2011 Pelican Parts - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page