|
|
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
722.358
I started to take apart my spare 722.358 tranny today, I dont know its history, but when I drained the fluid it was very dark. So I plan on rebuilding it, I want to get the clutches out to see how bad they are but I cant get the drum out. Do I need to remove something else before I get them out? I guess the K1 piston has to come out?
Last edited by 04 Diesel; 01-11-2012 at 11:00 PM. |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
I got it out, and yes the K1 piston needs to come out. More to come.
|
#3
|
|||
|
|||
More pictures
I will keep the pictures coming as I go.
|
#4
|
||||
|
||||
Cool pics
__________________
I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look. '85 300SD 245k '87 300SDL 251k '90 300SEL 326k Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford. Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG] |
#5
|
||||
|
||||
As you pull it to bits keep hold of any shims you find. Bag and tag as you go. Good luck.
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#6
|
||||
|
||||
Good job and please keep pics coming through the teardown. Does the drum looked burned to ya'll?
__________________
Jim |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
Yes it does, is that a problem. This the first time I have seen the inside of a tranny and Im not sure what to look for.
|
#8
|
|||
|
|||
I remember pulling mine at about 160k, and you could still see the writing on the band material. Don't really remember how the drum surface looked, but I think it must have been fine since the band looked so new.
The fun really begins when you press the B1 piston cover back in. That little spring that jumped out so easily is a bear to hold in while you install the c clamp. They make a tool, but you can fab a lever with a piece of metal or a long wrench - screw a bolt into the nearby hole in the case as a fulcrum point. You'll see. Do you have a good 722 manual? After much research, I have the best one I think, Bestell-NR, or something like that. I found it here in the archives, but don't remember exactly where. If you need a copy, PM me with you email address I will try to forward it directly to you - probably couldn't figure out how to load it on the forum (Oldtimers' disease). DG |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
Yeah, you need a manual. It doesn't go back together as easy as it comes apart...
__________________
80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??) |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
I guess that this is not good? I plan on replacing the friction discs but the metal discs that go on each side of the discs, can I clean these up? Maybe with some steel wool or something like that?
|
#11
|
||||
|
||||
Go easy on steel wool and abrasives - you need to retain a nice flat surface on those parts.
If you look in the manual there's a limit for the thickness. Did you manage to get one?
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#12
|
|||
|
|||
Yes I have a manual now, I will be very carefull with the steel wool.
|
#13
|
|||
|
|||
Ok, I need some help here. What would be my next step? Can I start to take the tail end apart? What needs to be replaced? Should I replace the K1 piston? What else needs to be replaced besides the friction discs and the seals? How about the valve body? Do I need to take the valve body out before I go any further?
|
#14
|
|||
|
|||
Ok, did some more reading tonight. Rebuild is basically change all friction discs and all new seals. ??
|
#15
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
Cleaning Checking for wear / measuring for wear Replacing friction components - clutches and brake bands Checking bearings Rebuilding with correct gear set clearances Replacing seals (and not necessarily in that order!)
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
Bookmarks |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|