Mepeh,

Go to find out what the Chrysler gang is using for the NIAG(same as a 722.6) transmission?

I just stuffed my $1000 S500 with Valvoline MAX-Life tranny fluid approved for NIAG transmission. Any transmission fluid would have worked including water for my S500. The tranny fluid was never changed in all the 185k miles. Tranny works great..

I'll have to poke around the jeep forums for fluid.

Martin

I use Mobil One syn. ATF works fine

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1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran, deutschland deutschland uber alles uber alles in der welt

I called the dealer and inquired about using the MB 134 ATF in the 722.6 transmissions and that is what they use. Wonder if they have seen an increased failure rate after putting this fluid in these transmissions.

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Jim

The Fuchs 236.10 ATF is still available online. Pelican Parts has the 4 liter bottle for less than $10/l with free shipping(?). You can also get the MB labelled 1 liter containers for a few dollars more. Probably subject to whats left on the shelf.

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Good luck.






1998 E320 Wagon

found my problem. Cracked speed sensors

Took everything apart and about to reinstall the new parts.
No magnet in the pan and no covers on the solenoids.

Copy that, will get on it.

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Click here to see the items I have up for auction at EBay

Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold)

All in all, the task was pretty easy and minimal tools were required.

So far, I replaced:
Conductor Plate
Pressure Spring
Sonnax Overhaul Valve Kit (all 3 Valves)
And Swapped 4-5 Solenoids with 2-3


The big plastic caps that i have missing on the conductor plate are to keep the metal shavings away from the solenoid contact points.
Waiting for the Magnet, Conductor Plate Covers (Thanks Gilly)

In my search for solenoids, i acquired 10 solenoids from a W210 (different part number from what i have) So if anyone wants them i can sell them at 20$ a piece. I'll get the part number if someone is interested.

http://www.startekinfo.com/manual/volumes/cd1/2_3/p23.pdf

Here's a nice pdf on all the resistance for the solenoids. I know I've been looking for this info for a while

You can check the resistance at the TCU connector, no need to pull the pan

I'm getting a bit cornfused.

I bought some MBZ ATF from an ebay seller for $12/ltr. Part number is A001989680313.
The front of the bottle says "ATF 134". On the back label is "Sheet 236.14".

I have 1999 and 2000 C280 and 2000 C230K. So I should NOT use this fluid in these cars?

BTW, went by a NAPA store for some Zerex G05, and they had Febi ATF, back label had 236.10, for $11.50/ltr.

Got the plastic covers for the conductor plate and the magnet for the pan today THANKS GILLY

I only wanted to torque the valve body to the transmission and finish the rest tomorrow. (Can't find my 7mm Socket for the conductor plate plug adapter).
The plastic covers cover the solenoids pretty well and i think they will do a good job at keeping the metal fillings away from the contact points.

Not sure where the magnet needs to go. I assume it doesn't matter as long as it's on the flat side of the pan, away from the filter

Also need to mention that the fluid i got out of the transmission looked very healthy, except that it was dark. And my transmission doesn't have the drain bolt for the torque converter.

Please post your comments about C3 diagnostic tool when you've used it. Thanks.

__________________
Good luck.






1998 E320 Wagon

There's good news and bad news

The good news is that it was delivered super fast (next day after shipping from hong kong to LA). I was able to install on my laptop without issues. Boots a lot quicker than the BMW applications i have. DAS connected to the car and was able to diagnose and reset. The quality of the multiplexer is great and cables are "military" grade

Bad news is that besides DAS, i got Xentry, WIS, ASRA , EPC, Finder and MB Media applications.

Xentry errors on startup and says the registration key is invalid.

I can work on my car with DAS only, but i was expecting everything to work right. The seller i purchased the system from is on my skype list. So we tried to troubleshoot what was wrong last Friday (Saturday in China)
He sent me a few different keys (253 characters long that can't be pasted, you need to manually input them) So after i spent the rest of the night till about 1am local, we decided he will call the "factory" and get a new key for the Xentry.

It's been a week and nothing. I plan on opening a chargeback with my credit card company. In fact, i left him alone all week and didn't say anything just to see what kind of support i would get. So today, i should get the refund (or whatever it takes with the bank to process).

I will be done with the transmission today, and i know i have to delete the transmission errors and i'll be able to achieve that with DAS. But i'm not 100% satisfied.

Sorry to here that. I was hoping for better news since I was considering buying one. Your experience is somewhat the same as the $99 multiplexer which included a pirated copy of Carsoft 7.4. Oh well back to the drawing board...

__________________
Good luck.






1998 E320 Wagon

My Transmission refresh project is completed.

It shifts like no other mercedes i've ever owned. Going in reverse is 0 shake. Shifting from 1st -2nd is just unbelievable. I mean i need to observe the needle on the tachometer to realize that it actually shifts.

I think swapping the solenoids and overlap valves did the trick.
My pressure spring looked great and i only replaced it for the peace of mind. It looked and felt exactly like the new one.

I've been thinking about taking pictures as i go, but it's so simple and straight forward that pictures are really unnecessary. I think it's as easy as inspecting the crankshaft bearings. It requires attention but it's all about taking the oil pan out

I did it in my own garage on Jackstands and had good lightening
The Valve Body is a little heavy, i think about 12lbs. So if you're working under the car by yourself, you need to use the elbow to support it and remove the bolts slowly.

The other thing to mention is don't place the magnet under the filter, it will attract the filter and you'll have to reposition again.

For those that have the 2nd Gear Limp Mode, remember that you need to clear the codes in the EGS after you completed this refresh. Otherwise you'll think that your work was in vain.

I used 5.5 liters of Fluid and i'll check the level tomorrow to make sure it's fine.

Took it to the freeway and was cruising at 75mph @ ~1900rpms
Reverse or any other gear ingage is just amazing. I was so excited i took my wife for a ride
(of course she didn't get it and only complained that i didn't recycle the bottles i have in the trunk)

If anyone has any questions, feel free to ask.

First Part - removing the valve body

1. Disconnect Battery (f*ck it, i decided to listen to the radio as i work)
2. Use a Torx tool to remove the Drain Bolt.
3. Drain the fluid. (It really doesn't matter if your engine is cold or warm, I prefer working on a cold engine)
4. Remove the Metal Cover that protects the Wiring Harness Adapter - 1 Torx Bolt (Same as the drain Bolt)
5. Unplug the Wiring Harness (Rotate the 'white' plastic clip counter clock wise and the connector will come out)
6. Remove the Harness Adapter - You need a 7mm socket to unscrew the bolt that's deep inside the adapter. You will need to replace this adapter due to the common worn seals so it will help you get an idea where the bolt is (it's impossible to see it under the car and there's a risk you'll damage the pins if you have no clue what you're looking for)
7. Remove all the bolts for the oil pan - Watch out for remainings of fluid coming out of the loose pan
8. Remove the Valve Body - Same Torx tool as the pan and drain bolt. - The volve body is not very light so use extra care when you do it. - Again, watch for fluid coming down in your eyes.
9. After you removed the Valve Body, You will place it on your work bench. And this is where the fun begins.

Second Part - refreshing the Valve Body
1. Remove the 3 bolts that hold the solenoid clips - same torx as all the other bolts (love it)
2. Remove the solenoids - just shake them back and forth and they will come out
3. Remove the Conductor Plate - there's a fe clips on the side that hold it - don't be afraid to break them, you will have to install a new conductor plate either way
4. Ater the conductor plate was removed, you'll have the bare valve body to replace the pressure spring and the overlap valves

The master overlap valve kit comes with instructions and pictures so i won't describe that
here's a pictre


The Valve Pressure Spring is under one of the metal plates that needs to come out - very easy


Remember to check the Solenoids for resistance and see if they match the specifications
It is advisable to swap the lower 2 solenoids (2-3 gear) with the upper solenoids (4-5) this way you'll have less worn solenoids where you need them the most.

Reinstalling is the reverse of the above, except you need to be careful to match the shifter lever with the plastic clip on the valve body.

I didn't have the drain bolt on the torque converter. So i filled with 5.5 liters of Fuchs Fluid.

Thank you for sharing your experience. Glad the Sonnax parts worked well.

Martin