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  #1  
Old 03-06-2002, 10:59 PM
iodyn
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Separating intake manifold from head, how much is necessary?

I guess my question is, what is the least I have to unbolt to separate the intake from the head to remove head to change head gasket on an M103?



The CD manual article (on removing and installing intake manifold, replacing gasket) asks you to remove the mixture control unit with air guide housing, remove plastic rail for engine wiring harness, remove start valve, disconnect bowden cable and take off supporting bracket for intake manifold (among other small things too long to mention)?

Is all this necessary? Article never even mentions removing the 5 bolts that run across the manifold -- is this a given? To get to the 3rd bolt you have to remove the start valve -- removing it for any other reason I wouldn't understand why...

TIA for any insight,

JohnB
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  #2  
Old 03-06-2002, 11:22 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Baton Rouge
Posts: 485
The easiest way to seperate intake from head, loosen bypass hose, remove cold start injector (replace gasket) , remove hose from idle speed air valve ( be careful) . remove all bolts from intake manifold , last one will be the nut where the cold start injector is. After you remove the nut the intake should loosen easily, it will not move a whole lot maybe 1/2 inch or so. Make sure you time it correctly and remove the pin where the chain runs through the rail before removing head. I always use new head bolts regardless .Make sure you clean headbolt threads in block very well , also apply a small amount of oil to the head bolts upon installation ( these bolts are stretch bolts ). If you are going to use a sealant on the upper cover mating surface I recommend permatex gray. I use it on every timing cover reseal I have done and never had any leaks.Another thing to think about is if you have the head off you might wanna think about resealing lower timing cover while you are that far.
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  #3  
Old 03-06-2002, 11:39 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 326
A quick scan through my 124 CD revealed that MB wants you to leave the intake on the head when removing. Thats why you didn't see any removal instructions for the intake.
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  #4  
Old 03-06-2002, 11:42 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2001
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Thats the hard way to do it. Sometimes its best not to go by the book but by experience. Just my 2 cents
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  #5  
Old 03-07-2002, 12:04 AM
dlswnfrd
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Dynamite and the Intake Manifold

Brother of The Benz,
Do yourself a favor and do as the Shop Manuals suggests!
Remove the cylinder head and intake manifold as a unit.
It' much easier if you just follow the instructions as noted in the manual.
Happy Trails Beep Beep from Donald The Spiderman in Houston!!!
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  #6  
Old 03-07-2002, 01:00 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: seattle, wa
Posts: 87
do yourself a favor and don't leave the intake on with removal. remove intake bolts, support bracket and bypass and the other small obvious connectors. all you need is a 1/2 inch and it will come out like butter. more importantly make sure you mark the timing advance befor you remove the left cam gear and that it lines up with your marks when putting back together. you can also save a little time by putting a wedge where the tensioner guide is so it won't ratchet foward. then you don't need to remove air pump to reset it...good luck ....Paul
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  #7  
Old 03-07-2002, 01:03 AM
iodyn
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Thanks for the prompt replies..

So in essence the shop manual wants the head and intake off together, then taken apart once off for machine shop purposes? I'd rather go from 1-3 rather than 1-2-3, if at all possible.

One other question please... is their a trick to pulling off the fan clutch pulley after removing the fan clutch? I removed the 4 bolts on its face and thought it would jimmy off after that, but no luck. Need to remove it to reseal the timing chain cover as euro 287 suggested.

Thanks again!

JohnB
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  #8  
Old 03-07-2002, 02:30 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: California
Posts: 324
iodyn:

I've had the fan clutch pulley off of my 103 before and there was no trick. It might be stuck on the centering hub. Once you get it off, you might scrub the surfaces with some 600 grit or a small wire brush and put some grease on it for next time.

Can you wobble it at all and work it off? Worst case, if you start beating on it and damage the bearing, the bracket/bearing is about $100.
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  #9  
Old 03-07-2002, 04:25 PM
dlswnfrd
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If The Shoe Fits

Brother of the Benz,
No two mechanics work the same.
If one feels comfortable going from 1-3-2 or 1-2-3 the end will be the same.
Do as you wish and the job will be as good as the other persons technique.
Enjoy in what you are doing in whatever fashion it may be!
Happy Trails Beep Beep from The Spiderman in Houston!!!
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