So I bought a wrecked 95 e320 wagon with a good tranny. I've got the tranny supported, drained, all vacuum and electrical disconnected, all torque converter bolts out (6)' all housing bolts out (is there one above the starter on the driver side? I took the two out that hold the starter on and now that's in my hand) the tranny mount is out. I figure at this point the only thing holding on is either a bolt that I'll have to dismantle the engine intake to get to, or its just the gasket feeling extra strong from time and pressure.

the FSM just says "detach transmission". Thanks for the that Von Helmut.

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77' 300D, "Cartman" SOLD @ 150K (didn't know what I had)
83' 300SD, "The Superdon" 325k+ @ 28mpg
95 E320 wagon, "Millennium Falcon" 231k+ @ 24 Mpg
95 E300D, "Sherley" 308k @ 33.69 Mpg, currently anticipating a head
99 Suzuki Intruder "Trudy" @ 45 mpg

could be stuck a little beat with soft hammer.

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1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran

Russian EPC says there are 8 screws holding the transmission to the engine. How many have you removed?

There shouldn't be a gasket fitted between transmission and engine.

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

maybe this helps (see lso the diagram on p9)

http://www.w124performance.com/docs/mb/W124/trans_removal.pdf

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Prost!

If its still mated to the engine housing, there is still a bolt left

Just when you think you have them all out, there is still one more in a worse spot to reach. Soon as they are out, it should shift back without any issue. Getting it completely free may need some wiggling, but it will go a few inches back easy.

Go ahead and make it easy on yourself (if you haven't already) and raise the oil pan with a jack and some wood to drop the transmission down. It will also save you on reinstall too.

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2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k
2008 Black Mercedes E350 4Matic Sport - 131k
2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k
2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k

Well, if there is a bolt left, I'll have to pull the intake to get to it. I'll check this evening and see what I can see when I'm not battle weary from all the other parts

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77' 300D, "Cartman" SOLD @ 150K (didn't know what I had)
83' 300SD, "The Superdon" 325k+ @ 28mpg
95 E320 wagon, "Millennium Falcon" 231k+ @ 24 Mpg
95 E300D, "Sherley" 308k @ 33.69 Mpg, currently anticipating a head
99 Suzuki Intruder "Trudy" @ 45 mpg

That bolt is the one that is usually a problem, Most people undo the engine mount bolts and raise the engine hence lowering the gearbox to get a more clear access to the bolt and then use really long extensions to undo it.

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2012 BMW X5 (Beef + Granite suspension model)

1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017)
2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017)

You don't need to remove the intake. Raise the engine (I didn't remove engine mounts although it may make it even easier) and get it with long extensions. It's the only way.

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2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k
2008 Black Mercedes E350 4Matic Sport - 131k
2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k
2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k

So let it be written, so let it be done. Raising the engine is easy. Long extension from above the car or below it?

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77' 300D, "Cartman" SOLD @ 150K (didn't know what I had)
83' 300SD, "The Superdon" 325k+ @ 28mpg
95 E320 wagon, "Millennium Falcon" 231k+ @ 24 Mpg
95 E300D, "Sherley" 308k @ 33.69 Mpg, currently anticipating a head
99 Suzuki Intruder "Trudy" @ 45 mpg

Below. When we say long extension, we mean like 3 of them...

You do it above the transmission when its lowered down a little. Extensions need to reach all the way from the flex disk to the bellhousing No other place will you have any torque or space to do it. Best of luck! You are on the last stretch for removal now. Once that's out, it should be easy to remove. (make sure you undid all lines!)

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2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k
2008 Black Mercedes E350 4Matic Sport - 131k
2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k
2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k

I think I can get that far. I just want to make sure the third says "made in the USA". First two I know say that.

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77' 300D, "Cartman" SOLD @ 150K (didn't know what I had)
83' 300SD, "The Superdon" 325k+ @ 28mpg
95 E320 wagon, "Millennium Falcon" 231k+ @ 24 Mpg
95 E300D, "Sherley" 308k @ 33.69 Mpg, currently anticipating a head
99 Suzuki Intruder "Trudy" @ 45 mpg

Last one I did; I think an E28, I spun the 24" 1/2" extension so the lettering wrapped around it. Make sure you use quality tools!

I've had some pretty good success using this ratchet in tight spots. You can twist the handle to take up slack and get good torque when you otherwise would not be able to. I'm not sure it it would help out with this particular final bolt, but it has come through for me on others.
3/8" Drive Speed Socket Wrench

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http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...aman/Fleet.jpg

Peach Parts W124.128 User Group.

80 280SL
85 300SD
87 300TD
92 300D 2.5 Turbo
92 300TE 4Matic

Now that would be a good picture to post!

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Its craftsman for me. I spent weeks researching the best tools. Craftsman is still made in the USA for the most part, and are honest when their tools aren't. So I just make sure it says USA on everything I buy....higher quality from there goes to Snap-on, and S&K. There are alot of tools still made in the USA, Sears just happens to be local and so if something breaks (which is usually doesn't) I can just go over and they will hand me another one.

On a side note, I have yet to be disappointed with any of the Kobalt hand tools from Lowe's, made in Taiwan, lifetime warranty, supposedly the same quality as craftsman. I bought 10mm and 8mm ratcheting box end wrenches from Lowe's for some carb work I was doing. They are Kobalt, and they are admittedly my favorite tools. I haven't found the craftsman equivalent.

outside of those two, I've broken pretty much all of my taiwan tools. I have a bucket of broken taiwan extensions, they will go with the great scrap metal trip at the end of this Tranny Adventure, along with the donor wagon body, after I have my way with the glass, interior and engine.

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77' 300D, "Cartman" SOLD @ 150K (didn't know what I had)
83' 300SD, "The Superdon" 325k+ @ 28mpg
95 E320 wagon, "Millennium Falcon" 231k+ @ 24 Mpg
95 E300D, "Sherley" 308k @ 33.69 Mpg, currently anticipating a head
99 Suzuki Intruder "Trudy" @ 45 mpg