This weekend ended up being egr mania. I took it off to inspect/clean. Turns out, when I apply vacuum it "works" but leaks down quickly. I put it back on and stripped the thread in the header. That was a blast. Thread chaser did fix it.

So long story short, new egr on the way.

Egr valve arrived. Found oem new for $109 shipped.

This stripped thread is turning into a bigger problem. After fighting with it I managed to get about 15 lbs of torque on it. If I put any more it will probably completely wipe the threads out. I can't feel or hear exhaust gas coming out of it, so it is more or less sealed up for now

What's a good permanent solution? Next bolt size up and rethread with tap?

Mostly, as above, the wire needs to be upgraded, also, you need to swap your old pulley in the bigger alt. great upgrade especially if you have an upgraded stereo system.

I swear sometimes my idle would fluctuate due to loss of electric when I was blasting the stereo. Just a theory........

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Eugene

10 E63 AMG
93 300te 4matic
07 BMW X3
14 Ford F-150 Fx2

I was under the impression my 1987 260e when new had non resister plugs with the risistance built into the plug connector.

I got the non-resistor densos mentioned above. I got the others thinking pelican would have the correct ones listed. Although, with the $1000s in orders I've placed here that would be the only complaint I have.

New spark plugs in. The engine is running a touch smoother. I gapped to 1.0 and torqued to 18 ft lbs.

Euro headlights and bilstein touring shocks arriving Friday.

Now just to troubleshoot the bouncy idle at hot restart and random hesitation when warm. I got the hf master inection test kit. My plan is to test inline at the fuel filter to verify pressure from the fuel pumps. Then at the fuel distributor test port (?) to test the fuel pressure regulator. Any tips or corrections to my testing strategy?

Yep this is how all the MB's of this era were. No resistor in spark plug. Resistor is in plug connector/wire.

I thought the Denso T20EPU's were pre-gapped?

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Cruise Control not working? Send me PM or email (jamesdean59@gmail.com). I might be able to help out.
Check here for compatibility, diagnostics, and availability!

(4/11/2020: Hi Everyone! I am still taking orders and replying to emails/PMs/etc, I appreciate your patience in these crazy times. Stay safe and healthy!)


82 300SD 145k
89 420SEL 210k
89 560SEL 118k
90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010
90 560SEL 154k
91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k
93 190E 3.0 235k
93 300E 195k

They came gapped at 0.6. Alldata called for 0.8. Everything I have read says mb shops are gapping them at 1.0.

Head ready for a rebuild. It was advertised to me as in excellent condition. I'm just planning to do the seals and repaint the valve cover. I'm going to take it to a machine shop to have it planed and checked for cracks. While it's sitting there... Any suggestions?

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Just changed the coil out with a TPI coil. No more shudder at take off and runs much smoother.

Ok then... When I removed the breather from the air cleaner found oil mixed with coolant all up in that tube. Intake manifold leak? How dire is it? Hadn't planned to to the head until next month while I research.

After a long break I'm back in the saddle. I pulled the fender off to replace the charcoal canister with a new one. I suspected something was up based on symptoms. Turns out all the hoses going to it are missing... Blah

I was wondering where you went. Did you ever get the tranny reverse problem fixed? And how about the head gasket?

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1990 190E 3.0L

The tranny is still messed up. I'm still weighing my options on low mileage junkyard pull vs $2000 rebuilt. I just got the last tool I need (chain hoist) for the head gasket.

Yesterday I did the front sway bar bushings and charcoal canister. Today is going to be new fuel injectors, air intake boot, and fuel filter. I may do the idle arm bushing if time allows.

I've been daily driving it since January without doing any work to it. It's been kind nice.

Idler arm done. Some notes...

To get the bolt out, you can either remove the exhaust (ouch) or remove the top bolt from the right engine mount and jack the engine up. I went for the second option. That top engine mount is a menace. I used a box wrench, and put it back on the same way "gutentite". Not sure how you'd get something in there to torque it to spec.

Just installed my state registration renewal sticker. That puts me at the one year mark. She's running and driving so much better than day one. I'm starting to feel a little beaten down. But I do feel I'm getting close to resolving mechanical issues so I can pretty her up.

I've been spending about $200/mo on tools/parts. Not to mention cheap insurance. Still coming out on top over the $550/mo car payment I used to have. Plus I traded in my rc car racing hobby to take this on. So let's add another $200/mo saved there. I find car work more technically rewarding than rc racing but less social. May look into a local club for Mercedes gossip and pitchers.