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#1
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transmission cooling line leaking
I discovered that the left cooling line for the transmission has a leak. Here's the problem though, it's not the rubber hose, it's the hard line that runs along the oil pan and back to the trans. There is a clamp that holds the line in place and there is a rubber gromet that protects the line. Well, after 19 years the rubber fell apart and slowly and definetly surely, the vibration of the clamp has worn a hole into the line. Now, I have checked every online outfit for this line and no luck. I call it a cooling line, but all the online outfits, including "Fastlane", list only the rubber portion that goes from this hard line to the radiator.
The leak isn't really pissing, it just drips. However, when I lift the line up a little it leaks real steady, so I know that is where the problem is. I checked this with the engine off. With the engine running it drips also, I didn't try to move the line while the engine was idling. Any tips on where to get this hard line, or would it be possible to repair this line.
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1999 MB SL500 (110,000 mi) 2004 Volvo V70 2.5T (220,000 mi) 2014 Tesla Model S 85 (136,000 mi) MBCA member |
#2
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I just rebuilt my engine and had to handle the metal trans cooler lines probably like yours (no info on your M-B year or model). The lines are a soft metal and bend fairly easy - I would think that brazing would be a suitable repair and permanent (perhaps even really good epoxy) with a very good cleaning of the line to remove all grime and ATF before brazing. Or, a local junkyard would have them. I'd bet M-B would want at least $150 for the line if not two or three times more. I replaced the grommets (mine were like hard plastic and broke into pieces when handled) and the new ones were soft and pliable. M-B had them for $1.22 each, but had to order them from a regional location (Dallas).
Good Luck! Tom
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America: Land of the Free! 1977 300D: 300,000+ miles American Honda: Factory Trained Technician & Honor Grad. Formerly: Shop Foreman; Technical Advisor to Am. Honda; Supervisor of Maintenance largest tree care co. in US for offices in Tex. |
#3
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I think the breaker might be the easiest route Rick. The grommet was gone on the left side of the 4.5 too, to preserve the line as best I could I used a small piece of old radiator hose and fitted a rubber wrap. I think the clamp is secured to the block with a 5mm allen. It was a pain to fit the rubbar and the line through there, but now the line is protected, at least for a little while.
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Mike Tangas '73 280SEL 4.5 (9/72)- RIP Only 8,173 units built from 5/71 thru 11/72 '02 CLK320 Cabriolet - wifey's mid-life crisis 2012 VW Jetta Sportwagon TDI...at least its a diesel Non illegitemae carborundum. |
#4
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I was thinking that maybe I could fabricate a new line from some stock brake line. As for protecting the line from further chaffing, I would use a piece of rubber hose, slit it length-wise and wrap it around the line. The clamp is held in place by one of the oil pan bolts. Today I am going to take it over to my indy. and see what he says. I have never done any brazing, but LONG ago, in highschool I did some soldering on copper piping. I have a pipe cutter, so all I would need is a basic pipe bender and a tool to flare the ends.
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1999 MB SL500 (110,000 mi) 2004 Volvo V70 2.5T (220,000 mi) 2014 Tesla Model S 85 (136,000 mi) MBCA member |
#5
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I was thinking more along the lines of brazing the area where the leak is without cutting the line - provided the hole/crack is small enough as suggested by the amount of the leak. Just clean the leak area up and braze it (a professional welder may be the best person to do this). If the hole is too large, then cutting and flaring one end to fit over the other end and then brazing would work. Also, silver soldering could also work instead of brazing.
I thought about using an old inner tube to make grommets out of (I've used them for other components attached to the car - like the AC servo, very $$$ part). I went with the M-B grommets because they have shoulders on them to help hold them in the bracket and you do not want to tighten the bracket around the trans line such that it is tight enough to keep an inner tube from slipping out as I would think that may be too tight and cause another hole in the line if the inner tube slips out or rots away with age. My $0.02 worth. Good Luck! Tom
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America: Land of the Free! 1977 300D: 300,000+ miles American Honda: Factory Trained Technician & Honor Grad. Formerly: Shop Foreman; Technical Advisor to Am. Honda; Supervisor of Maintenance largest tree care co. in US for offices in Tex. |
#6
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JB weld works wonders for this sort of thing!
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Brandon 2008 S550 1957 Dodge D100 1967 VW Microbus 21 Window 2001 Suburban 2004 Beach cruiser bicycle -----------------GO DUKE!----------------- "It cannot be emphasized too strongly or too often that this great nation was founded not by religionists, but by Christians; not on religion, but on the Gospel of Jesus Christ. For that reason alone, people of other faiths have been afforded freedom of worship here." Patrick Henry 1776 |
#7
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The JB weld with the new grommets from the dealer will probably do the trick,but I'm disappointed in your lack of resourcefulness.Bein a retired Navyman I learned how to wander around a shipyard and ask for favors.You have a huge Air Force base at your dispossal.You need to check around for a fellow airman in the right shop and say:hey buddy, can you do me a favor? "I need this brazed."
Good luck, Peter
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Auto Zentral Ltd. |
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