Need some assistance in removing rear links, 124 wagon - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

lorainfurniture · #1 04-28-2014, 08:58 PM

I have a bad rr wheel bearing. I figured I would remove and replace the rear links while I'm there, as I need to take the hub to a shop to press out/in the new bearing.

I'm having a heck of a time reaching the link bolts. They are rusty, and seem to be extremely close to the body. Do I need to drop the subframe slightly?

I read the fsm, and It more or less shows the job being done with the subframe completely out of the car. I'm trying to avoid removing the subframe because I have a knack of replacing everything "while I'm there".

I don't really have the time to be redoing the entire rear subframe. Last time I did it it took me over a month in my spare time. I have a newborn in the house so I fear this time it will take 18 years to complete.

Guys, help me out and tell me the secret to changing a rear wheel bearing in one hour

OrangeGuy · #2 04-28-2014, 09:07 PM

I've done both sides on my 300 without dropping the subframe. It was a very tight fit, though. I didn't think it was going to work either. Dropping the front of the subframe really isn't a big deal, but in your case might be more of a chore because of rust. You just remove the two forward bolts (and slightly loosen but don't remove the rears) and it drops a few inches.

Soak all those puppies in PB Blaster, repeatedly, and you should be OK.

I just did my RR bearing back in August. Had a shop press the bearing in and out. You might want to do the other bushing that's in the knuckle, as its never going to get done otherwise and its fairly cheap <$30.

EDIT: Also this was on a sedan, not a wagon. So maybe the tolerances are too close back there? IDK...

lorainfurniture · #3 04-28-2014, 09:16 PM

I did it on my 300e a couple of years ago, and I don't remember struggling with it much. Then again, I dropped the whole thing and replaced everything.

I have a sneaking suspicion I might end up re doing the whole thing because I can't stand rusty stuff under my wagon and I plan to keep this one long term.

OrangeGuy · #4 04-28-2014, 09:19 PM

Nothing like fresh subframe bushings

OM603 · #5 04-28-2014, 09:59 PM

To do the bearing R&R with the hub in place and without fooling with the multi-links the SIR B90-M is the tool to get that done.

Break the axle nut free, jack the car up, remove the tire, hang the caliper out of the way, remove the rotor, remove the parking brake shoes, unbolt the axle from the differential, remove the axle nut and pull the axle out of the hub.

Using the B90, pull the hub, remove the C-clip, pull the bearing from the hub, install the new bearing, install C-clip, install hub into bearing, reinstall axle, nut, rotor, caliper, wheel, done.

Sir Tools B90 - YouTube

OrangeGuy · #6 04-29-2014, 12:37 AM

The B90 may work fine for a sedan. But the wagon uses the beefier rear bearings if I recall correctly, and it's not so elementary. It's also a very expensive tool. I bought a used hub online for $50 shipped which was cheaper than I could pull it myself for. I bought a FAG bearing kit for $50 and paid my mechanic $100 to R&R the bearing.

OM603 · #7 04-29-2014, 01:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OrangeGuy

The B90 may work fine for a sedan. But the wagon uses the beefier rear bearings if I recall correctly, and it's not so elementary. It's also a very expensive tool. I bought a used hub online for $50 shipped which was cheaper than I could pull it myself for. I bought a FAG bearing kit for $50 and paid my mechanic $100 to R&R the bearing.

The man was asking about how he could accomplish the task without going through the process you've described.

JamesDean · #8 04-29-2014, 11:29 AM

I did this in December on my 124 sedan. It was not that bad of a job. I didn't drop the subframe and was able to get all the associated links off without too much fuss. I might have had to angle grind one of the bolts.

Post up some pics?

lorainfurniture · #9 04-29-2014, 03:04 PM

Ill post some pics of the carnage when i get home. I need to get some grinding wheels to gring some bolts off.

I keep looking at the rusty brake lines, and I think. thats next.

JamesDean · #10 04-29-2014, 03:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lorainfurniture

Ill post some pics of the carnage when i get home. I need to get some grinding wheels to gring some bolts off.

I keep looking at the rusty brake lines, and I think. thats next.

Rusty brake lines? Hmmm I'm thinking maybe softlines should be replaces too..

Deerfield Precision

Deerfield Precision

Maybe? maybe?

lorainfurniture · #11 04-29-2014, 03:15 PM

omg why did you show me that...

JamesDean · #12 04-29-2014, 03:17 PM

Is pretty good stuff! Nicely made. Stainless steel braided lines with some kind of plastic coating on them. And price is pretty good!

I've got them on my 190E, 300D and 420SEL.

OrangeGuy · #13 04-29-2014, 07:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OM603

The man was asking about how he could accomplish the task without going through the process you've described.

The man is doing the same process I described. Pulling the knuckle/hub himself, having his mechanic press in te bearing, and he puts it back in himself. He simply wanted to know if he could get the links disconnected without dropping the subframe.

OM603 · #14 04-30-2014, 12:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OrangeGuy

The man is doing the same process I described. Pulling the knuckle/hub himself, having his mechanic press in te bearing, and he puts it back in himself. He simply wanted to know if he could get the links disconnected without dropping the subframe.

Quote:

Originally Posted by lorainfurniture

.......Guys, help me out and tell me the secret to changing a rear wheel bearing in one hour

it cost you $200 out of pocket plus the time and effort to remove the wheel carrier, the time and effort to take it to the mechanic, the time and effort to get it back from the mechanic, and then the time and effort to reinstall the wheel carrier back onto the car.

The tool costs about $300 and the bearing can be replaced in less that an hour maybe two if your slow and careful. None of the links need to be fooled with, and after the job is done the tool can be rented out or resold to recoup the cost of buying it. If one wanted they could do the bearing on the other side as well and in effect get an even great value.

As described by the OP he is having a difficult time dealing with the fasteners in order to disconnect the links at the required ends, and he hasn't even gotten to one where the bolt is seized inside the bushing yet!

OrangeGuy · #15 04-30-2014, 11:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OM603

it cost you $200 out of pocket plus the time and effort to remove the wheel carrier, the time and effort to take it to the mechanic, the time and effort to get it back from the mechanic, and then the time and effort to reinstall the wheel carrier back onto the car.

The tool costs about $300 and the bearing can be replaced in less that an hour maybe two if your slow and careful. None of the links need to be fooled with, and after the job is done the tool can be rented out or resold to recoup the cost of buying it. If one wanted they could do the bearing on the other side as well and in effect get an even great value.

As described by the OP he is having a difficult time dealing with the fasteners in order to disconnect the links at the required ends, and he hasn't even gotten to one where the bolt is seized inside the bushing yet!

The wagon uses double row bearings and the B90-M will not work, it works great for sedans though. There are plenty of threads confirming this. Your point is moot