Hello all,

I can't seem to find the thread on this, so I'll ask here. Has anyone done the rear sway bar R and R in a W124 as a do it yourself project? I have a few questions.

Does the drive shaft have to be disconnected to lower the subframe enough to snake out the bar?

Does the exhaust have to be disconnected or removed?

I have done the rear springs myself in the past, and have access to multiple jacks and stands, as well as a compressor and tools, so am willing to give this a shot.

Any experience and or advice would be appreciated.

Bob Johnston

__________________
Bob Johnston
03 E55
Comand/Nav/Bluetooth/Ipod added
Black/black
(Oh man, this car is sooooo fast.)

Okay, I'll reply to myself since I just finished the job in case it could help anyone else out.

Not a bad job at all if you have enough jacks and stands. No need to drop the driveshaft, but it does help to take one nut off the rear safety strap under the shaft, loosen the wire connection to the differential at each of it's grommet support points. I supported the rear control arms and disconnected the shocks, sway bar links, and even the pivot bolt and dropped the springs, carefully!. Then support the differential in the center on a jack, remove the 4 bolts that attach the subframe, and gradually carefully lower the whole rear diff/subframe assembly about 4 inches. After removing the bushing supports on the sway, it will snake out and the new one in.

Test drive of the E500 rear bar in my E420 comes tomorrow.

__________________
Bob Johnston
03 E55
Comand/Nav/Bluetooth/Ipod added
Black/black
(Oh man, this car is sooooo fast.)

Bob

Thanks for this thread and for your own reply! I will enjoy hearing the fruits of your labor.

Did you do a front bar as well?

Jeff

Yep, front E500 bar, E420 Euro sport OE springs all around, Bilstein HD struts, and 225/50/16 Yokohama AVS dB's on 7.5x16 late model E420 OEM replicas (5 holes). I posted some pictures in the other forum when I did everything except the rear bar. And now that's finished too. I am participating in a racing driving school sponsored by the local BMW club (choke!) in a week. Ready to roll.

__________________
Bob Johnston
03 E55
Comand/Nav/Bluetooth/Ipod added
Black/black
(Oh man, this car is sooooo fast.)

You said:

I supported the rear control arms and disconnected the shocks, sway bar links, and even the pivot bolt and dropped the springs, carefully!. Then support the differential in the center on a jack, remove the 4 bolts that attach the subframe, and gradually carefully lower the whole rear diff/subframe assembly about 4 inches.

Did you use one floor jack in all? In other words you went around with a floor jack and used it at each corner, supported the different parts and then used it to finally lower the differential?

I am considering do this, that is why I am being specific. I have four jackstands and a very good floor jack.

Jeff

I used 3 jacks, but I think that just made it a little more convenient (different sizes, and could do more at once. I think it could be done with one jack. I need to look under the car, as I think it might have been possible to do this without dropping the springs (but I think it was safer this way.)

Remove the plastic cover under the rear control arms. I jacked the car up under each rear control arm (under the spring perch) and put a jack stand under the jack pad under the rocker panel (chock the front wheels). Pulled each rear wheel. Support under the spring perch again and remove the lower strut bolt, then the pivot bolt where the control arm attaches to the subframe. I had to use a drift pin and hammer, and manipulate the jack level to get that bolt out. Slowly lower the jack and the spring will come free as the control arm drops down. Disconnect the sway bar ends and the bushing supports. Loosen the wire from the various grommets as it courses to the differential. Disconnect one side of the safety strap under the differential. (have to remove the fuel pump assembly cover to get at that. Then support the differential with a jack, loosen the 4 subframe mount bolts, and gradually lower the whole subframe, carefully watching the wire to the differential, the driveshaft, and the brake lines. After lowering it about 4 inches, the sway bar should snake out (move it forward over the front bar of the subframe to get it around the fuel tank line. Reverse to reinstall. Getting the control arm pivot bolts back in as the arm is supported with a jack under tension of the springs is a pain. Multiple jack position trial and error and a pry bar should get you there.

Good luck,
Bob

__________________
Bob Johnston
03 E55
Comand/Nav/Bluetooth/Ipod added
Black/black
(Oh man, this car is sooooo fast.)

Thanks Bob. The detail of your process was very helpful.

Jeff