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  #1  
Old 04-16-2002, 02:41 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Seattle Area
Posts: 373
W124 misc rattles/annoyances

Having now spent some serious quality time with the new E420 (and absolutely love it), I wanted to cull some experienced from you all regarding some little things.

First, steering column rattle. Sounds like it's coming from under the wheel on the inside of the car. Can't move the column around by hand, but going over bumps or 'washboarded' sections of interstate produce a noticeable (and annoying) metallic rattle. Any ideas?

Also the exterior door handles. One on the passenger side rear is loose and can be wiggled up and down. Where are the screw/bolts to tighten up this guy?

Lastly, I'm guessing from lack of use (previous ower put a whole 8k on car in three years), all doors except the driver's door open and shut with a metallic 'clank' instead of the well-dampened 'thud' we're all so fond of. Do they just need some lubricant? What kind? Lithium grease, graphite? Where to apply?

Thank you all in advance, couldn't find much in the archives....

Regards,
- Ryan
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'95 E420 - 'Shadowfax' 138kmi.
'92 Volvo 740Turbo Bard 193kmi
'74 240D - 'Ol' Green' 4spd Manual 104kmi. (sold )
'77 300D - 'Red' 223kmi (sold)
'75 240D - 'Bianca the Blue Bomber' (sold)
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  #2  
Old 04-17-2002, 08:23 PM
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lots of looks, no replys - is everyone as clueless as me?

thanks again,
- Ryan
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'95 E420 - 'Shadowfax' 138kmi.
'92 Volvo 740Turbo Bard 193kmi
'74 240D - 'Ol' Green' 4spd Manual 104kmi. (sold )
'77 300D - 'Red' 223kmi (sold)
'75 240D - 'Bianca the Blue Bomber' (sold)
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  #3  
Old 04-18-2002, 02:01 AM
haasman's Avatar
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Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: San Francisco, CA
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dieseldude-


I had to tighten the rear outside door handle on my '91 300E. Actually not too hard: You have to remove the inside door panel with remembering that after all the handles and hardware is removed to lift the panel up. Undeneath is the moisture barrier plastic. Peel gently as it will rip easily. Best to only move the section by the door handle. If I recall correctly, you should be able to see the forward bolt head and almost see the rear one. (it has been sometime since I did this). I want to say the bolts are 10mm and might require both an extension and maybe a swivel to reach them. Make sure the handle is centered in the door before tightening. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN. Firm and snug should do it.

I have had door closing issues as well. I have checked the striker plate to make sure it is closely aligned with the door latch. I have then used silicone paste that comes in a tube. Just a little on the stiker mounted on the car body. It has worked well.

Now ... the steeing column. I haven't a clue. I would start by lowering the under dash panel and seeing if there isn't anything loose. Also have you checked to make sure your under engine belly pan is attached firmly?

Hope these help.

Jeff
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  #4  
Old 07-04-2002, 12:05 AM
AddictedtoMB
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Steering Rattle

Did you figure out the steering rattle ? I think I have the same annoying problem. I bought the car at 40,000 miles and it had this problem then. I have driven it to 120,000 miles, but no one has seemed to know what it is, and I have asked at various repair shops over the years. I have had the bushing replaced and MB has attempted to correct, but it has never been fixed, and it really hasn't gotten any worse. The last time, they mentioned some major components inside the steering column that would bring the repair over $1,000. I'm not sure if this is correct.

As you described, it sounds like its close to the steering wheel, and although the steering column does not move around, the steering wheel will feel sloppy when moving it back and forth.
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  #5  
Old 07-04-2002, 02:18 AM
WRM WRM is offline
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Location: BURBANK CA
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YOUR POSSIBLE STEERING RATTLE COULD BE LOOSE SCREWS BEHIND THE AIR BAG.
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  #6  
Old 07-04-2002, 05:37 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,469
check the check straps, sometimes the balls get stuck. They are cheap enough where you should just replace them. i think that there is a thing in DIY on those.

What happens is they usually break the pin that goes into the body then it makes a loud pop which is really annoying.

Try this and other recomendations

Austin
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No Benzes in the stable at the moment, but itching for one again.

Former Mercedes in the Stable:
1983 300CD Turbo diesel 515k mi sold
1984 300CD Turbo Diesel 150 k mi sold
1982 300D Turbo Diesel 225 sold
1987 300D Turbo Diesel 255k mi sold
1988 300 CE AMG Hammer 15k mi sold
1986 300E Amg Hammer 88k mi sold
1992 500E 156k mi sold
etc.
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  #7  
Old 08-17-2002, 02:46 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Seattle Area
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Addicted -

I have not yet diagnosed the steering column rattle. I was beginning to think it was just a quirk of recirc. ball steering, but if I hit a speedbump/low curb at an angle (like on my driveway), it definitely rattles too much.

The rattle is also coming from further down the column for me to think it's the airbag screws. I've wanted to take the cowling off from under the steering wheel to see if anything was visible, but the beast is due for a couple other things at my mechanics, so I'll see what they can find and report back.

I'll run that check strap issue by my mech and see what he says - thanks for the suggestion omegabenz!

Regards,
- Ryan
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'95 E420 - 'Shadowfax' 138kmi.
'92 Volvo 740Turbo Bard 193kmi
'74 240D - 'Ol' Green' 4spd Manual 104kmi. (sold )
'77 300D - 'Red' 223kmi (sold)
'75 240D - 'Bianca the Blue Bomber' (sold)
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  #8  
Old 11-15-2002, 01:32 AM
rmasteller's Avatar
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Dieseldude,

Did you ever get the rattle fixed? I am seriously considering a '94 E420 with 55,000 miles for sale at an MB dealership right now. See the ever-growing thread in "Featured Cars" called "E420 Horror Stories".

This car has that same rattle, or tapping sound over bumps. Also, with the car moving or sitting still, you can slighly move the steering wheel back and forth and generate the same sound. It's kind of like turning a flat head screw driver in a slot that's too wide. It taps the sides as you rotate back and forth. Any ideas?

The sales guy said he rode with a technician to listen to the noise. Technician said, "It's probably nothing to worry about, but we'll look at it if you want us to." Darn right I want you to!

Thanks,
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www.mbca.org - www.sl113.org - www.ohio4x4.com
2006 Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon
1997 E300D
1966 230SL
1980 450SL (for sale!)
PAST: 2006 C230, 1994 E420, 1994 Neon, 1983 Celica GT, 1984 300ZX, 1976 Electra Limited, 1984 Honda Nighthawk 650, 1979 Suzuki PE175
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  #9  
Old 11-15-2002, 08:35 AM
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Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
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dieseldude

I noticed similar sound with doors on my 95 E420....I describe it as in between the "thud" and "clank" but it still is definitely the Mercedes bank vault sound. It does sound a little different from what I would hear on a 79 300SD I used to have but still the good solid sound....could be the later cars will sound a liitle different due to materials used, thicknesses, etc vs the older "tanks"
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  #10  
Old 11-15-2002, 11:33 AM
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Actually no guys, I hadn't run the 'clanky' sound past my indie yet. The sound I'm hearing is coming more form the handle/strike plate area than from the check strap area (although I do have a small squeak coming from the check strap, which graphite powder didn't fix).

With car's increased useage (i.e. opening and closing doors more frequently) in my hands, as opposed to the PO (8k mi in 3 years of ownership), the 'clanking' seems to be getting less noticable - or I'm more used to it . My assumption was that grease/lube had hardened/settled with such light use, but is now getting re-worked into the crevices as the mechanism is being used more.

I'd still like to get the nice dampened 'thunk' that I know they can have (my driver's side door is this way). I may just run it by the dealer for the 'lube and inspection of doors/trunk/hood' since it's probably only a drop or two of grease in the right spots and 60 seconds of time to make them all like new.

I will say rmesteller, these cars are awesome. With very few niggling exceptions regarding dated ergonimics, I can't see being dissapointed with this car for a very long time. I opted for the V8 because of the lack of major issues being common. Heat is it's biggest enemy and you'll do very well by using synthetic oil and keeping the cooling system well maintained. The most respected techs here have commented frequently that the m119 is one of the best, most durable V8's ever made. Plus, how can you resist the sound when firing up that baby and stepping on it!

regards,
- Ryan
__________________
'95 E420 - 'Shadowfax' 138kmi.
'92 Volvo 740Turbo Bard 193kmi
'74 240D - 'Ol' Green' 4spd Manual 104kmi. (sold )
'77 300D - 'Red' 223kmi (sold)
'75 240D - 'Bianca the Blue Bomber' (sold)
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  #11  
Old 11-15-2002, 01:35 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Denmark
Posts: 412
For what it's worth..

My doors -drivers door especially, also had that 'clanking' sound and feel to them.
I replaced the door strap on the drivers door yesterday and it's like new! The feel when opening and closing is great. And it's got the good old expensive-sounding 'thunk' back.

The part is only around $16 (in Europe) and it's a real easy 30 min DIY job. Description in DIY section here

Freestyler
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  #12  
Old 11-15-2002, 01:50 PM
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dieseldude,

I guess I didn't state my question quite right. I was referring to your steering wheel/column noise. Did that get fixed?

Thanks,
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Rodd
www.mbca.org - www.sl113.org - www.ohio4x4.com
2006 Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon
1997 E300D
1966 230SL
1980 450SL (for sale!)
PAST: 2006 C230, 1994 E420, 1994 Neon, 1983 Celica GT, 1984 300ZX, 1976 Electra Limited, 1984 Honda Nighthawk 650, 1979 Suzuki PE175
http://badges.fuelly.com/images/sig-us/662536.png
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  #13  
Old 11-15-2002, 04:58 PM
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For a couple of reasons, I was talking with an experienced salesman at the MB dealer where this car had been serviced. I brought up the tapping/rattling in the steering column and by my brief description, his first thought would be a steering assembly rack. If so, it would be about a $3,000 repair. Of course, that was an experienced salesman talking, not an experienced service technician.
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Rodd
www.mbca.org - www.sl113.org - www.ohio4x4.com
2006 Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon
1997 E300D
1966 230SL
1980 450SL (for sale!)
PAST: 2006 C230, 1994 E420, 1994 Neon, 1983 Celica GT, 1984 300ZX, 1976 Electra Limited, 1984 Honda Nighthawk 650, 1979 Suzuki PE175
http://badges.fuelly.com/images/sig-us/662536.png
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  #14  
Old 11-15-2002, 07:34 PM
AddictedtoMB
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My Dad took the car home with him to another city where he has a good mechanic. Apparently, the mechanic found the steering to be done up too tight. By loosening the steering, the rattle at the top of the steering column is now gone. I just heard from my Dad, and I will let you know when he returns in about a week if I am satisfied with the repair.

The clunk in the rear end upon acceleration turned out to be bolts holding the transmission, which had managed to loosen slightly.
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  #15  
Old 11-15-2002, 11:49 PM
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Dieseldude,

I have a 92 400E and experience similar problems. The steering column rattle, I hear it now and then. Sometimes under full acceleration, I can hear it like its coming from the instrument cluster. Also worth checking out, the plastic trim on TOP of the steering column, right below the instrument cluster. Mine had worked itself loose and was rattling on occasion. Also, try vary'n the telescopic adjustment, and see if the same noise persists.

When u have a squeek in the door, you will have to replace the door check straps. You really cant greese them without taking the door panel off, and your better off replacing them ($12 item).

For all you W124 400E/E420 owners. Do yourself a favor and get a 2.82 rear end. You will thank me.

Best of luck,

Andy
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