Hello,

Been doing a huge project on my M103.

Engine + transmission and driveline removed, Diff still in

Have swapped over Auto shifter and Pedals to 190e 5 Speed shifter and Clutch pedal assembly.


My car now however will not MOVE. Doesn't roll at all yet I don't know what is holding it back. Handbrake is not stuck at all and is ofcourse not on....

I am aware there are some weird cables on the side of the Auto shifters that don't allow the car to be moved when its in park or whatever. I've played around with them a bit and still can't get it to move??

Any advice is greatly appreciated, could anyone shed some light on the Neutral Safety Switch or the cables on the side of the Auto shifter?


Many Thanks

So you have a car on four wheels without an engine, a transmission and a propshaft fitted and it won't roll?

If so check the parking brake (or for chocks under the wheels!)

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Yeah! That's what is literally making NO sense at all. I jacked up the back wheels, the differential spins about half-way around and then it locks into place.

Nope nothing under the wheels of course and parking brake was the first thing I checked. I even got under the car and checked how it was working infront of the differential. Got a helper to put the brake on & off and everything was working fine. Pulling and releasing just fine.

NO CLUE WHAT TO DO

Have you driven this car before?

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

You could try disconnecting an axle from each side. If it still recurs, you know it's the diff.

__________________
Prost!

Could there be a bolt left in the flex disc I wonder?

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Yep I have driven the car before, It was rolling perfectly fine before I took transmission, shifter and pedal assembly out. I can spin the differential about half way around before it stops moving?

Are my park shoes by any chance maybe stuck on?

I have now MOVED the car by force because it HAD to be moved un fortunately. Now the Handbrake feels crazily weird to put down. Looks like i'm going to be taking apart the rear brake assembly to assess the problem -_-

PITA

If the lug bolts are too long, they can damage the parking shoes.

Then you turn the diff input flange 1/2 turn, do either of the axle shafts rotate?

If you are able to turn diff input flange 1/2 turn and axles don't turn, you have a internal diff problem.

Back in the day I had a corvette with a factory defect that they did not properly torque the bolts on the ring gear! They backed out and you could only get a half of a turn out of the wheels..........This sounds very familiar
I had to drop the IRS Diff, get new bolts, and clean out all the metal.

__________________
88 W124 3.0
96 R129 119eng
06 ML350
98 ML320 sold
02 CLK55 amg

Any updates?

__________________
Prost!