OK, back basics. Start with the front. Check for bent parts. Curb/pothole hits can bend metal. Bent suspension parts will drive you crazy - use a straight edge and compare right to left. In alignment 101 'pulls' are typically fixed by 1-eliminate tire issues (set/check pressures, swap RF w/LF - if the 'pull' follows the tire - replace tire/tires). It sounds like you have addressed this. 2-get the camber close/even, and for good wear get as close to zero camber (except for road crown issues, those require more positive camber on the left side). Your camber is wrong. 3-Caster needs to be less on the left than on the right (sometimes as much as a degree). Find the spec, back off the left and add to the right in equal amounts. Finally adjust toe in to spec. Look at the Pittman arm on the steering gearbox. it should be oriented fore & aft parallel to the direction of travel. All this presumes a relatively straight car. Now it's time to move to the rear. Camber - adjust to even left to right, as close to zero as possible. Set the toe to spec. Now it's time to check/adjust the thrust angle (basically matching the rear's direction of travel to the front). Don't skip steps. Keep working on the front caster till you get the pull under the control.
I've spent a several hours pulling the car on the rack, making adjustments, taking it for a test drive and pulling it back on the rack to fix pulls. It's part of the job - it's called maintaining "Customer Satisfaction". Once the cars drives straight, write down the settings and the ride height. That way you (or the alignment tech) can compare the car to a prior baseline - it speeds the process (remember time = money to the shop).
Good luck & persevere. If the car isn't bent it can be made to go straight.
01-30-2016, 11:39 AM
Linear Mode
