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  #1  
Old 05-17-2002, 09:23 PM
1992300e
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Question idler arm / exhaust and ball joint

Hi all,

Just spent the afternoon under and on top of my 1992 300e 2.6

I have a few questions I hope you can help me with.

First, can not remove idler arm, exhaust is in the way. Any suggestions on how to remove the exhaust? The bolts look rusted and from prior experience I have never gotten exhaust bolts off without cutting them, not sure how to get at them on this car. I want to rebuild the idler arm bushings.

Second, got the control arm mounting bolts off and out at the frame (don't do without spring compresor, found out the hard way, lucky no injuries). I will get the spreader tool, but still looks as though it will be tough getting the ball joint out of the spindle. Any adivce or suggestions? I want to replace the ball joint after I get the control arm off of the car.

Finaly, any suggestions on a good Benz mechanic in NH? Dealers have not seemed too interested in helping me, not very courteous, or helpfull with advice. I need my AC system gone through and would like to bring somewhere I can trust and build a repore, looking for a good working relationship. Want to bring my car somewhere for the fixes that are over my head but still have a relationship were I can get some advice on the fixes I can do.

Thanks in advance for your help,
Joel

1992 300 2.6
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  #2  
Old 05-17-2002, 10:18 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Clearwater, FL
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Wink

Joel,

Before moving to North Carolina a few years back, I took my Benz to Amoskeag European Auto. They are located on 599 Front St. in Manchester. Their phone # is 603-669-7750. I believe Pat MacCarthy is still the owner/tech. Prices were fair and Pat gave me a little advice from time to time. He converted my a/c 4 years ago - still works great even here in NC.

I also purchased a used vehicle from him... that transaction could have been more pleasant>
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  #3  
Old 05-17-2002, 11:29 PM
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Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: Jax, FL
Posts: 1,785
I will share the experience with MY car!

First,
I did not remove the exhaust. However, I did have to raise the engine by removing the fan cowl, the engine mount (passenger side) and the transmission mount. It sounds bad but, you just remove a few bolts, support the engine and the transmission and that is it. You only need a few inches. It is going to be tight but, it will work.
For number two, you can do it the way I did it, hard blows in well placed spots (NOT recommended) or just take it to a machine shop to remove/install the new one. It is worth it and relatively cheap.
I can not help you with #3.
Good luck!
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'86 300E
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  #4  
Old 05-18-2002, 12:39 AM
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Join Date: Aug 1999
Location: Florida / N.H.
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The trick to idler bushings is to remove nut, push bolt up and pry lower bushing out. Then pry top one out with bolt. Then you can remove the bolt because it can be angled without the bushings in place.
Assemble same way and squeese the bushings in with large pliers after aligning bolt.
Saves taking anything off....except the heat shield
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  #5  
Old 05-18-2002, 08:59 AM
1992300e
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thanks guys

I really appreciate the help!!

Thank you very much. I will try the bushing removal technique first and then the engine angle.

Thanks again, I will bring the control arm to a shop and have the ball joint pressed out and new one in.

Your help is invaluable.


Thanks,
Joel
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  #6  
Old 05-18-2002, 10:47 AM
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Neat trick Arthur. I always push the old bolt upward and burn the head off with a torch and then install from the other direction on reassembly.

I might just try it your way next time.
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Continental Imports
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  #7  
Old 05-18-2002, 12:24 PM
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Join Date: Aug 1999
Location: Florida / N.H.
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Joel,
I have a friend who owns a fine shop here in Southern N.H.
who fits your needs well. Here is the info...

http://members.aol.com/ajdalton7/tl.jpg

SB,
Thanks for the idler arm tip goes to MB Doc, as I got it from one of his post back in the early Forum Days....

Arthur
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  #8  
Old 05-21-2002, 04:49 AM
1992300e
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Thanks

Arthur,

Thanks for the note, I'll call Dean,
Joel

PS> Thanks to everyone for the help and notes, I am in England and Germany this week and as soon as I get home I'll be back under the Benz using your techniques.

Thanks,
Joel
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  #9  
Old 07-23-2002, 08:22 AM
LarryBible
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It seems that if you put the bolt in from the bottom, the threads will not provide proper fit against the ID of the idler arm hole.

My $0.02,
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  #10  
Old 07-23-2002, 08:56 AM
1992300e
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Hey from Korea,

In Korea this week, will finish idler arm work when I return home.

As for upside down or not. Looks as though, on my car, the bushings are symetrical and nut / bolt would line up either way.

Thanks,
Joel
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  #11  
Old 07-23-2002, 09:45 AM
LarryBible
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I'm sure it will line up, my hesitation relates to the fact that with the bolt in from the bottom up, you will only have the threads contacting the idler arm hole. This would not be as strong as the non threaded part of the bolt inside the hole of the idler arm.

If Steve does it, however, it is probably okay.

Have a great day,
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  #12  
Old 07-23-2002, 10:01 AM
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I'll probably try the Donnie technique the next time. I have been waiting to try it every since MBDoc mentioned it a while ago.

I have no problem with turning the bolt over though. I have been so handy with a torch most of my life that the first one of these I came across I just reacted. We have turned over plenty of them. Takes me about thirty seconds unless I can't find my striker. I keep a set of torches right next to my alignment lift.
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  #13  
Old 07-23-2002, 11:50 AM
LarryBible
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Steve,

Thanks for the response. Again I thank you pros for sharing your experience with us.

Given that I drive my cars a zillion miles each, I will definitely now put the new bolt in from the bottom. That way, it will be a simple operation next time.

Have a great day,
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  #14  
Old 07-23-2002, 06:18 PM
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IMHO

I like the insurance policy of having the nut on the bottom. That way, gravity works in my favor in the event of a failure.
Also, I can't imagine getting a torque wrench on the nut if it's on top, so it is unlikely it could be torqued accurately upside-down.

Manipulating the engine position did not work well for me.
Removing the rear exhaust manifold was really not that bad.
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  #15  
Old 07-28-2002, 06:48 AM
1992300e
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Thumbs up No Probelm

Hi guys,

Just got back from Korea and still on Korean time schedule (awake at night, sleepy during day). Got up wide awake at 3:00am and took off the idler arm bolt. Easy as cake. I took off the nut, used a large pair of pliers to pull out the bottom bushing. Pushed the bolt up, used a large deep socket and rubber hammer to loosen top bushing. Put socket in from bottom and, socket was large enough to fit over bolt and sat on the bushing. Got it started then used pliers to pry out, came out easy and had plenty of play to pull bolt out.

Man that was a lot easier than I thought it would be.

Thanks for the great advice guys.

Joel
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