That won't be a problem anymore, getting another head. The head was toast unfortunately, they are unable to rebuild it.

__________________
1979 Black on Black, 300CD (sold), 1990 Black 300SE, Silver 1989 Volvo 780, 1988 300CE (vanished by the hands of a girlfriend), 1992 300CE (Rescue).

Got the new head reassembled last night and will install it in the coming days, still waiting for the freeze plugs to arrive before I can finish it up. Is it possible, that before I torque the head bolts to spec, that I turn the engine with the head in place to make sure everything is ok?

__________________
1979 Black on Black, 300CD (sold), 1990 Black 300SE, Silver 1989 Volvo 780, 1988 300CE (vanished by the hands of a girlfriend), 1992 300CE (Rescue).

You could but, anything that would cause the engine to not turn/have interference would be valve timing related due to the camshaft being out-of-time with the crankshaft. The camshaft out-of-time fix would not require removing the head.

Be certain that the camshaft/valve timing is correct. If you feel anything binding or hitting STOP, find the problem before moving on. With the spark plugs out you should get a smooth rotation of the engine with a ratchet on the crank sprocket 27??? mm. Turn it a couple of times and double check that the cam is in time with the crank.

The head looks great...nice work and good luck!!!

__________________
"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer

I can't find the proper bit to remove 510 (see arrow), I assume it's a 17mm 12 bit torx bit that I need, or would a regular 17mm hex bit work?

__________________
1979 Black on Black, 300CD (sold), 1990 Black 300SE, Silver 1989 Volvo 780, 1988 300CE (vanished by the hands of a girlfriend), 1992 300CE (Rescue).

17mm hex bit is correct. I thought it was a triple square but as far as I can tell, no one makes one that size. The FSM was useless for telling me what tool is necessary so I tried to see if the 17mm hex would fit and sure enough, it did.

__________________
Current: 1975 450SEL, 83 300D, 88 Yugo GVX, 90 300D OM603 swap, 91 F150 4.6 4v swap, 93 190E Sportline LE 3.0L M104 swap, 93 190E Sportline LE Megasquirt, 03 Sprinter, 06 E500 4Matic wagon.

17mm hex bit can work.

Thanks, should be easy to find.

__________________
1979 Black on Black, 300CD (sold), 1990 Black 300SE, Silver 1989 Volvo 780, 1988 300CE (vanished by the hands of a girlfriend), 1992 300CE (Rescue).

I have a real hard time getting the head back on the block, I'm unable to get the two index pins to fall into the head, it's almost like they are not lined up correctly. I was able to put the head bolts through the head and turn them into the block, so the head is in the right position. I even managed to damage the gasket, looks like I need a new one.
Any suggestions?

__________________
1979 Black on Black, 300CD (sold), 1990 Black 300SE, Silver 1989 Volvo 780, 1988 300CE (vanished by the hands of a girlfriend), 1992 300CE (Rescue).

Got a new head gasket, prepared a little better and took my time this morning and it went on the first time trying. No lift, Iron Man style

__________________
1979 Black on Black, 300CD (sold), 1990 Black 300SE, Silver 1989 Volvo 780, 1988 300CE (vanished by the hands of a girlfriend), 1992 300CE (Rescue).

If the engine is turned by hand without the chain tensioner installed, will the timing be off?

__________________
1979 Black on Black, 300CD (sold), 1990 Black 300SE, Silver 1989 Volvo 780, 1988 300CE (vanished by the hands of a girlfriend), 1992 300CE (Rescue).

It shouldn’t go off if you turn the crank sprocket since there shouldn’t be slack on the span pulling the cam sprocket. I mean assuming these wasn’t slack on the pulling span to begin with. The question I have is does the tensioner rail keep the chain from bunching on the slack side of the crank sprocket to prevent jamming.

This chain looks like it’s doubling on itself as it departs the crank sprocket. Absent tension, it continues on the sprocket. Further turning the crank sprocket could cause problems.



Picture from this thread - M103 timing cover reseal + chain guides

Sixto
98 E320s sedan and wagon

The chain wasn't bouncing, it went very smooth. Now another question, does the crank make the same rotation as the cam, if I turn the cam 4x did the crank made the same rotation to get back to TDC?

Thanks for the link, very helpful.

__________________
1979 Black on Black, 300CD (sold), 1990 Black 300SE, Silver 1989 Volvo 780, 1988 300CE (vanished by the hands of a girlfriend), 1992 300CE (Rescue).

Cam turns half as fast as crank. 4 full cam turns is 8 full crank turns. Crank should always be at TDC when the cam is at TDC, give or take chain elongation, head surfacing, gasket thickness, etc.

Sixto
98 E320s sedan and wagon

That puts me at ease! It's quite a learning experience.

__________________
1979 Black on Black, 300CD (sold), 1990 Black 300SE, Silver 1989 Volvo 780, 1988 300CE (vanished by the hands of a girlfriend), 1992 300CE (Rescue).

I hear you. I know better but there’s a moment of despair after rolling in a new chain, giving the crank two turns then not seeing the master link where it started.

Sixto
98 E320s sedan and wagon