W124 Rear Control Arm Links

[85 DSEL]

Anyone here replaced their rear suspension links? How big a job is it for a DIY? Pretty sure all my links need replaced as the rubber joints are fairly rotted away on most of them. Thanks for your replies

[Phillytwotank]

Done it. Dropped the entire rear subframe and replaced everything all in one shot. Knowing what I learned from that experience I would say. If I were looking at replacing just the links I would just do them one at a time underneath the car.

[85 DSEL]

Yeah, I haven't looked too close at the sub frame mounts but it's likely they aren't in too good of shape. I do have access to a lift so that would make it a bit easier getting to the nuts and bolts. I've seen a video or two of the full sub frame mounts rubber replacement and it looks like a big job!

Did you use Mercedes parts or after market?

[Stretch]

I've done a similar job on my W201 - the hardest part was trying to get the rear alignment sorted afterwards - I ran out of time and had to pay someone to do it (oh the shame!)

I used a combination of TRW and Lemforder parts if I remember correctly

[85 DSEL]

I ran across these on fleabay but they may be/probably are junk...


If possible I'd like to do this over the winter but will see how time goes...


https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Control-Arm-Ball-Joint-Suspension-Kit-8-PC-Rear-Driver-Passenger-Side/281317614709?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

[Mxfrank]

Replacing all the bones with the suspension in place is like building a ship in the bottle. Dropping the rear subframe makes access open and easy. It allows you to use power tools or torches on rusty fasteners without collateral damage.

[Stretch]

Originally Posted by 85 DSEL

I ran across these on fleabay but they may be/probably are junk...


If possible I'd like to do this over the winter but will see how time goes...


https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Control-Arm-Ball-Joint-Suspension-Kit-8-PC-Rear-Driver-Passenger-Side/281317614709?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

If I remember correctly years ago each strut was about 30 euros a pop so 80 USD for the set mmmm...


...special price

[Phillytwotank]

I used mostly lemforder parts for everything but I did get a kit of the rear suspension arms from meyle. I have no complaints about quality of any of those.
Dropping the rear subframe is not that difficult with a good jack and an extra set of hands.

[Rocambolesque]

I did it too on my W201. Dropped the subframe as well. While I was in there, I refurbished just about everything in that area. Stripped and painted subframe, new subframe bushings, all new arms, cleaned spindles, new bearings, e-brake cables, brake lines, diff seals, etc. I don't think I would've been able to remove one link with all that rust. Even with the subframe off the car, I had to cut stuff and use BFH's. Now with everything cleaned, changing just one link is easy. But on an older car that saw salt for 25 years, just drop everything...
I also had a very hard time separating one bushing from the steel spigot in the underbody. I had to completely destroy the bushing to remove it.

[MCallahan]

"If I remember correctly years ago each strut was about 30 euros a pop so 80 USD for the set mmmm..."

If it's a wagon, the struts are not going to be $80 and it's going to be a lot more involved to drop the rear sub frame because of the SLS. Also, the rear wheel bearings in the wagons are PITA to get out because the bearing rollers are a larger diameter than the snap ring, so you have to pull the axle out of both inner races. There is no way to pull them with a slide hammer, ask me how I know.

[85 DSEL]

Originally Posted by MCallahan

"If I remember correctly years ago each strut was about 30 euros a pop so 80 USD for the set mmmm..."

If it's a wagon, the struts are not going to be $80 and it's going to be a lot more involved to drop the rear sub frame because of the SLS. Also, the rear wheel bearings in the wagons are PITA to get out because the bearing rollers are a larger diameter than the snap ring, so you have to pull the axle out of both inner races. There is no way to pull them with a slide hammer, ask me how I know.

It's actually for my 260E sedan... Thanks for your reply!

[lsmalley]

I did this job on my w201 and it was surprisingly very simple. I didn't remove the subframe and used all regular hand tools. You will need a 12 mm (or 10 mm, I forget which size) xzn triple square for the eccentric bolt. Also, get a 30 mm 12 point socket (the one to remove the axle nut). It just so happens that the 30 mm socket fits perfectly on the race of the rear control arm bushing and you can hammer it out right through the control arm and put the new one in without any damage to the bushing. A good tip to use is to get a small quart of white paint/primer and use it on all the bolts/nuts. I have made it a habit to use the white paint and starting from the center on a bolt, I will draw either a horizontal or vertical line extending to the surface of the vehicle (sorta like making a notch) to ensure that everything goes back exactly how it was. This will help with the misalignment issue. When torquing everything down, the wheel should be on the ground, but for this part I usually jack up from under the control arm to get the wheel where it would level if it were on the ground and I would torque everything to spec that way then I would put the wheel back on and take it for a test drive. Good luck.

[85 DSEL]

Originally Posted by lsmalley

I did this job on my w201 and it was surprisingly very simple..

Would you have a recommendation for a 'sequence-of-removal' of the various five links? IOW, should one remove say the upper-most link first, then another and so on....

Thanks for the tips!

Dale

[85 DSEL]

Originally Posted by lsmalley

....A good tip to use is to get a small quart of white paint/primer and use it on all the bolts/nuts. I have made it a habit to use the white paint and starting from the center on a bolt, I will draw either a horizontal or vertical line extending to the surface of the vehicle (sorta like making a notch) to ensure that everything goes back exactly how it was. This will help with the misalignment issue....

Somebody care to draw or take a picture explaining this procedure? Jeeesh, I'm a thick head at times

Thanks
Dale

EDIT: Is this at all the idea?

[sm. pelle]

For easier work and not dropping subframe, u can just unbolt subframe front bushings. Then subframe drops 2-4 inches.