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  #31  
Old 07-12-2002, 03:40 PM
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: Washington, D.C.
Posts: 395
My 2 cents worth

Don't know if the valve is supposed to be clicking, never had it happen.

I had a real idle control and rough idle problem on my '89 560 . I decided to clean the valve using brake cleaner - took forever, but was kind of fun, whatching all the gunk come out.

I then lubed the valve using sillicone lube spray. These were all Moedips ideas (senior member to this board).

My idle problems are gone...
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Henry Bofinger
1989 560 SEL (black/black)
2001 Audi TT Roadster (silver/grey)
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  #32  
Old 07-12-2002, 05:57 PM
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Two more questions:
#1 :Where does all the "gunk" yall talk about come from? Is this not filtered air passing through the valve?
#2 : Will a bad idle valve cause or contribute to a hard to start condition?

I hope I didn't call anything by an improper term. And Steve, I promise I'll quit listening to my car!!
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  #33  
Old 07-12-2002, 06:52 PM
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Well I was going to tell you where the gunk came from, but I'll pass.
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Steve Brotherton
Continental Imports
Gainesville FL
Bosch Master, ASE Master, L1
33 years MB technician
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  #34  
Old 07-12-2002, 08:55 PM
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Join Date: May 2002
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What - dead bugs and road dust too fine to be trapped by the air filter?

Eewwww!....
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Henry Bofinger
1989 560 SEL (black/black)
2001 Audi TT Roadster (silver/grey)
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  #35  
Old 07-13-2002, 07:43 AM
Brian16V
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Changed my Idle Valve just tonight (I had NO idle -- was intermittent at first, then had to keep my foot on the pedal to keep from dyin'). Took about an hour; said a little prayer then voila! Back to idling quite nicely. With shipping, I paid around $195.00 from Performance Products. I think Parts Shop has it for a little less.

Good Luck!

Brian16V
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  #36  
Old 07-13-2002, 11:33 AM
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Join Date: May 2000
Posts: 376
Cap,

I believe some of the `gunk` is oil being pulled from the valve cover on heavy vacuum situations (deceleration).

Tinker
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  #37  
Old 07-15-2002, 11:32 AM
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I removed mine yesterday and flushed with lacquer thinner. Not much gunk and it looks clean in there. Applied varying voltages and watched as the gate moved to different positions. It appears to be working. It is now my belief that I am experiencing a major shortage coming from "somewhere". The clicking I'm hearing is the valve responding to current from the OVP. It appears that the idle valve "thinks" the engine is still running and is still trying to operate. Or the valve is losing it's signal all at once causing the valve to "slap" shut . In either case I think the idle control valve is O.K.

Last edited by Cap'n Carageous; 07-15-2002 at 03:09 PM.
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  #38  
Old 07-15-2002, 02:01 PM
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Join Date: May 2000
Posts: 376
Cap,

It appears that you and I are in the same boat, trying to figure out our car`s woes. If could possibly be an OVP short. You should monitor the voltage/amps coming to the valve to insure it doesn`t have some sort of short, however unlikely.

I have been looking at the schematics and it appears that the main signal to impower the OVP relay comes from the ignition switch. In a prior post I read and restated that if voltage is present at the fuses in the OVP, it should be ok. From the diagram on the side of the relay, this is incorrect. It could still have an internal short or ground problem causing it to not put out the correct voltage to the fuel computer, idle valve or ABS brain.

Someone correct me if I am wrong.

Trying to figure it out for myself................cause I am cheap.

Tinker
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