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  #1  
Old 07-17-2002, 11:52 AM
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190E 2.3 Stalling Problems

I am at a total loss in diagnosing a stalling problem with my 1988 190E, 2.3. The car starts well and idles well but occassionally stalls while warming up and will occassionally stall when coming to a stop (after engine warmup). To date, we have replaced both the fuel pump and the fuel pump relay. I have also gone through the ignition replacing plugs, spark plug cables, and distributor rotor and cap. But, the problem still persists. I have done a search on this board, and cannot get a match that makes sense. There is a lot of discussion over the OVP relay, but I guess that I do not understand how it would impact my problem. I have not done anything with the fuel pressure regulator or the idle stabilization valve. Since these are relatively expensive items, I hate to play the replacment game unless I can get a better understanding of how each would impact my problem and how to go about troubleshooting these accessories. Hopefully, someone can expand on this item. TIA.
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  #2  
Old 07-17-2002, 10:39 PM
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Somehow, my post requesting info on a 190E stalling problem got lost in cyberspace. Since I really at my wits end to solve this little mystery, please re-read my post and offer any assistance. Your help would be much appreciated.
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  #3  
Old 07-18-2002, 04:52 PM
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Please respond.
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  #4  
Old 07-18-2002, 10:17 PM
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I clicked the search button on the upper right of this page and and typed in: 190E 2.3 Stalling and I got 9 responses. Try that.

I don't know a lot of about the 190E 2.3 Stalling problems. I am looking at one for my daughter to drive and it doesn't run well, although the compression seems good. I replaced the rotor, cap, plugs and plug wires. It idles roughly and doesn't accelerate well.

Let me know what you find.
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'95 E320 Wagon-Went to Ex
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'65 911 Coupe (#302580)
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  #5  
Old 07-19-2002, 12:45 AM
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I had a similar problem last year. My 19E is a 86 model and it turned out that the stem seal (oil seal) on the valve were rock hard and not doing a good job at preventing motor oil form dripping into the valve. The stalling problem went away after the stem seal were replaced. I hope this will give you some pointers.
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  #6  
Old 07-19-2002, 01:18 AM
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thanks for that info.

I have recently changed to high-mileage oils that have "conditioners" for valve stem seals. I put in our '91 300E with 180k. It was going through a quart every 1k +/- ... since then I am using a quart every 2,000 to 2,500 miles. I am very impressed. I used Valvoline's MaxLife 10W-40.

I just changed the oil and am now using Castrol's version and I have used no oil in some time. Whew! This is great.

I will try it in the 190E we are considering.

J
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'95 E320 Wagon-Went to Ex
'93 190E 2.6-Wrecked
'91 300E-Went to Ex
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  #7  
Old 07-19-2002, 06:57 AM
Brian16V
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Had the same problem on my 1984 190E; was the Fuel Pump Relay ($125.00 part -- easy install) -- that would be my first guess. Recent stalling problem on my current 16V was attributed to a faulty Idle Control Valve ($175.00 part -- 1 hour install).

Good luck!

Brian16V
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  #8  
Old 07-19-2002, 08:42 AM
David C Klasse's Avatar
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Lightbulb Bite the bullet!!

Definitly sounds like the OVP to me... it's only a $50 part, you can change it yourself in minutes, and it is so commonly a problem!
I would, WITHOUT A DOUBT, buy a new one.
Chances are, your problem will be solved. Your symptoms point directly to the infamous OVP. (Fuel pump relay sounds somewhat likely also.)

GOOD LUCK! ANd keep us posted on the results / solution!
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Previous:
1993 300E 3.2L Sedan w/ close to about 300k miles
2003 E500 Brilliant Silver (Had 217k miles when totalled!)
1989 300E with 289,000 miles (had for <1 yr while in HI)
03 CLK 500 cabrio (Mom's)
2006 C230k (Dad's)
1999 S420 (Mom's/Dad's)
2000 C230k Sport sedans
2001 CLK320 Cabrio (Mom's)
1995 C280 My First Mercedes-Benz... (155k miles. EXCEPTIONAL AUTOMOBILE. Was Very hard to let go of!)
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  #9  
Old 07-20-2002, 11:32 AM
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Ear,

I HATE replacing parts as a means to solve a problem. Especially with M.B. ($$$$$) parts. Your problem COULD be the OVP relay, or it could be a decel switch, a bad air idle valve or a throttle valve switch or even a crank sensor. All inputs are needed for a smooth, steady idle.

I think we all agree that Stevebfl policy of testing parts as opposed to replacing them is the way to go. If your OVP has two fuses on top, its probably the latest version and not the problem. But you could test it by applying 12v to pin 30 & 15 and grounding 31. Check the voltage outputs at all the other pins (87E & 87L). Outputs on these pins should be near battery voltage. Wiggle and lightly bang on it while you are doing this to see if you can get it to short.

Tinker
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  #10  
Old 07-20-2002, 02:05 PM
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Check the microswith first. this sensor doesn't let the car stall
when returning to idle.
See if it clickes when you open and close the throttle. Adjust or get new one . 15.00

190e 16v
IROC 911
gyrocopter
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190E 2.3 Stalling Problems-mb-motorsport92-s127.jpg  
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  #11  
Old 07-20-2002, 05:21 PM
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Hmmm, sounds like you are learning the hard way how not to fix a Mercedes, or any car in fact. Replacing plugs and leads are probably the only thing worth replacing 'because they might solve it'. But really, these 4-cyl engines are remarkably solid and also quite simple compared to newer stuff.

In my 4-cylinder 190E, the microswitch on the throttle mechanism wasn't activating due to incorrect cable adjustment for a few months, and I had none of the problems you described. I did get the exact problems when my ovp fuse was blown. Read this post and i highlighted the fuse:

Car is pinking, which of these is fuel octane adjuster? (pics)

Mine blew from jump-starting the car, have you done that recently?

A *decent* tech (and I have seen so many people on this board with techs who just keep guessing at parts which "might be the problem, mate" and replaceing them at great cost, when if they put any effort into things, should be able to track down the problem to the *1* part that is causing the problem, and replace that one) should be able to help you out if you reach a dead end with your fixing. Like I said, the engine is solid so the problem will be a small sensor or relay most likely.

Sorry, didn't mean to preach, but I get mad when I work so hard to do this on other people's cars when working at my dad's indy garage, and other techs probably make more money selling the customers part after part after part.

later
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  #12  
Old 07-23-2002, 02:13 AM
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I have a similar problem with my '93 E220. Sometimes the car would shudder after stopping, with a couple of wild fluctuations in idle speed before settling down.

I had the OVP replaced, but that hadn't fixed the problem.

Hope this is of some assistance.
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  #13  
Old 07-29-2002, 10:09 AM
dj9769
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same thing on my E220

I just got a '95 E220 a month ago & it's got that idle problem when it's in normal operating temperature.

Obviously it's a very known problem.

Can anyone pls. me what is/are the common cause of this idling problem?

On another thread they were talking of a faulty temp sensor that could cause this. I just checked the the connector (30 mins. ago)on the temp sensor and one of the plugs had a bit of corrosion. I cleaned it and sprayed a very small amount of the WD40. I drove around for about 20 min. and the problem didn't show up.

I'll definitely find out by tomorrow if it really got solved when I drive to work & get back home.

I like the W124 since it came out and being the next decendant of the classic, reliable & the MB flagship carrier the W123 (w/c dad own 3 of them). But hearing prominent faults such as intermitent rough idling, sometimes I have doubts on the reliablity of the german technology in MBs compared to that of the japanese technology in Hondas.

It's probably a no comparison on the prestige & image aspect, both personal & the general publics notion, but I also owned 9 yr. old honda and did not have a complicated problem/s as being discussed in this site.

Oh well, I guess you just can't have it all. Nonetheless, I love my W124. .......but let's see. I'm working hard to keep it up to an as new condition and will judge it from there.

back to the problem- any advice???
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  #14  
Old 07-30-2002, 08:02 AM
dj9769
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it's still there

th eproblem was not solved.

could it be a mass airflow sensor (MAS) problem?

this only happens when I suddenly stop from acceleration.
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  #15  
Old 07-30-2002, 11:56 AM
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The E220 is not imported to the USA, so I am not aware of what engine you have in the car. My E320 has the inline six fitted with double overhead cams producing about 215 horsepower. If your E220 is fitted with another engine, then the problems may be caused by something other than on mine.

For the E320, there are two known issues with the engine. The first was that, for whatever reason, head gaskets leak; usually from an oil passage. The second issue that is indemick with this engine is failures in the engine wiring harness.

My car has suffered both problems. When the wiring harness shorted out, it took out the MAF sensor, which causes an extremely rough idle and stalling, and rendered the car essentially undriveable.

On the other hand, the 2.3 four cylinder engine fitted to my 190E has been around many years, and is a very strong engine. Since the fuel management systems on the two cars are not the same, you can not necessarily find that symptoms on one car indicate the same problem as on the other.

My current stalling problem is with the 2.3 four, not the six cylinder motor.

Good luck.
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