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  #16  
Old 01-21-2003, 09:38 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Kingsport, TN
Posts: 375
Thanks BAVBMW,
I also use a Sony; it's a DSC P31 that has 2 megapixels. It allows you to make close-ups up to 4 inches from the object.
I also bought it for the purpose of knowing how something looked like before I took it apart, and my fuel pump project will put that to the test.
I think it's great that this board can handle pictures. I feel everyone can get better advise when the problem can be seen. And it will help in the "search" function for future participants.
I have learnt a lot from people who took the time to set up a web site to show how they replaced guide rails etc. I try to do my part on a smaller scale and hope it encourages others to do the same.
I'm looking forward to your pictures...
Reinhard Kreutzer
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  #17  
Old 01-21-2003, 10:10 PM
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Join Date: May 1999
Location: New Location: VA Palo Alto HEALTH CARE SERVICES
Posts: 109
The fuel pump casing (front) tend to loose its seal, ..this is normal wear and tear. Make sure that the fuel tank is de-pressurized before making any attempt to replace the pump by removing the fuel cap. Make sure that the battery is dis-connected and replace the check valve while you are down there. Check all hoses for integrity. It is fairly easy to replace defective fuel pump. Have some rags, cap and containers to catch some fuel drippings on the inlet line. Hope this helps....
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  #18  
Old 01-21-2003, 11:14 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Kingsport, TN
Posts: 375
Thanks rudy,
it looks like you were right,after all...

Reinhard Kreutzer
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  #19  
Old 01-22-2003, 11:38 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: CA
Posts: 531
The fuel pump relay is on the firewall under the hood

Reinhard - on your 1987 420 SEL, the fuel pump relay resides on the firewall. As you face the engine, you will see three 'boxes' on the firewall to the left of the brake booster. The first (about 1" square, usually red with one or two fuses under a clear plastic cap on top) is the Over Voltage Protection (OVP) relay. The next two are the climate control relay (mine has the word 'Klimat' on top) and the fuel pump relay (mine has a rev limit marked on top). Mine are black with white paint markings, the tops measuring some 1" x 4". Some time in the late 80s, the factory reversed the position of these two - on my 1990 560SEL, the fuel pump relay is on the left - your 1987 may be in the center, but there's no confusing the two based on the markings. If all fails, pull one and see if the car will start - if it does not, you have pulled the fuel pump relay.

I'm inclined to place a dab of white paint near terminals 7 & 8 on the relay socket, as you can bet the thing will fail on a rainy night in the Bronx and your flashlight batteries will be flat, so you won't be able to see a thing. Yes, I do carry a piece of (insulated) wire for this eventuality.....
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  #20  
Old 01-22-2003, 01:37 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Kingsport, TN
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Thanks alot, Thomaspin,

I'm going to take a look and get my trusted camera in action again...
To know where the OVP relay is will also come in handy one day.

I'll report on the readings of the relay once I start the R&R process.

Regards
Reinhard Kreutzer
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  #21  
Old 01-22-2003, 09:36 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Kingsport, TN
Posts: 375
Hi everybody,
here is the picture of OVP on right with red head and fuel pump relay on left.
Right where Thomaspin said they were...
We get to know this baby as time goes on.
Reinhard Kreutzer
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oh no, fuel pump nr.2 leaks, too-ovp-fuel-relay.jpg  
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  #22  
Old 01-30-2003, 10:53 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Kingsport, TN
Posts: 375
Hi everybody,

Today, I replaced the pumps and pretty much everything else except the main fuel hose coming out of the tank. I couldn't get it loose even with a 22 mm that I bought after the adjustable wrench couldn't get in there.

Now it leaks out of pretty much every banjo fitting. I had tightened them to about 15 ftlbs but obviously not enough.
I'll increase it gradually tomorrow morning.

I'm also not too happy yet with the routing of the wires. I have the pumps now 180 degrees rotated from what they were. (Does that make any difference? Is there a "this side up"? The instructions don't mention anything.)
So the wires don't fit exactly as they have been bent from the prior setting. I'll straighten that out tomorrow, too.

The small rubber hose that runs from the tubing to the fuel accumulator also doesn't bend yet perfectly. It is too close to the axle. I took enough pictures and by comparing "before" and "after" I noticed it needs to bend under the filter.

To get the car started was easier than I thought. The pump runs for about a second when the key is in the "run" position, just before the "start" position. You can hear it stop. So I turned the key about 6 or 7 times into this position. Then the car started right up.

Keep your fingers crossed ....

Thanks again to everybody who contributed.

Reinhard Kreutzer
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  #23  
Old 01-31-2003, 01:40 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Kingsport, TN
Posts: 375
Hi everybody,

This morning I tightened the banjo fittings to 19 ftlbs and no more leaks. Hurray for the boy...

When installing the protective cover, I noticed the wire was rounded over the metal tubing rather than under. That made the installation of the box impossible. (see picture)

So off with the connections and rerouting.

Once the box goes on, you have to bend the rubber tube I was worried about away from the axle, thus the tie-downs I had used are not neccessary.

One final tip: The fuel hose to the front is routed over the metal bracket that holds the assembly to the car between 2 rubber buffers. It is also held there by a tie-down that is connected to this bracket. It is hard to see but if you wonder why it isn't coming out, thats why...

I hope this will help somebody in the future.

Thanks for your input.

Reinhard Kreutzer
Attached Thumbnails
oh no, fuel pump nr.2 leaks, too-new-install-wires-wrong-way.jpg  
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