Repair Tips, Short-Cuts - Page 7 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

nthach · #1 06-24-2003, 12:36 PM

Good tips, keep them coming!

suiteR · #2 06-24-2003, 02:57 PM

Use COLOURTUNE, a simple but helpful tool , just watch the color of the igniting fire

http://www.gunson.co.uk/acatalog/Gunson_Catalogue_Exhaust_Gas_Analysers_Mixture_Control_5.html

haasman · #3 07-01-2003, 03:52 PM

Keyes : I have found that a new key in an old tumbler extends the life and helps slow down the costly replacement.

Keys come from dealers, about $20, with proof of ownership.

I always get a new key when acquiring another car. I use the new key as the primary key and keep the old one(s) as backups.

Use lock lube. It works well and helps prevent that horrible rough feeling of worn tumblers.

A $20 key is a lot less expensive than a new ignition tumbler.

Haasman

MTI · #4 07-01-2003, 06:58 PM

When cleaning glass (home or auto), use vertical strokes for exteriors and horizontal strokes for interiors. This way, if there are streaks, you'll know which side they're on.

haasman · #5 07-15-2003, 09:51 PM

Front brake rotor replacement- Holding a rotor while removing the 5mm bolt: I have found inserting a long handled screw driver into the vent slots is just enough hold hold the brake rotor to remove the 5mm bolt.

If the car is jacked up too high, put several pieces of wood under the screwdrive handle.

The opposite also works for tightening this 5mm bolt.

Others use a long breaker bar or other item to span across the wheel bolts but I don't. Afraid of breaking the bolts or at least causing thread damage.

Haasman

mbshop · #6 07-15-2003, 11:47 PM

mercedes does not recommend graphite for the locks. causes problems with the alarms. they do have this nice little pressurized
container about the size of a lipstick container that squirts grease into the locks. it has a nice little tip that goes into the lock
moving the dust door aside so the grease goes on.

haasman · #7 07-16-2003, 01:20 AM

Thank you! The previous post has been corrected.

Haasman

albert champion · #8 07-16-2003, 03:54 AM

find a good mechanic. use him[or her] to do all the dirty work.

haasman · #9 07-20-2003, 02:56 PM

EZ-Out Tricks and Tips

Thanks to psfred

"There are several tricks.

The first is to use a left hand drill bit on a reversing drill. This will sometimes remove the stuck bolt, etc by heat and friction without the EZ out.

Second is to get the correct ones -- there are several kinds, and the tapered ones seem to fail more often.

You must insert the EZout all the way to the shoulder -- just getting the tip in will only ream the hole out.

Give the stuck part a couple good solid wacks with a punch and hammer before attempting to turn -- this will usually "start" them (unstick them some) so that you can turn them more easily.

Never apply breaking force to the extractor. Penetrating oil, impact, heat, but never more force than the extractor or metal will take. No point in breaking it or just reaming the hole larger.

On a bleeder, I'd use a pilot bit (Bullet drill) to make the hole, and remove a good bit of the metal. That way you can always take a fine punch are collapse the remainer to remove it that way if the EZout fails. Leave enough metal for the EZout ot grab though."

haasman · #10 09-03-2003, 01:00 AM

These are from:fahrgewehr2

Thanks Mike!

*****************************

Hey all,

I work all day and have a 45 mile commute each way. My car needs to be ready to roll each morning, which means larger repairs and maintence tasks are often farmed out to the professionals. But, there are some little things one can do to make the car perform/look a little nicer which do not require a 30 minute shower afterwards. Whether these simple tasks be inside the car or out, they are simple. Here is my list:

1. Clean your antenna mast. I use WD40 on a cloth - gets all the dirt off and allows for smoother operation.

2. Lube your driver side mirror so it can be adjusted easily.

3. Tighten the bolts which anchor the front seats- they loosen over time.

4. Lubricate doors to quite annoying creaking noises when opening and closing.

5. Use needle to clean windshield washer nozzles.

6. Gently clean wiper blades.

7. Purchase a CD player cleaner disk and use it once a month. If you have a Becker replace it immedialtely. Seriously.

8. Replace headlight washer blades before those new euro lights get scratched.

9. Lube sunroof tracks and wind deflector assembly.

10. Change it hot and often! No excuse not to!

Anyone else have any good tips? Perhaps this could be a usefull thread as there are little things which sometimes get neglected.

Mike

haasman · #11 09-03-2003, 01:02 AM

To lube the side mirror, simply fold back and spray internal workings with WD40, while moving mirror back and forth to assure all metal pieces are reached.

As for the sunroof, I simply visited my local independent and asked for his can of sunroof lubricant. Apply to tracks and use a spry lubricant to lubricate deflector hinges.

haasman · #12 09-03-2003, 01:03 AM

(Power Mirrors)

Yeah, they'll pivot back and forth. I recommend just folding back (towards the side glass). They don't lock into place, but they are spring loaded.

Power antennas are best cared for by extending it fully and wiping it down with a paper towel soaked in transmission fluid.
Make SURE the antenna is retracted before washing the car, especially those of you that use automatic car washes. Not a bad idea to relube the antenna after a wash or after a long road trip.

For those of us that "hand wash only", if your car is driven in harsh winter environments, a good chassis flush is required every spring. Usually the automatic washes will tend to keep the chassis in good shape, assuming you always get the chassis flush feature with the wash job. It will be tough for the hand-washers to find someplace that will do a thourough(sp) spring chassis flush. Possibly a "premium" car wash business in your area can do this for you.

Kestas · #13 09-03-2003, 09:20 AM

I'd be careful using an automatic wash to flush the chassis in the rust belt. They are notorious for recycling the soapy wash fluid, resulting in a salty brine. This would be the equivalent of efficiently forcing seawater into all the nooks and crannies of your vehicle! I heard the rinse water is fresh though.

My tip: If you live in the rust belt, buy yourself a pair of rubber gloves and keep the garden hose indoors. Anytime the outside temperature is above 32° you can wash your car and flush the salt. I've been doing this for 30 years and saved a lot of money in that time. I get strange stares from neighbors who watch me washing my cars and snow is piled high around the driveway. But this is when cars most need to be washed. Surprisingly, hands don't get that cold with rubber gloves on. Further tip... if you're washing the car late in the day and it's barely above freezing, the doors will surely freeze shut unless you keep the doors ajar for 10-20 minutes after washing. This'll allow most of the water to run off rather than wick into the door seals and freeze.

haasman · #14 09-19-2003, 01:30 PM

I was asked the other day, what is the proper way to mount a wheel on an axel hub. This is a bit obvious and deliberate, but here it is:

How to properly mount wheels: 4 steps

1. Locate the wheel on the hub (the factory tool kit often has a long metal dowel looking tool to help located the bolt hole in the hub)
2. Screw wheel bolts into hub evenly using a criss-cross (star) pattern with a hand tighten effort
3. Tighten wheel bolts using a criss-cross (star) pattern
4. Torque wheel bolts using a criss-cross (star) pattern

It is often recommended to re-check the wheel torque, especially when the wheel was mounted when warm or hot.

Haasman

Kestas · #15 09-19-2003, 06:07 PM

Very few people know how to retorque lug nuts that have been installed. You don't just place a torque wrench on the bolts and check that the stick clicks. You need to back the nut off a bit, then run the nut to proper torque. This is to overcome the starting friction. Torque values are specified for bolts that are moving.

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