I wonder if anyone can help me with this.


The drivers rear window on my 260e wont go all the way up anymore. Its sluggish part way up, and then it seems to hit a wall 2inches from the top. I removed the doorpanel to see if I could find some sort of obstruction, but i don'tnow whats its supposwed to look like.

I attached some immages, it would be great if someone would comment on them. Annotate my pictures and show me what its supposed to look like, that would be great. Or, if someone could give me a diogram of the parts and how they fit together, better.

I'm stumped on this one. At this point im bleading (yea those panals are sharp), my neck hurts, im frustrated...

I'm also,
sad 260e

Thanks in advance

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I'm sorry if there are too many images (324kb), but i think they will give a better undestanding of what my problem is.

Thanks for the comments,

Toby (sad 260e)


its sad... but it will get better

But AOL didn't recognize the sender...so let me post my answer here.

First things first...

To remove the door panel, first remove the plastic cover from the top of the door handle to remove the 10mm bolt.

The rest of the door panel is held on place by various plastic u-shaped clips as well as ridge along the top of the door panel held by anodized metal clips where it meets the window. The entire panel can be removed by pulling the whole thing "up" (not "out" like GM cars). It is a snug fit if the panel has never been removed, so it takes a bit of grunt, but be patient. Use the armrest for leverage.

Obviously you have gotten past this point...

I have had to replace both of my assemblies, but what usually occurs is that there is a plastic clip that holds the window track onto the cable assembly. It has probably fallen apart, causing the cable to "bind". You probably notice that the window will travel all the way down (with accompanying noise), but no more than about halfway up.

That "clip" on your last pic is the one in question...it's probably on its last legs...

You can purchase the clips (about $2-$3), but in both of my cases, the repeated attempts to raise/lower the window mangled the cable up badly. So I opted for a complete assembly in each case (about $140 apiece).

The window assembly has to be removed from the door shell for servicing or replacement in any case. The window has to be raised to the full up position by hand to remove the assembly (attached by 3 10mm nuts), then carefully lowered to rest inside the door shell. Take care working around the inside of the door shell, as the sheel metal edges are very sharp!

Depending on how familiar you are with this task, it could take anywhere from an hour to three hours...I'm a three hour guy as I take my time trying not to break stuff as I go along...good luck and let me know how it turns out!

__________________
2009 ML350 (106K) - Family vehicle
2001 CLK430 Cabriolet (80K) - Wife's car
2005 BMW 645CI (138K) - My daily driver
2016 Mustang (32K) - Daughter's car

G-Benz, Thank you for the reply, I'll try to get some of those clips (cheap way first) and see if that fixes the problem.

Can you tell me what the name of the part is, or should i be able to go into my MB parts shop and tell them that i need the plastic peice for the power window that breaks all the time.

Once i get the peice will it be straight forward how its supposed to go together, and is there a trick to getting the window glass out of the door frame.

Right now the glass is off the track and just resting inside the door, can i detatch it formt he assembly?

Thanks again.
Toby