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  #61  
Old 06-27-2003, 12:50 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 481
wow

Early days but I readjusted the zero on my air mass flow and bingo no more hesitation at idle and stall at acceleration. I will know more tomorrow after a good cold start and the drive to work. UK evo thanks for you pointer to zero the amf. Duty cycle is 60-70%(lean) and she is running great. Thanks again for all the support from the forum. I will update over the weekend fingers crossed everyone.
thanks
martin
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Martin Ingram
Colorado Springs
2005 320 CDI
2006.5 VW Jetta TDI
1991 560SEL (179000 Sold)
1972 280SEL 4.5 ('The Lead Sled' 320000 miles when sold.)
1972 220D (225000 when sold)
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  #62  
Old 06-27-2003, 04:54 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 64
Sounds good just richen her up a tad to 45-55% and you'll be spot on fingers crossed!
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  #63  
Old 07-06-2003, 06:29 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 481
Well she started doing it again.
So I pulled and replaced the air mass sensor because my brushes that hit the potentiometer were shreding. Put in a very nice used one and replaced the rubber ducting and throttle switch while I was at it. Got her started with some help from Steve. But the test drive shows the familiar problem.
So to recap, I have centered and adjusted the air mass sensor, replaced the potentiometer, replace the throttle switch. Still have the stall on acceleration.

I have 2 concerns can the EHA cause this (not sure but do not think so) and secondly can the new potentiometer be bad. I have 3 (2 clearly worn) however, and all show at about 3.96-4.01 Kohms my meter loses the nice consistant signal and goes to OL (out of range) then come straight back. This is read from pin 1 and 2.

I am desperate as although not a lot of money has gone into this alot of my time has, and while I have a better understanding of the car, I still have this stumble.

The good news is I have put my euro lights on so am very happy with those.
thanks
m
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Martin Ingram
Colorado Springs
2005 320 CDI
2006.5 VW Jetta TDI
1991 560SEL (179000 Sold)
1972 280SEL 4.5 ('The Lead Sled' 320000 miles when sold.)
1972 220D (225000 when sold)
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  #64  
Old 07-06-2003, 06:43 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Gainesville FL
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Have you dealt with the vertical positioning on the plate? The plate should have a 2-3mm drop with freeplay before hitting the dist plunger (it will be significantly harder if done against fuel pressure - fuel pump by-passed - try it with fuel pressure and the engine off).

The position when it hits the plunger should be at the base of the vertical wall the plate moves against in the off position.
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Steve Brotherton
Continental Imports
Gainesville FL
Bosch Master, ASE Master, L1
33 years MB technician
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  #65  
Old 07-06-2003, 06:57 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2002
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Steve, That is exactly where it is I have a little play then hit the plunger. Maybe 1 or 1.5 mm. The plate is level with the wall at the base when fuel pressure is on via bypass.
m
__________________
Martin Ingram
Colorado Springs
2005 320 CDI
2006.5 VW Jetta TDI
1991 560SEL (179000 Sold)
1972 280SEL 4.5 ('The Lead Sled' 320000 miles when sold.)
1972 220D (225000 when sold)
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  #66  
Old 07-06-2003, 07:09 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Gainesville FL
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Have you replaced the injectors? Describe how the problem feels. What rpm? How often? Hot or cold? When does it go away? Is it consistent or random? Is it a single cylinder misfire or more or is it a systematic lack of power?
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Steve Brotherton
Continental Imports
Gainesville FL
Bosch Master, ASE Master, L1
33 years MB technician
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  #67  
Old 07-06-2003, 07:15 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 481
all new injectors about 6 months ago.
The symptoms:
When at full stop I accelerate hard the car will stall or at least try. If I accelerate slowly it has no problem. To prevent it over rich the car or unplug the EHA. Either will stop the stall but I still have a perceptable stumble on acceleration from stop.
thanks
m
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Martin Ingram
Colorado Springs
2005 320 CDI
2006.5 VW Jetta TDI
1991 560SEL (179000 Sold)
1972 280SEL 4.5 ('The Lead Sled' 320000 miles when sold.)
1972 220D (225000 when sold)
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  #68  
Old 07-06-2003, 09:07 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Gainesville FL
Posts: 6,844
Could be ignition. Have you done any thing with the ignition? It is my experience that with everything else right the acceleratio enrichment can be done without. By richening the mix the required voltahe is reduced. This could be a clue.
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Steve Brotherton
Continental Imports
Gainesville FL
Bosch Master, ASE Master, L1
33 years MB technician
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  #69  
Old 07-06-2003, 09:54 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 481
you know steve, I was thinking this as well but was not sure if it could really cause this. What should I test first the coil. and how does one test a coil. The wires, distributor, and plugs are all good and have all been replaced in the last year.
m
__________________
Martin Ingram
Colorado Springs
2005 320 CDI
2006.5 VW Jetta TDI
1991 560SEL (179000 Sold)
1972 280SEL 4.5 ('The Lead Sled' 320000 miles when sold.)
1972 220D (225000 when sold)
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  #70  
Old 07-07-2003, 05:11 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 64
So you've checked the distributor cap and rotor? The cap can crack and thanks to the black plastic cover over the cap you can't see this externally. Could be arcing to ground.
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  #71  
Old 07-07-2003, 08:49 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 481
I pulled the cap and rotor there is no strange arching or black spots, certainly no cracks that are noticeable.
m
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Martin Ingram
Colorado Springs
2005 320 CDI
2006.5 VW Jetta TDI
1991 560SEL (179000 Sold)
1972 280SEL 4.5 ('The Lead Sled' 320000 miles when sold.)
1972 220D (225000 when sold)
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  #72  
Old 07-07-2003, 08:58 AM
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Location: Gainesville FL
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Yes, cap and rotor and specifically rotor. Be sure they are Bosch! If the rotor has no writing on it toss it!!

The coil is hard to test for what you are looking, without a secondary ignition scope. While looking at the scope watching firing lines at 10-15kv one then pulls any plug wire and watches the open circuit potential. If the line stays the same one of two things has happened. Either the increased potential found an out of cylinder low voltage path to ground between the coil and the wire or the coil does not have the capacity to deliver the spark its rated to. It should give a spike at around 30kv. BTW don't unplug that wire with unshielded pliers - ZAP!!! One way to have a shielded plier is to attach a ground wire to the pliers and engine ground. But, the wire does not need to be pulled with engine running. Just shut it off and then restart and observe.
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Steve Brotherton
Continental Imports
Gainesville FL
Bosch Master, ASE Master, L1
33 years MB technician
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  #73  
Old 07-07-2003, 01:07 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 481
looks like she is heading to the shop for that as I do not have the right equipment.
Cap and rotor are both bosch.
__________________
Martin Ingram
Colorado Springs
2005 320 CDI
2006.5 VW Jetta TDI
1991 560SEL (179000 Sold)
1972 280SEL 4.5 ('The Lead Sled' 320000 miles when sold.)
1972 220D (225000 when sold)
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  #74  
Old 07-25-2003, 01:21 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 481
It Works!!!!!

Okay, so I bought a new coil (bosch) popped it in and voila she is back to her old self. I can not believe it. SO to recap what caused it (I think), what I did to it in the process of fixing it and what the actual fix was.

I originally washed the engine. 2 days later I took it into the shop to get emissions adjusted after I had replaced the injectors. The car ran great, the shop noted that my duty cycle was all screwed up and not reading correctly so they adjusted to exhaust gases. She still ran fine but, I was concerned about the duty cycle(lambda). A day after this my the car started to stall on acceleration; worse when cold but still stalled/stumbled when warm. I thought it was the fuel system due to the screwy readings so I disconnected the eha and the car was functional in that she did not stall anymore just stumbled occasionally. I am now convinced it is my fuel system. Took it to the shop they replaced the o2 sensor and OVP still nothing is right. I replaced the idle potentiometer still no help, I check the EHA after much fumbling around and am actually getting a good reading so. I am at a loss, I buy a used air sensor unit on ebay replace the rubber duct and throttle switch and cross my fingers still nothing. I decide what the hell replace the coil. Bingo stumble/stall is gone hard start is gone. I have learnt a lot after spend $350 on parts i did not need before spending the $125 on the part I did need. However, all my rubber is new on the engine and i won't need any new fuel parts anytime soon (I hope).

Anyway to those out there that helped thanks. A special thanks to steve for helping through the whole thing and teaching me how fuel injection works on my car and having the patience to explain everything to me. I hope this helps some one out there.
m
__________________
Martin Ingram
Colorado Springs
2005 320 CDI
2006.5 VW Jetta TDI
1991 560SEL (179000 Sold)
1972 280SEL 4.5 ('The Lead Sled' 320000 miles when sold.)
1972 220D (225000 when sold)
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  #75  
Old 07-25-2003, 08:34 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Gainesville FL
Posts: 6,844
I might have fixed it quicker and cheaper, but you would never have had all this FUN!

The success of a game played to the hilt surpasses money!
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Steve Brotherton
Continental Imports
Gainesville FL
Bosch Master, ASE Master, L1
33 years MB technician
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