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  #1  
Old 03-12-2000, 02:10 PM
Sean Thom
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I don't have an owners manual and can't seem to find one anywhere. And a dash operating manual would be helpful. (This is my first Mercedes and I don't know what all the buttons and knobs do, or what they are supposed to do!) Also, any products available that can put the shine back in my chrome trim? This car is in great shape bet it sat outside and was forgoten for 5 or 6 years and the chrome is pretty dull! I have tried Turtle wax and a couple of differant polishes bet it is still pretty dull!
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  #2  
Old 03-12-2000, 09:52 PM
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Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Suwanee, GA, USA
Posts: 4,712
The 123 CD's we sell do have the info on all of the workings of the knobs and all. You can get one through the partsshop. We sell the Flitz. It is supposed to be the best for metal polish.

------------------
Benzmac:
1981 280GE SWB
1987 16V
ASE CERTIFIED MASTER AUTO TECHNICIAN
SERVICE MANAGER FOR 14 BAY FACILITY
MERCEDES SPECIALIST 8 YRS
PARTNER IN MERCEDESSHOP.COM


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  #3  
Old 03-12-2000, 10:30 PM
Sean Thom
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Thanks A million! I have called at least ten dealers and they all want too much money and 2-4 weeks to get something. I still would like an orig owners manual!
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  #4  
Old 03-12-2000, 11:02 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Gainesville FL
Posts: 6,844
quote:
Originally posted by Benzmac:
The 123 CD's we sell do have the info on all of the workings of the knobs and all. You can get one through the partsshop. We sell the Flitz. It is supposed to be the best for metal polish.




He seems to have a 114 chassis. I think MB is selling the 114/115 CD at 1-800-FOR-MERCEDES. They have been mostly out of stock, although I recently got 126 and 124 orders through.



------------------
Steve Brotherton
Owner 24 bay BSC
Bosch Master, ASE master L1
26 years MB technician
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  #5  
Old 03-12-2000, 11:10 PM
Sean Thom
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Do I need a 123cd or a 114-115cd?? Also, the chrome I'm trying to bring back is only around the windows. The bumpers and grill are almost perfect! The moldings around the windows are also just about shot, is there anything I can do besides taking the winshield etc out?
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  #6  
Old 03-12-2000, 11:40 PM
Larry Delor's Avatar
What, Me Worry?
 
Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: Sarasota, Fl.
Posts: 3,077
Hi,
To check which CD you need, you'll need to check which chassis you have. Either lift the hood and check the metal plate in the center...its has a bunch of numbers stamped into it. I think the ones toward the top left are your chassis numbers. One of these will either be 114.xxx or 115.xxx or 123.xxx

You can also look on the drivers door jamb and see what the numbers tell you there, it will also list the month and year of manufacture. It can be useful to remember the month as many times changes were made during the year (especially after holidays) and a part or parts maybe different.

Oh, and good luck with your solex, the rebuild kit I have lists over 100 parts, and the little baggie itself seems to contain about close to half of them.

-Larry

------------------
03/83 300D
07/73 280


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  #7  
Old 03-12-2000, 11:52 PM
Sean Thom
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The plate says 114-116, I asume it is a 114 chassis, and the car was made in 12 of 74. What is the solex kit?
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  #8  
Old 03-12-2000, 11:55 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Gainesville FL
Posts: 6,844
quote:
Originally posted by Larry Delor:
Hi,
To check which CD you need, you'll need to check which chassis you have. Either lift the hood and check the metal plate in the center...its has a bunch of numbers stamped into it. I think the ones toward the top left are your chassis numbers. One of these will either be 114.xxx or 115.xxx or 123.xxx

You can also look on the drivers door jamb and see what the numbers tell you there, it will also list the month and year of manufacture. It can be useful to remember the month as many times changes were made during the year (especially after holidays) and a part or parts maybe different.

Oh, and good luck with your solex, the rebuild kit I have lists over 100 parts, and the little baggie itself seems to contain about close to half of them.

-Larry




75 280 ... sounds like 114.060 to me.

Never mind the number of parts. I fixed plenty of those carbs in warrantee and MB had at least a hundred different ideas how!!



------------------
Steve Brotherton
Owner 24 bay BSC
Bosch Master, ASE master L1
26 years MB technician
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  #9  
Old 03-13-2000, 12:55 AM
Larry Delor's Avatar
What, Me Worry?
 
Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: Sarasota, Fl.
Posts: 3,077
I guess I should've known...a 114.060 just like my '73. I suppose that motor is esentially the same too (110.016). I haven't had the chance to drive it yet, as I still need to do the rebuild -carb leaks like a sieve- how about I send it to you
About how long would you say it would take to do a rebuild on that particular carb...any hints or precautions, special tool(s)?
Thanks
-Larry

Sean, I have the manuals for my '73...if you have any questions, I can look it up.
------------------
03/83 300D
07/73 280




[This message has been edited by Larry Delor (edited 03-12-2000).]
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  #10  
Old 03-13-2000, 08:33 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Gainesville FL
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Rebuilding? Kits? I have fixed hundreds of these carbs and never rebuilt a one of them. Most of my procedures were similar but all started with a good test drive and enough external testing to expect a specific problem and go for it.

The biggest problem the carb had was lean hesitations and the secondary air valve stumble. The needle and seat (pressed in) will come out of the base shutting down fuel also.

MB had a bunch of modifications to try and make the later emmision cars work...none of them were very successful.

Almost all the running problems can be delt with through only the removal of the carb top. Needle and seat can be verified, float level adjusted (the height of the top of the gas should be 5mm from the top). Main jet, and idle jets and air correction holes all can be cleaned. The full activity of the secondary air valve can be repaired; the shaft passes through the top in three spots and the top is usually warped causing the shaft to bind. A little attention to the shaft and holes can clean this up if the top isn't too badly warped (watch those 8mm nuts on reassemble). The main jets should be verified at 100 taking them to 105 solves everything but fuel mileage and emmisions, many of the jets were undersized - they have probably been fixed somewhere along the line.

Now that the cars are over twenty-five years old a number of failures cause new problems: all the vacuum diaphrams (choke pull-off, secondary air valve, and idle stabilization)are failing or have failed. Accelerator pump diaphrams leak/don't pump fuel. The plastic cam controlling secondary metering rods wears out or brakes - it is unavailable.

All the parts except the plastic cam are available from MB individually.


------------------
Steve Brotherton
Owner 24 bay BSC
Bosch Master, ASE master L1
26 years MB technician
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