I don't think your reply about the loose timing chain on my 300SD was correct. You said that a loose chain was OK. This is not true, the spring in the tensioner is supposed to take up the slack when engine is not running and at start up until oil pressure is applied to the pressure bolt.
When I took my chain tensioner off I found that the pressure bolt was siezed in the housing thus causing the clearance between the pressure bolt and the chain rail.
Had I taken your advice and not checked the tensioner, I could have done serious damage to the engine.

I read your original question and didn't reply because your explanation made no sense. Obviously if your tentioner isn't pushing the tentioning rail you have a problem. Since I have never seen happen what you describe (in 26 years of MBs repair)I would think it only logical for your question to be misunderstood.

For anyone seriously thinking of major repairs based on internet conversations I have this piece of advise. If you can't be sure take it to a professional. Remember a picture is worth a thousand words and there aren't any pictures here. For those who find guidance and are successful based on these brief conversations more power to you. For those energetic souls that fail just chalk it up to education.

I personally worry a great deal about the level of information I provide. I probably wouldn't give a lot of my explanations to someone paying me because of the liability concerns.

Caveat emptor; especially if you don't pay much. Free advise is just that.

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Steve Brotherton
Owner 24 bay BSC
Bosch Master, ASE master L1
26 years MB technician

[This message has been edited by stevebfl (edited 03-31-2000).]

I may be confused as to who gave me the information that I condidered wrong. I thought it was Benzmac that said it didn't matter if the chain was loose with the engine stopped. The information that Stevebfl gave me led me to finding the bad (seized) tensioner. Thanks Steve.
I'm not trying to make a fool out of anyone, but if the information was faulty I hoped I could correct the error. We can all learn from each other.

Steve and Benzmac,
I think the majority of the members tahnk you for your technical advice and guidance. Steve brings up some very good points about the level of knowledge and detail in any free public forum, especially when the true technical experts are sharing their limited time.

I have mentioned this to Benzmac in e-mail, but I will say it again, I have made a personal commitment to comment on personal safety for posts that I make. As an example, one member was going to do an transmission oil change and I jumped in with my usual advice about jackstands, chocks, and another person nearby to help in an emergency. If I read his reply correctly, he asked if four, two ton floor jacks would do the trick! Several other readers jumped in to help this person on what jackstands were.

Moral of the story, many people gamble with technical advice and safety, others are uneducated, and others have a good foundation. After several months of reading this BB, it does not take too long to figure out who has a pretty good idea of how MB's work, and all other advice should be treated with caution. For first timers, every aspect can not be covered, and what is obvious to a tenured mechanic, may not be obvious to a DIY'er. But that is what makes it fun, and why it is so helpful to have so many different opinions!

Thanks to all members who contibute questions and answers!

Your unofficial safety Rep,

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Deezel
87 300TDT
150,000 miles

What does TDT stand for in 300TDT? I think the first T is for a wagon and the D is for diesel, but what does the second T stand for?

I have seen many engines that when stopped, they will rock back a little, thus creating a little slack in the chain. I think I said (not sure though) You should turn the crank clockwise and see if the chain does tighten up. This is what I would do. Thanks for the clarification.

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Benzmac:
1981 280GE SWB
1987 16V
ASE CERTIFIED MASTER AUTO TECHNICIAN
SERVICE MANAGER FOR 14 BAY FACILITY
MERCEDES SPECIALIST 8 YRS
PARTNER IN MERCEDESSHOP.COM

I see MB ads from time to time using DT for sedan turbo diesel and TD for Transport (wagon) Diesel. I would think TDT stand for Transport Turbo Diesel.

David

I turned the enging many times because I was adjusting the valves and the chain was always loose. The chain was loose because the tensioner pressure bolt was sized in the chain tensioner housing. The MB manual says the spring in the tensioner housing is supposed to keep chain tight when there is no oil pressure.

I'm sure glad I found this before I leave for the left coast next week.

The first T stands for Wagen
The D stands for Diesel
The Second T stands for turbo