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  #1  
Old 09-06-2003, 03:43 AM
wielder of thor's hammer
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 321
argh!!! more 300e problems

I was driving my 87 300e today and when I turned the a/c on it reeked of burning oil. I had smelled this faintly before, but now it has become much worse. I lose 1 qt. of oil every 750 miles, but there's no sign of leaks after a thorough degreasing and removal of the plastic undercarriage guard. I can't even get to my spark plugs to check if I have faulty valve guide seals because the wires won't come off the plugs (probably melted on b/c car ran hot constantly). Then, I get to where I'm going and exit the car only to find that the entire casing for my left directional is hanging off the car by the wires connected to the bulb (the plastic clips broke off the casing). After that I opened the right backseat door and it would not close. I ended up snapping the metal strip that keeps the door from swinging open freely, just to close the door. Tomorrow I am going to drive the car into the nearest large body of water. Can anyone help me?
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  #2  
Old 09-06-2003, 03:34 PM
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Location: Evansville, Indiana
Posts: 8,150
Spark plugs boots will be STUCK -- get the removal tool, a pair of long nosed pliers with semicircular grips to pull on the boot ONLY -- if you pull on the wire, it will come loose and give you spark problems. A common problem. Use some silicone lube when you put them back on so they don't stick again.

Burning oil smell sounds like a leaking valve cover gasket, but if it is worse when the AC is on, you are either getting more sucked in than usual, or the belt is slipping and burning, too. This usually shuts the AC off, though. Check belt tensioner and for oil leaking around the valve cover gasket. A bad oil cap gasked will also leak considerable oil.

A quart of oil in 750 miles down the valve guides will give you blue smoke once in a while, especially on startup.

The smell of burning oil is usually oil burning off the exhaust manifold from valve cover or filler cap gasket leaks. Not much will reach the ground past the manifold.

Check eBay for turn signal lamp housings, I got a pair cheap last year to replace a damaged one on the 300TE. $25 for the pair, I think.

The door check has broken on the door, and is stuck. Costs about $21 on FastLane, a quick and easy fix once you get the door panel off. Instructions are available if you need them.

Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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  #3  
Old 09-07-2003, 03:18 AM
wielder of thor's hammer
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 321
thanks Peter, I was worried I would have trouble finding the door check. I could not find it in fastlane at first b/c I did not know it was called a door check and the picture looks different. I also got the spark plug boots off after considerable effort and a pair of needle nose pliers. I siliconed the turn signal housing in place with fairly good results, we'll see if it holds. I've decided to let the oil problem be, it runs perfect otherwise. At least it will always have clean oil in it. Where would I get directions to remove the door panel?
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  #4  
Old 09-07-2003, 02:30 PM
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Location: Evansville, Indiana
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Check of oil around the valve cover gasket and filler (athough I'm sure there is plenty there from spillage at the moment!). Clean it all up and then drive it to see if more accumulates.

Valve cover gasket is easy to change -- pull the plug wire tray out (tape it together to keep the wires in place), then remove the screws (six, I think) that hold the cover down. Wriggle it out, then pull the gasket off. Probably rock hard with cracks all along the sealing edge, they die pretty fast in this particular engine.

Clean the seating surface with solvent -- it must be completely clean and dry, no oil or dirt. Install the new gasket on the valve cover -- it just presses on, no sealant, please.

Wriggle cover back into place, then double check gasket installation on cover to make sure it isn't rolled over somewhere. Lift cover slightly and thump it down on the head, repeating until it makes a solid "clop" indicating the gasket is all the way onto the cover. You'll hear it. Re-install screws and tighten gently, great pressure will only cut the casket or warp the cover.

Also, wipe the filler cap and opening completely clean and watch for seepage -- if the gasket has a groove in in, it will leak, up to a quart in 500 miles. Ditto for a missing gasket here.... New ones are cheap, so is a new cap. Make cure most of the oil consupmtion.

These engiens run so clean, by and large, that the oil drops are clear from leakage, not black -- took me a while to notice them in my gravel drive!

Door panel comes off as follows:

Carefully remove the power seet switch knobs (front door) -- they pry off. Don't drop the headrest knob, it will vanish. Pry off the black plastic covers around the top of the armrest, rear part first. They just snap in. Push the black plastic "cup" that holds the door latch lever forward until it unclips, the use a small screwdriver and lift the operating rod out of the lever. Remove latch lever assembly.

Remove the screw at the top of the armrest (10mm), the two screws at the latch plate and the latch plate trim, and the lock button. On rear doors, remove the ash tray and the trim behind, it prys out top first (I think). On front doors, remove the triagluar trim at the front window bottom corner. Be carefull, the top clip usually breaks off. You will likely find some adhesive holding it on instead. You can leave it loose on the mirror lever on the driver's side.

Pull door panel STRAIGHT up, do NOT pry outwards on it (I found the remains of the hooks in the TE where someone pried out and broke them). There are four or so plastic hooks that hold the panel on. Watch for wires, there is usually a lamp in the bottom of the door, and speaker wires up front. You can leave them hang if you are carefull.

Peel the plastic liner back. Door check is held on by three screws, one behind the panel and the other two on the front outer edge of the door. The strap is held on by a pin with a retainer clip on the bottom. Push the clip of and carefully drive the pin up and out with a small hammer. Remove screws and pull check out.

You will find, usually, that the side screws is loose -- mine was completely out on the 300D -- and the resulting stress has broken the 'ears' off the check, or that the spring inside is broken and the large ball bearings are in the bottom of the door. Either way, clean up any bits so the don't rattle, and install the new check. On the front doors, make sure you get the vac and wiring lines in the right place, they tend to get between the check and the door at the front. Tighten the screws up, and re-install the plastic sheet and door panel. If the plastic is in back shape, replace it with antoher pieces of heavy plastic sheet, cut to fit. 3M adhesive works great to hold it.

Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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  #5  
Old 09-10-2003, 10:52 PM
wielder of thor's hammer
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 321
I checked the plugs and no sign of oil on them, doesn't this mean the problem can not be the valve cover gasket, I got that impression from others on the forum. Thanks again for all the help, Peter. I'm going to tackle the door panel this weekend, hopefully.
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  #6  
Old 09-11-2003, 05:58 AM
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Location: Newcastle upon Tyne, UK
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Quote:
I checked the plugs and no sign of oil on them, doesn't this mean the problem can not be the valve cover gasket, I got that impression from others on the forum.
No. Oil on the plugs might be due to a leaking head gasket, but not the valve cover gasket. No oil on the plugs is good news!

As Peter has described, changing the valve cover gasket is a cheap DIY job, or an inexpensive job for a tech. The head gasket, worn valve guides, worn piston rings would all create high oil consumption and create a large bill for you. It sounds like yours is the simple, cheap fix!
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  #7  
Old 09-11-2003, 10:44 AM
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The next place I would look for burning oil is a transmission leak with fluid blowing back onto the exhaust system.
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  #8  
Old 09-11-2003, 08:36 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Evansville, Indiana
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Burning tranny fluid (if the dino type) smells like smoldering candle wicks to me.

No oil on the outside of the plugs or no oil on the electrodes? The oil from a leaking valve cover gasket tends to run down the side of the head to the exhaust rather than down into the spark plug pockets.

Peter
__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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  #9  
Old 09-11-2003, 11:08 PM
wielder of thor's hammer
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 321
no oil anywhere on the plugs, electrodes or on the outside, thank goodness.
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  #10  
Old 09-12-2003, 01:06 AM
wielder of thor's hammer
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 321
on a less serious note, anyone know what i can do about a wiper that leaves a big wet unwiped area in the middle of the windshield. I already put in a new rubber refill, and it's no better. The blade just archs too much in the middle and doesn't contact the windshield well enough to move any water. Sorry for being such a pain, everyone. I'm just hopelessly anal about cars (I doubt I'm the only one) and want everything to work perfectly.
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  #11  
Old 09-12-2003, 01:30 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Seattle WA USA
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Take the rubber blade out (with the two metal strips). Turn the metal strips the other direction and reinsert. The strips have a natural bend in them...they should be in toward the windshield in the center - and should not follow the curve of the windshield. IOW, the opposite of the way you think they should go.
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  #12  
Old 09-15-2003, 02:36 AM
wielder of thor's hammer
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 321
huh?

my wiper is plastic, except for the jointed black piece that has the clips that kind of look like this { except they face downward, for the two strips to slide into. That's not the part your speaking of, is it? When I turn that around the wiper is to long and hangs off the windshield. Maybe I'm just suffering the consequences of buying a cheaper, plastic wiper refill. I'll check fastlane for metal ones.
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  #13  
Old 09-15-2003, 03:30 AM
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dirtysocks

The correct length wiper blade (with rubber insert) can make all the difference in properly sweeping the windshield area.

If you are in doubt of the actual wiper arm, look closely on the arm and it should be marked with a 124 designating the one for the 300E series.

Haasman
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