Strange Problem

[drbrandini]

My ABS light has been coming on intermittently. I know the OVP often gives signs of failure via the ABS light but I am uncertain since I have the non-troublesome OVP. I haven't heard anything here about changing the non-troublesome OVP (being one not made by siemens).

Searching through the archive is what turned me on to the notion that the OVP may be my problem. I have been noticing an intermitten stumbling at idle. As well as intermitten non-operation of my cruise control. I understand both of these are symptoms of a bad OVP but again I've yet to hear of the non-siemen OVP going bad, though it is an electronic part which is bound to go sooner or later.

I've recently had a complete valve job done and my mechanic told me to change the fuel injectors and I would notice an immediate difference in idle. ( his suggestion, I didn't even ask). So I did, though it is an improvement and the old ones looked terrible I still have the intermitten stumble and what seems to be a sluggeshness to the motor, as well as the intermitten ABS light coming on. I'm not sure if its related or not but my mechanic also told me that the injectors would fix my cars problem of not starting on the first crank. (It always takes two.) Or is that the fuel accumulator??? Anyhow thanks for your help in this matter.

[joe p]

Well, the OVP will cause some of that. The 2 times crank is dependant on if its cold or hot. The accumulator will cause a long crank hot and is easy to test, just pull the vent hose off, if fuel runs out of the accumulator, then its shot.

Most 103's do a start-die cold, the default placement of the idle control valve is closed and its take a second for them to open. If thats the condition, try leaving the key on for 15 seconds prior to starting and see if that takes care of it, if it does, try cleaning and lubeing the ICS valve.

The OVP will drop lambda control and play games with the ACC and idle control as well. (dependant on year), there are also a couple of vacuum lines on the side of the throttle body that'll leak and a closed throttle switch on the back on the intake that can and will fail causing intermitent weird idle.




Joe

[drbrandini]

Thanks Joe,

My car does exactly what you said, start for a split second then die, then start right up on the second try. Where is the vent hose on the accumulator so I can try that??

[y2kimmel]

I'm not sure if it affects the idle or starting, but I know I had an ABS light and inoperative Cruise Control because of a bad stop lamp switch. This is a small module that sits behind the brake pedal. I think it's about $20, and takes around 10 minutes to replace.

Not sure if it's worth a shot - but I just replaced one on my 1995 E420 and it sured my car's ills.

Best of luck,
Troy
1995 E420 71k

[joe p]

If you crawl under the car and look for the fuel pump you'll see a round "stepped" device with a couple if lines attached to one end and a single 6mm line clamped to the other, the clamped line is the vent. Clamp it off, remove it and look for fuel leakage from that point on the accumulator. (I say clamp as if it is leaking, the line will be full of gas, high test in your pit sucks)


Joe

[drbrandini]

Joe,

Thanks I'll try that.

This morning on the way to work the ABS light came on once again. I immediately tried the cruise control but it would'nt work. This afternoon on the way home the ABS light wasn't lit but the car stumbled a few times while idling at the first stop light I came to. I've also notice that my oil pressure seems to drop more than it use to when Ideling at a stoplight. Its dropping to the 1 bar and the car is ideling at 700 RPM. I think I may have more than one problem which I think is leading ME to blow a gasket. All this only a week and a half after spend 1500 for a complete valve job and new fuel injectors.

[drbrandini]

After reading some in the archive It seems my oil pressure is normal especially considering its due for an oil change. It usually only takes a few seconds to shoot up to the 3 bar level.