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Old 11-20-2003, 01:16 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Orlando
Posts: 79
Rear Subframe Bushings

I am about to begin the process of replacing the suspension parts on my 1992 300 E (150,000 miles). I am starting with the replacement of my shock and struts. As I have the Klann spring compressor I figured that I would also replace the rear subframe bushings.

In reading the numerous posts I am unclear whether on the rear subframe there is just one bushing/mount or each side or two for a total of four.

I initially thought only one on each side but looking at fast lane catalogue it appears there are subframe mounts and the bushing kit with two(2) bushings.

So can anyone confirm that for the rear subframe there is

a) a subframe mount (1 on each side) on the rear of the rear subframe, and

b) a subframe bushing kit that provides for a bushing to be installed ( 1 on each side) at the front of of the rear subframe.

Am I reading this right I need to purchase both the the subframe bushing kit (2 bushings) and two (2) subframe mounts?

I will either buy the bushing tool or make my own threaded rod push/pull.

Thanks for the input.

(As I do it I will take and post pictures)

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Old 11-21-2003, 10:31 AM
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Alberta
Posts: 267
I did this on my W201 190D. It uses the same parts as the W124, so I would expect the procedure to be similar. I posted the procedure and parts list at Rear axle carrier (subframe) mounts / ball joints ('84 190D)

There are a total of 4 bushings on the rear axle, two on each side. One is in front of the axle and one is behind. They're pictured in the attached file; the front one is labeled 1A and the rear one is 1B.

The terms subframe mount and subframe bushing seem to be interchangeable, from what I could tell when ordering mine. The MB dealer actually called them rear carrier mounts (in case you come across that term too).

The kit I bought did the front set of bushings, it included two each of the parts labeled 1A, 1E and 1F in the diagram. I didn't do the rear, but I believe Mercedes sells a similar kit for the rear pair of bushings.

Anyway, you'll need two of each part in the attached diagram.

Attached Thumbnails
Rear Subframe Bushings-subframe.gif  

1989 250TD Wagon 5-speed, 160,000mi ::: Dark gray metallic / black cloth
1984 190D-2.2 5-speed, 287,000mi ::: Silver-blue metallic / black MB-tex ::: SOLD
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Old 11-22-2003, 05:35 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Monrovia, CA
Posts: 496

Great DIY article! Thanks for going to the effort to do that.

Any idea what tool the factory specifies for bushing R&R? Can it be rented anywhere?

Also, does anyone know where on the service CD I can find the subframe bushing replacement pages?


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Old 11-22-2003, 02:45 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Orlando
Posts: 79
Thanks Cornblatt.

Unfortunately my adobe acrobat reader is messed up and I can't open it right now. I will work on it.
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Old 11-22-2003, 06:28 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Orlando
Posts: 79
I rewinstalled the adobe reader and i am able to read your instructions. Great job.
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Old 11-23-2003, 09:01 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Joliet Illinois
Posts: 309
Working on Same Problem

The rear subframe mounts on my wife's '92 300e completely failed and I'm in the process of replacing them right now. It seems that the big washer below both of the forward mounts corroded away and the rubber inside of the mounts tore away. The rear axle was "jumping" under hard braking.

Anyway, Fastlane's kit for the front subframe mounts is about $80 and includes both front mounts. I went to the dealer and they wanted $135 each and they only had one in stock so I decided to order the parts from Fastlane.

I took one on the mounts out today and it did not go very smooth. I tried making my own puller out of steel plates and treaded rod but the inside of the old mount was so torn and corroded I couldn't get a grip on the bottom edge of the old mount to pull it out. I ended up mutilating the mount and plan to do the same on the other side. I drove two cold chisels under the top flange until the inner shell of the mount popped out, then to remove the outer shell I drove a chisel vertically along the outer edge to deform it. This, in effect reduces the diameter and it comes out easily. I spend 1 1/2 hours trying various means to remove the first mount. We'll see how the second one goes.

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