Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help




Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum > Technical Information and Support > Tech Help

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 12-08-2003, 03:05 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Ontario
Posts: 37
Angry Longer travel of brake pedal after system flushed

Hello all,

Flushed the system during the weekend and now the pedal has to go farther almost to the end for stopping.

During flushing, i had pushed the pedal to the bottom several times. Did i kill the master cylinder? Is there a way to check it? Is replacing it a DIY job?

Had changed all screws to Speedbleeder so i assume this is not air in system issue.

Thanks in advance for your help. Have a nice day.

John
-------------------------------------------
92 300E 4Matic 135,582 KM
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 12-08-2003, 03:11 PM
I told you so!
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Motor City, MI
Posts: 2,791
Did the reservoir at the master cylinder ever go dry during bleeding?
__________________
95 E320 Cabriolet, 140K
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 12-08-2003, 05:04 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Ontario
Posts: 37
Hi Kestas,

No, i'd siphoned off the old fluid then filled up the reservoir with fresh. And checked the level after bleeding one side.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 12-08-2003, 05:36 PM
I told you so!
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Motor City, MI
Posts: 2,791
First, check the master cylinder by stomping on the brakes with the engine at idle. If the brake pedal creeps to the floor under steady pressure, you need to replace the master cylinder. If it doesn't creep, then you still have air in the lines that need to be bled out.

I don't know if pushing the pedal to the bottom killed the master cylinder. Some report it can, so maybe that's what happened. I do it all the time though (I take my chances).
__________________
95 E320 Cabriolet, 140K
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 12-08-2003, 06:44 PM
glenmore's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 963
You might check all your Speedbleeders and make sure they are not leaking.

After switching to speedbleeders all was fine until my son found one of the rubber caps in the driveway. I thought "Uh Oh!".

Sure enough one of the bleeders had a very small leak. I had it replaced but the threads in the caliper were just slightly sloppy. I used some teflon thread tape and that snugged them up just enough and no more leaks.

glenmore
1991 300CE
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 12-08-2003, 11:41 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,141
92 model...

This car has ABS and hence it is recommended to pressure bleed.


Michael
__________________
Michael McGuire
83 300d
01 vw A4 TDI
66 Chevy Corsa
68 GMC V6 w/oD
86 300E
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 12-09-2003, 11:01 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Ontario
Posts: 37
Thumbs up

Thank you all for the help.

I'll check those bleeders as Glenmore suggested.

Michael, does it mean i have to bring the car to a mechanic/dealer to do the pressure bleed since i don't have a pressure bleeder.

Have a good day, dudes.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 12-09-2003, 11:07 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Ontario
Posts: 37
Kestas, forgot to tell you that i tried with your suggestion right after work and the pedal does not go to the bottom. So i assume the cylinder is still fine. I'll crawl under the car this evening to see if there's leaking at the bleeders.

Thanks again to all.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 12-09-2003, 02:02 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,141
If you got air in the abs part of the system -possibly.

The big thing pros have seen since pressure bleeding is you don't run the mc seals accross a section of the bore beyond normal travel. That's the area where all the crude accumulates and hence it can damage the seal(aka reduce MC life).

So, you've got nothing to loose- try again and if it doesn't bleed take it to a pro. Your using DOT 4 fluid correct?

Michael
__________________
Michael McGuire
83 300d
01 vw A4 TDI
66 Chevy Corsa
68 GMC V6 w/oD
86 300E
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 12-10-2003, 12:26 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Ontario
Posts: 37
Red face not one but two !!

Both bleeders at rear are leaking; i remember that i had pressed the pedal a few times after seating each bleeder to ensure no more fluid was coming out from them. Maybe i was trying not to overdo the seating or some teflon tape should be used.

Tightened them a little more and refilled the reservoir with dot 4 fluid and hope the leaking is ended.

Anyway, what's the correct torque for the bleeder screw? Please advise.

Thanks and have a good day.

John
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 12-10-2003, 11:35 AM
glenmore's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 963
John,

Be gentle with the bleeder screws. The originals as well as the Speedbleeders are soft and don't take much to seat them. I overdid my originals and they came out slightly crushed. The reddish brown thread sealant on the Speedbleeders tends to come off easily so I added teflon tape and that solved the problem. My Speedbleeder Installation Notes says:

"When the Speed Bleeder bottoms out, tighten to 32-40 in-lbs torque (not ft-lbs!!!!)" "Don't over tighten"

glenmore
1991 300CE
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:05 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2011 Pelican Parts - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page