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Old 07-26-2000, 11:20 PM
Posts: n/a
Here are my questions:

1) My 76 300D has 120,000 miles on it, and as far as I can tell has never had the transmission serviced (other than the fact it takes several seconds for reverse to engage, the tranny seems strong). I asked several MBZ mechanics if I should service the transmission and I got differing opinions. One says to "leave well enough alone" - if there aren't any problems why upset the current "chemical balance" inside the transmission. The other mechanic tells me to have the transmission serviced immediately, including all new filters and fluid. What do you think?

One other question: the transmission fluid-level is about 1" above the full line on the dip stick. Should I drain some of the fluid?

2) I've been trying to remove the power steering pump belt so I can replace the AC belt on my 76 300D. The front and rear tensioning screw for the pump are already as far as they will go towards the engine (so I can't slide the pump any further towards the crankshaft pulley). At first I thought that the belt might be too short, but it is the correct length (750mm). I can't figure out how this belt was ever put on in the first place! Am I doing something wrong? Should I just cut the old belt off and use a longer new belt? I'm stumped. Please help!
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Old 07-27-2000, 02:10 AM
unkl300d's Avatar
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: San Francisco, Ca
Posts: 2,206
my .02 worth, regular maintainance
will most likely prolong life.
Changing the fluid and filter can't hurt.
I had an american car some time ago with a trans that was never serviced cuz a trans mech. told me that particular unit was best left alone cuz it may leak after a service.
Well at 127K miles it was fine. I donated the car.
Usually it is recommended not to overfill a trans.
good luck
I used to have a '76 240D. Fun! baby blue.

1979 300D
133K miles
1989 300SE
1995 C280
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Old 07-27-2000, 02:17 AM
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: Los Angeles, Calif, USA
Posts: 521
1) I vote for "serviced immediately". Be sure you follow the correct procedures to check the fluid-level: car on level ground; tranny hot; moving the shift level thru R, N, D, 1, 2, and finally P while your foot is firmly on the brake padel and the engine is running; check fluid level now. If you have to wipe the dip strick, use your finger and then clean your finger later.

2) You want to know "how this belt was ever put on (or off) in the first place", here is the way I do it. I will have to warn you that this method is dangerous if you do not do it right. You are on your own. I am not responsible for any damages or injury as a result of doing what I have been doing.

To remove a belt, put a big screw driver tip under the belt before the belt and the pulley meet. The tip of the screw driver sits against the pulley outer edge. Pry the belt a little so the the portion of the belt just before the pulley will line up with the outer edge of the pulley. Have a helper to "tap" the starter. The helper have to skillfully turn the key just enough to turn the engine a little but not enough to start the engine. Instead of using a screw driver, a better way to do this is to bent a hook at one end of a blazing rod. Put the hook under the belt before meeting the pulley and tilt the rod. There is a tool you can buy to put under the belt to archieve the same purpose. But I find the tool is not that effective.

To install the belt, I put the belt in the crank pulley first and then put as much as the belt allow over the "beginning side" of the steering pump pulley. Now use a big stick or screw driver pushing and holding the belt against the pulley. At the same time, have a help to "tap" the starter. I have to be careful now how I am standing. I do not want to lost balance and lost my screw driver once the steering pump start turning. The best way is to tap it in two or three small steps: if the first small tap, the belt catches the pulley and there is no need to pull it with a screw driver; the second or third tap will complete the installation.

In the case that I have to remove other belts in order to change just an A/C belt. It will be my judgement call if I should use these methods to remove/install other belts WITHOUT loosing any mounting/adjustment bolts. The decision is based on the condition of the other belts and the belt tension. Of course, if I break the belts, I have to pay for them.

As always, safety first!

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Old 07-27-2000, 11:36 AM
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Gainesville FL
Posts: 6,844
I vote for servicing.

I vote against rolling the belt on with the starter. That belt will have to be rolled on but I would prefer to turn either the P/S pulley with the shaft nut or if too tight turn the engine from the crank bolt.

Steve Brotherton
Owner 24 bay BSC
Bosch Master, ASE master L1
26 years MB technician
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Old 07-27-2000, 05:06 PM
Posts: n/a
Look on the back side of the P/S pump for a 14mm bolt... Loosen this and the pump will move freely. There may also be a 10mm bolt on the upper side of the rear, this will move the pump side to side to tension the belt if so equiped.

Have the tranny serviced ASAP, otherwise you'll have to do it anyway as well as pay for the tow.

just my $0.02,
good luck,

76 240D (W115) - 550K miles
78 300D (W123) - 200K+ miles
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