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#1
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In looking at another post, I saw a 560sel owner talk about noise in the rear suspension. On my 85 380se I recently noticed a noise as well. Under acceleration, there is a knocking sound on the right rear of the car. After a few seconds, it goes away and it doesn't always happen. It doesn't sound like anything is rubbing, and I have the standard size wheels and tires. This is with no people in the backseat. Any ideas?
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#2
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The large rubber rear subframe mounts do wear out & there are modified ones avail. MB issued SI on this subject in May 1990. Part # 126-351-52-42 lt. side & 126-351-51-42 for the right side
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#3
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The stabilizer links can get very noisey especially after one end separates and connects with rotating parts.
The part is easy to confirm and cheap in price mb# 123 320 09 89 LIST $10.00. ------------------ Steve Brotherton Owner 24 bay BSC Bosch Master, ASE master L1 26 years MB technician |
#4
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Are the rubber rear subframe mounts and the stabilizer links the only wear items on a 1984 300SD? How would these affect my handling? My rear end seems a bit too loose and vague for my liking. thanks
------------------ Robert W. Roe 1984 300SD 170K mi |
#5
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How could rubber rear subframe mounts and the stabilizer links affect handling? Are these common things to wear out? I'm getting close to 171 K miles (1984 300SD).
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#6
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quote: I've noticed it only happens when I am accelerating from a stop while making a left turn ( noise on the right rear). Am I correct to assume the car is pitching to the right and bottom out on the bushing? |
#7
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If is is sort of clicking like something is rubbing against a rotating part, it could possibly be a worn out CV joint in one of the rear axle shafts.
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#8
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That is what it sounds like. How serious is something like that? The car only has 94K on it and it is in mechanically good shape. It only does it on the right side and it stops after about 2 seconds, as soon as the car levels out after accelerating.
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#9
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Since the car is 15 yr old & rubber bushings do wear, have the rear mounts checked for wear. If you notice I posted they were modified in 1990, & you can order on 1 if needed.
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#10
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Well now that you have fully explained the symptoms, you need to reread my original reply. You have a stabilizer link that has come apart at one end and its beating against the wheel or axle. The part is MB# 123 320 09 89 and list for $10 each; replace both sides. Its an easy job with the wheel off.
------------------ Steve Brotherton Owner 24 bay BSC Bosch Master, ASE master L1 26 years MB technician [This message has been edited by stevebfl (edited 07-28-2000).] |
#11
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Thanks to all who replied. Stabilizer links it is. Is this something a backyard mechanic like me can do? I have access to a lift.
[This message has been edited by Webmaster (edited 07-28-2000).] |
#12
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Thanks for all the replies. If I get the rear subframe bushings done, is there anything else that should logically be replaced at the same time "while they're in there"? Also, is this a labor intensive job? Thanks,
Bob |
#13
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I've noticed the following: when taking a long sweeping curve at speed, my rear end feels like it's not perfectly damped/planted/controlled/tight... Also, when I get out of the driver's seat, I hear a squeak coming from the left rear wheel. Also, when hitting bumps, I hear squeaks seemingly coming from the seats or door panels, but these are hard to localize. I have noticed that my front end seems to sit higher than my rear end, but I did R/R the front shocks this past winter. Am I correct in suspecting the rear subframe mounts or might I need shocks also? Thanks,
------------------ Robert W. Roe 1984 300SD 170K mi |
#14
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Can I tell by my vehicle's handling characteristics if I am due for rear shocks or subframe bushings? Thanks,
------------------ Robert W. Roe 1984 300SD 171K mi |
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