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  #1  
Old 04-03-2002, 01:10 AM
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Questions about 1972 250

I have questions about my 1972 250.
[list=1][*]One of my head rest post is broken off. I would like to know how can re-attach it? Or do I have to buy a new one. If I do where can I get one?[*]The driver side "handwheel" that moves the seat up and down is broken. I found the part number for a new one. Can you remove this? Is so how?[*]I took my car to a carburetor repair becuase of a problem with the choke sticking. The car would start great when it was cold but it won't kick down intell the coolant temperature reached 175. If you put the car into gear before this the car would be so much torque I think I might have to buy a new neck!! I just hope that he doesn't break anything!! When I called him today he said that the car ran fine and that he would be taking the carb. apart to look more into, and then he told that the parts are hard to fine for these older MBZ carbs. And then told me how the choke looks in these carbs. I just hope it can be fixed for very little so that I can drive the car and not have to buy a gas station! [/list=1]



Thanks for your help!!

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Old 04-03-2002, 02:20 AM
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The headrest post is fastened into the headrest with a 6MM bolt and cylinder arrangement that allows the headrest to pivot. Sometimes, one of these bolts works loose allowing the post to separate from the headrest. You will need to remove the headrest from the seatback. There's 2 spring latches inside the seatback you will need to press to remove the posts. Then unzip the headrest cover and work through the crevice into the headrest with a box end wrench - a real pain. Having fingers like 'ET' helps!

The seat recliner knob on my 250 has a center cover. If you can get that cover off there should be a screw in the center of the knob.
Maybe you could wait until you get the new knob to see what I'm talking about.

Are the chokes getting power? They're electrically heated. Maybe they only need cleaning and adjustment. Perhaps the fast idle can be adjusted down below 'neck snapping' speed. I hope your mechanic can check all this out before he starts throwing 'hard to find' parts at it.

Happy Motoring, Mark
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Old 04-03-2002, 12:22 PM
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I did see the ziper on the headrest. (Stupid Question) how do unzip it?

I found the part number for the center cover of the seat recliner knob, I think I'm going to order two fo them and then try to replace before of them.

I was thinking that they only need to be clean ( Since the car has only 90 thousand miles on it, I would think the carbs should go a little bit longer then that. I will post agin when I found out what the guy says is wrong.

Another question: When I slow down to stop the car, the speedo
bounces up and down !(Sometimes), any ideas on how to fix this?


Thanks for all the information

Last edited by hippie_elmo; 04-03-2002 at 12:38 PM.
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Old 04-03-2002, 04:17 PM
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Speedometer 'bouncing' is usually a damaged speedometer cable. You could try disconnecting the cable at the back of the speedometer and lubing it. I like to use ATF.
A drop or two on the speedometer shaft wouldn't hurt either.

The tab that unzips the headrest is probably tucked under the vinyl flap that covers the zipper.

Happy Motoring, Mark
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Old 04-03-2002, 05:55 PM
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Thanks for the information. I think I'm going wait on fixing the speedometer. Becuase the clock doesn't work. THis is the non- quartz one. So I'm going to have to look into fixing or replace it.


Thanks,
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  #6  
Old 04-03-2002, 10:56 PM
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I called the place that was fixing the carb. on my car. They said that they haven't gotten around to looking at it. So I went and picked it up. They had the car since Monday and they sais that would have been fixed by Tuesday.
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Old 04-07-2002, 09:36 PM
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Used zeniths can be had for under 40$ on ebay. Likewise kits on ebay go for about 20$. Brand new, a complete rebuild kit is under 60$.

When buying a used zeniths, understand that there are 3 types. The m130 has the bigger ones. Any M130 motor can donate a set of carbs for you (ie 280S, 280/8, 250/8 w/M130). The M180, M108 & M114 motors have a differen size primary & secondary throat.

-CTH
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Old 04-07-2002, 10:08 PM
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I was looking in the manual today. I'm going to take it to my regular repair. To have them make sure the heat risers are working and have them oil them. I also checked the hoses on the vacum system for the timing advance system. They are cracked so I think this could fix the problem that I'm having with the high RPM when the engine is cold.
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Old 04-08-2002, 12:44 AM
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Shea,

The heat risers are easy to check. Just grab the weight and try and rotate it. If you can't then they can't either. If you can, then they're "fine". Visual inspection should reveal that the weight is held by the coiled spring. If the spring is shot/missing, it's replaceable.

Replacing the shaft means taking the manifolds apart and investing about 140$ in parts for both risers and the big gaskets to reattach the intake manifolds.

To add insult to injury, the flaps are welded to the shafts, so machine work to grind off the old flaps and weld time to attach the new ones is required.

-CTH
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Old 04-09-2002, 05:30 PM
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I tried the heat risers seemed to be working ok.

found that there is some oil coming out of the frist carb. gasket. should I replace the gasket?

Can you still buy the emssion control plate that is on the front of the hood?

I was looking at the fuse box today to make sure all the fuesees are good. What fuse number is the one for the rear defroster? I can't find it.

What is the fuse box that is before the main fuse box? There seems to be a very little box that unsrews right before the main fuse box and there is one fuse in mine. (Mine is not a ceramic fuse, should it be?
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Old 04-09-2002, 08:49 PM
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There's no 'oil' that comes fom the carbs. It's probably varnish from gas seepage or possibly oil vapors from the breather hose in the air cleaner.I don't think these gaskets will solve your choke/fast-idle problem.

The rear defroster fuse should be in one of 3 small auxiliary fuse boxes under the hood.
I don't remember which one. I think one box is for AC+aux fan, one for radio+pwr antenna, one for rear defroster.

Happy Motoring, Mark
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Old 04-09-2002, 11:08 PM
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I'm going to have my regular repair shop clean them and make sure the chokes are working and adjust them if needed.

I was thinking that oil was coming from the air cleaner. I'm going to wipe it clean.


Here is a picture of two of the small auxiliary fuse box that is near the main fuse box. I looked in the manual and they don't see anything about them.
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  #13  
Old 04-09-2002, 11:10 PM
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Here is another picture of the one that is attached to the fire wall.
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  #14  
Old 04-09-2002, 11:13 PM
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What is in the picture below? What ever it is, it is attached to the battery tray.

Another question, how do adjust the hood? Mine doesn't close all the way and there is small gap so that water could get in.
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Last edited by hippie_elmo; 04-10-2002 at 12:58 AM.
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  #15  
Old 04-09-2002, 11:47 PM
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Shea,

That's your transistorized ignition unit. Follow the wire from the distributor and it should lead to a small wiring block mounted behind it. From there, the wire goes to the harness for that block. Other wires in the harness go to the coil and the balast resistors.


BTW, that box only works if it's case has contact to ground (from its two bolts usually).

-CTH

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