My beautiful car has been destroyed - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Jay · #16 07-31-2004, 02:21 AM

I'm sorry about your loss. If you get to keep your car after the insurance settelment, I have a very nice -silver 300D with a bad engine that I would like to sell. It has a broken timing chain. Or I would concider buying your car???? I am in Allentown, Pa. Let me know if you are interested. Jay

#17 07-31-2004, 05:47 AM

Very sorry to hear about this...I was just thinking about how it would get to me, even with my car only a couple weeks owned, if it got wrecked or someone ran into me. But then again I guess I know the feeling seeing as how I rolled a 1969 VW Bug that me and my father restored not more than 2 months before the accident. Complete restoration...beautiful car...
I guess its not a total loss...just a lot of crippleness..
my condolences...

MS Fowler · #18 07-31-2004, 06:54 AM

First off, EVERYTHING is repairable ( at least automotively speaking---flesh and bone do not always heal --so I share the sentiment, already expressed, of being glad no one was injured.)
While evrything can be repaired, it is not always economical to do so. the insurance company will look only at trying to settle for as little as possible. You do not have to settle until you are satisfied, after all if the accident was not your fault, why should you suffer any uncompensated loss? You will have to document the condition of your car, and show that cars in similar condition command values much higher than " average book". If there is any distortion to the unibody structure, it can usually be pulled out on a frame machine. A friend of mine who ran a body shop just loved the way unibodies came back into line if pulled correctly. After the basic structure is straight, its simple a matter of cutting out the old sheet metal and welding in new. It can be done; its simply a matter of cost.

Pete Geither · #19 07-31-2004, 07:11 AM

We deal with insurance companies every day and can honestly say that the majority of them are willing to pay the honest current value for your car. The damage looks pretty extensive for the year of the vehicle, and I would be very surprised if they fixed it. I can see that at least the right side has been painted before, and if this indicitive of the whole vehicle, then a complete strip down to bare metal and start over is in order. The trade that a previous poster offered would seem to me to be the best way to go in this case. Sorry, but I think it's time to move on from this one.

Bruce Appel · #20 07-31-2004, 07:20 AM

Wish I had something positive to add, but I think you are in for a tussle with the insurance.Last April we had a horrible hail storm, tore up my roof, tore siding off the house, beat my three cars to hell and back. I am still fighting with the insurance company. In hind sight, if I had it to do over again, I would get a lawyer and let them negotiate.May not be a bad idea in your case.

tjohn · #21 07-31-2004, 09:02 AM

I too am sorry about the damage to your car. Please remember though, that however wonderful they are, they're just things, and, unlike you, can be replaced.

Although I understand the advice to get a lawyer, there's probably not going to be a high enough financial payout to make that cost-effective, unless you had injuries as well. The fair market value of your car prior to the accident was what? $4000 or so tops, right? If you give a lawyer a third of that, you'll be back down to where the insurance company's offer is likely to be.

Turbodiesel's advice is good. You know these cars better than the insurance adjuster. Check the value for cars like yours (rust free, working A/C, etc) on Ebay. It's possible to search completed auctions, so you can get a fair price quickly.

Again, I'm sorry about your car.

Wodnek · #22 07-31-2004, 10:10 AM

It should be repairable. A good shop will "tie" the car down. Weld strips of metal on the quarter, then attach special clamps on it to pull the quarter back out from the same angle it was hit at. When it is close then they cann acess wheather to repair or replace the quarter. It needs to pulled first before just cutting it off as this brings all the other structure back in place. Looking at the apparrent condition of the rest of the car i would probably want it fixed.
my .02

(my father has run a bodyshop since 1973 so i've seen it all.)

nebill · #23 07-31-2004, 01:18 PM

JHZR2:
I restore Model T's as a hobby and when the car is finished it obviously has a value other than "what the market will bear". When I insure a car I take a copy of the Krause publication Old Cars Price Guide and show the agent the value listed. Antique car premimums are based on "declared" value, however I would argue that a 20 year old MB restored or maintained in pristine condition is arguably worth more than "totaled" book value. You can get a monthly copy at places like Barnes & Noble. It has a 6 range of prices based on condition and is based on information on nationally collected data. While it isn't as exact as NADA or Kelley, it does give a good indicator of "collectible" cars value. I would also argue that NADA, etc are guides which represent a used car that has not been brought back to above average condition. My '84 300D is in the same excellent condition of yours and if mine were damaged to that extent and the insurance company wanted to total the car, I would present the insurance agent with receipts of money invested, as well as the Old Cars Price Guide range of value based on a "collectible" car. I would also give them any photographs which show the condition. You should strongly let them know that this was your pride and joy, not some run of the mill used car.

JHZR2 · #24 07-31-2004, 01:22 PM

Thanks, I'll pick one of those up ASAP.

I have found that NADA has a 'classic car' pricing guide, which allows pricing of my 83. The standard guide doesnt price 83 cars.

This guide is mileage independent, and in excellent, usable (non museum, etc.) condition, price can bed as high as $6975

Im going to try and use that as a starting point. There are lots of cars on autotrader that verify such a pricing structure, and on ebay, the high quality CA cars with nice paint typically go for $5000

That'll do a lot of repairs or work...

Thanks,

JMH

nebill · #25 07-31-2004, 01:34 PM

....and for real affect, when the other driver's insurance adjuster comes by to look at your car shed a few tears and emphasize that this was "your baby".

Wouldn't take me much to start bawling if I was telling an insurance adjuster how much I enjoyed my car.:p ...and just look at it now!

#26 07-31-2004, 01:42 PM

Repair it !

kip Foss · #27 08-01-2004, 12:25 AM

JHZR2,

Go to www.collectorcartraderonline.com and check prices. I found 25 1983 300d's listed. They range from $850 to a little over $4,000, most with less miles than yours.

Unless you are a good paint and body man or have access to one I would say that considering the above prices and the miles on yoursI would scrap the car. For the pay out on your car you can get another with 40% less miles on it and probably in as good a condition as yours. Fair enough the new car won't by you 'baby' but it will probably be in pretty good shape.

TimFreeh · #28 08-01-2004, 03:44 PM

Your can can be fixed - it will cost way more than the car is worth.

Get your best insurance settlement and look for a W124 Diesel - You pleasent W123 based memories will fade quickly if you spend some time behind the wheel of a W124.

michakaveli · #29 08-01-2004, 04:45 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by nebill
....and for real affect, when the other driver's insurance adjuster comes by to look at your car shed a few tears and emphasize that this was "your baby". Wouldn't take me much to start bawling if I was telling an insurance adjuster how much I enjoyed my car.:p ...and just look at it now!

Won't do anything. Insurance companies are regulated by the state. Crying won't afect the value of your car. Only tangible and valid information will.

At this point, that car looked awesome, and still does even in this damaged condition. Based upon the numbers your recieve for a value on this one, you might consider upgrading to a w124 or w210.

Granted the w210's have some problems like any other car, as long as you've done your homework you'll be all set. the w210 is such a fun car to work on. You'll be amazed at how quickly your wounds will be healed after driving a 210 diesel, turbo or not!

JHZR2 · #30 08-01-2004, 04:50 PM

my father has one... a 96 non-turbo.

I am shooting for $6900 to start. A bit unreasonable? Sure, but I have multiple vehicles and no need for this one (although it was my daily commuter). I will not settle until satisfied, I will drive a hard line and will be talking to the insurance commisioner of three states as soon as I am dissatisfied. It was not my fault that my car was hit and ruined, but it was my time to make my car what it was, and it is my time that is now wasted to get this all taken care of. The only way that I will recoup a bit of tha anality I had with that car for maintaining it, the improvement I put into it, and the general care and work I put and paid significant dollars for is to be as much of a hardliner as I can. I can judge from experiences people have had on this board and others, that it does not pay to work with these insurance people for the most part.

JMH