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#1
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emergency non diesel related
i am curently working on a friends accord that is in dier need of brakes,well when i tried to remove the lugs they snapped the wheel studs off. now i need to remove the rotor and hub to change the studs but i cant for the life of me get the damn thing off. i removed the nut on the cv shaft i remove the four little bolts behind it and it still wont budge. my two biggest problems are that 1 now he cant drive it and two ITS STUCK IN MY CARPORT so if anyone here can help me get this done i would greatly appreciate it. i know there are a few of you on here that know your way around hondas,so if you can please help me.
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have no worries.....President Obama swears "If you like your gun, you can keep it |
#2
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Have you taken the caliphers off ?
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#3
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yup removed the caliper,the caliper bracket and i removed every thing else that you can think of. i dont see why its stuck on there?
__________________
have no worries.....President Obama swears "If you like your gun, you can keep it |
#4
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On some models of Accord (1996 for certain) the hubs actually have to be pressed out to remove the rotors. This requires removing the whole spindle. If it's just a broken stud, can't you pop the old one out with a large punch and a hammer?
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1982 300D, black w/ palomino leather, 203K 2001 E320, champagne, 105K (Mom's) 1999 Dodge Dakota, squeaky & battered, 142K |
#5
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On my sons's 2000 Accord I had to drill out the two little philips screws that held the rotors on and then improvise a puller by purchasing two small bolts to thread into the two little empty (and a little rusty) holes in the rotors.
I tightened those two bolts evenly until the rotor "popped"off. The retainer screws are available from the dealer, or, actually could be left off because the wheel holds the rotor firmly in place anyway... Removing the center bolt is not necessary when removing the rotor, but will likely be necessary to remove the hub to access the studs. Good luck, and what year Accord are you working on?
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02 S500 92 500SL 92 400E (Sold) 87 300E (Sold) 83 300D Turbo (Sold) 75 300D (Sold) 74 240D (Sold after 20 years) |
#6
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Generically speaking....some studs are pressed in and some are screwed in... would need to know which way it was....
The generic metal working answer to a broken stud is to center punch it ( perhaps have to grind to make a flat.... then drill it out .... quality drill bit, correctly sharpened, and half inch drill typically... AND brace the drill handle so it can't rotate if it catches in the stud.... |
#7
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Quote:
__________________
1982 300D, black w/ palomino leather, 203K 2001 E320, champagne, 105K (Mom's) 1999 Dodge Dakota, squeaky & battered, 142K |
#8
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"impact driver,"
For those of you who may be visualizing a regular air impact gun.... I am pretty sure he is thinking about a Hand Impact Driver.... the saviour of motorcycle mechanics... This is a hunk of steel about 7 inches long and and inch and a half in diamter... it can be set to twist either way.... to get things loose or tighten them.... ITS GREAT POINT is that it provides forward pressure at the same instant that it does the turning.... so things like stuck phillips head screws ( the phillips head was actually designed to limit the torque which could be applied ) can be gotten out... BAM your problem is solved. |
#9
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Of course, I started out using my "Hand Impact Tool" and it immediately rounded off three of the 4 retainer screws. Those things are soft metal like aluminum and aren't worth a flip. At least MB uses strong hex head retainer screws!
A little heat MAY have helped me, but it was no trouble to drill them out. Anyway, we digress from helping our friend with the snapped off studs!
__________________
02 S500 92 500SL 92 400E (Sold) 87 300E (Sold) 83 300D Turbo (Sold) 75 300D (Sold) 74 240D (Sold after 20 years) |
#10
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Quote:
__________________
1982 300D, black w/ palomino leather, 203K 2001 E320, champagne, 105K (Mom's) 1999 Dodge Dakota, squeaky & battered, 142K |
#11
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Quote:
Before we can be of any more assistance with the snapped off studs, we'll need to know what year the car is. Ahh, Honda! About as reliable as they come, but not particularly DIYer-friendly .
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1982 300D, black w/ palomino leather, 203K 2001 E320, champagne, 105K (Mom's) 1999 Dodge Dakota, squeaky & battered, 142K |
#12
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"but not particularly DIYer-friendly"
Not even professional independant friendly.... they do not share things like TSB's with them.... no listing in Alldata, etc.... We must keep in mind that the use of heat can change the physical properties of metal.... take out the hardening , etc... particularly the use of heat in localized places.... which can lead to future cracks.... not good on items with high stress like rotors or hubs.... |
#13
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2 hammers hitting opposite sides simultaneously has often provided the vibe to break things loose for me.
A friend stopped by last week with a reciever bar corroded into the reciever. we put put some tension on it with a come along and after about ten minutes of repetitive hammering we got nowhere. He was ready to give up. with a maul and a sledge we hit opposite sides of the reciever at the same time. 30-40 blows later we started to see some progress and out she came.
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Rob M Norwich, VT USA 1980 240D Euro delivery 4 speed manual silver/blue ~160K miles |
#14
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never got the hub off but we managed to get them changed without taking it off
__________________
have no worries.....President Obama swears "If you like your gun, you can keep it |
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