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Old 06-08-2005, 06:31 AM
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emergency non diesel related

i am curently working on a friends accord that is in dier need of brakes,well when i tried to remove the lugs they snapped the wheel studs off. now i need to remove the rotor and hub to change the studs but i cant for the life of me get the damn thing off. i removed the nut on the cv shaft i remove the four little bolts behind it and it still wont budge. my two biggest problems are that 1 now he cant drive it and two ITS STUCK IN MY CARPORT so if anyone here can help me get this done i would greatly appreciate it. i know there are a few of you on here that know your way around hondas,so if you can please help me.

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Old 06-08-2005, 07:11 AM
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Have you taken the caliphers off ?
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Old 06-08-2005, 07:25 AM
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yup removed the caliper,the caliper bracket and i removed every thing else that you can think of. i dont see why its stuck on there?
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Old 06-08-2005, 07:27 AM
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On some models of Accord (1996 for certain) the hubs actually have to be pressed out to remove the rotors. This requires removing the whole spindle. If it's just a broken stud, can't you pop the old one out with a large punch and a hammer?
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Old 06-08-2005, 07:34 AM
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On my sons's 2000 Accord I had to drill out the two little philips screws that held the rotors on and then improvise a puller by purchasing two small bolts to thread into the two little empty (and a little rusty) holes in the rotors.
I tightened those two bolts evenly until the rotor "popped"off.

The retainer screws are available from the dealer, or, actually could be left off because the wheel holds the rotor firmly in place anyway...

Removing the center bolt is not necessary when removing the rotor, but will likely be necessary to remove the hub to access the studs.

Good luck, and what year Accord are you working on?
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Old 06-08-2005, 07:35 AM
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Generically speaking....some studs are pressed in and some are screwed in... would need to know which way it was....
The generic metal working answer to a broken stud is to center punch it ( perhaps have to grind to make a flat.... then drill it out .... quality drill bit, correctly sharpened, and half inch drill typically... AND brace the drill handle so it can't rotate if it catches in the stud....
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Old 06-08-2005, 07:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speace
On my sons's 2000 Accord I had to drill out the two little philips screws that held the rotors on and then improvise a puller by purchasing two small bolts to thread into the two little empty (and a little rusty) holes in the rotors.
I tightened those two bolts evenly until the rotor "popped"off.

The retainer screws are available from the dealer, or, actually could be left off because the wheel holds the rotor firmly in place anyway...
Those screws come out easily with a little heat or an impact driver, otherwise they're a major PITA. They're only there to hold the rotor on the car as it's coming down the assembly line, and afterwards they're about as useless as Pauly Shore. It makes sense that the dealer would sell them.
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Old 06-08-2005, 07:54 AM
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"impact driver,"

For those of you who may be visualizing a regular air impact gun....

I am pretty sure he is thinking about a Hand Impact Driver.... the saviour of motorcycle mechanics...

This is a hunk of steel about 7 inches long and and inch and a half in diamter... it can be set to twist either way.... to get things loose or tighten them....

ITS GREAT POINT is that it provides forward pressure at the same instant that it does the turning.... so things like stuck phillips head screws ( the phillips head was actually designed to limit the torque which could be applied ) can be gotten out... BAM your problem is solved.
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Old 06-08-2005, 08:01 AM
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Of course, I started out using my "Hand Impact Tool" and it immediately rounded off three of the 4 retainer screws. Those things are soft metal like aluminum and aren't worth a flip. At least MB uses strong hex head retainer screws!

A little heat MAY have helped me, but it was no trouble to drill them out.

Anyway, we digress from helping our friend with the snapped off studs!
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  #10  
Old 06-08-2005, 08:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leathermang
I am pretty sure he is thinking about a Hand Impact Driver...
Yep, that's it exactly. Everybody should have one of these in their toolbox. Mine is a large 1/2" drive version, and can break just about anything free when used with a Universal Volkswagen Tool (2 pound sledge).
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  #11  
Old 06-08-2005, 08:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speace
Of course, I started out using my "Hand Impact Tool" and it immediately rounded off three of the 4 retainer screws. Those things are soft metal like aluminum and aren't worth a flip. At least MB uses strong hex head retainer screws!

A little heat MAY have helped me, but it was no trouble to drill them out.

Anyway, we digress from helping our friend with the snapped off studs!
With an acetylene torch you can heat them until they glow, and then they'll come out with a regular screwdriver with no effort at all. When I did my stepbrother's Accord, I only had a propane torch. I heated them as much as I could with that, then they came out with just a tap from the hand impact driver.

Before we can be of any more assistance with the snapped off studs, we'll need to know what year the car is. Ahh, Honda! About as reliable as they come, but not particularly DIYer-friendly .
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  #12  
Old 06-08-2005, 09:02 AM
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"but not particularly DIYer-friendly"

Not even professional independant friendly.... they do not share things like TSB's with them.... no listing in Alldata, etc....

We must keep in mind that the use of heat can change the physical properties of metal.... take out the hardening , etc... particularly the use of heat in localized places.... which can lead to future cracks.... not good on items with high stress like rotors or hubs....
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Old 06-08-2005, 10:08 AM
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2 hammers hitting opposite sides simultaneously has often provided the vibe to break things loose for me.

A friend stopped by last week with a reciever bar corroded into the reciever. we put put some tension on it with a come along and after about ten minutes of repetitive hammering we got nowhere. He was ready to give up. with a maul and a sledge we hit opposite sides of the reciever at the same time. 30-40 blows later we started to see some progress and out she came.
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Old 06-08-2005, 08:11 PM
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never got the hub off but we managed to get them changed without taking it off

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