Since I am totally screwed on removing the sheared off glow plugs, and drilling out did not work. I now have to pull the head.

Upon removing the valve cover, and taking a long look at the timing chain, I have come to the realization, that before I fool with the timing chain, I need to find the neutral position for the cam. Anyone have any ideas where zero is at or should I say the safe position to undo the timing chain.

Any other wisdom, before I screw myself any worse than I already have so far, please pass it along.

Thanks,

I would not attempt to remove the head on any M/B without the factory service manual in my possession.

There are specific steps required to support the timing chain so you don't lose it off the crankshaft and there are specific steps required to remove the camshaft so you don't break it.

And, yes, you can screw yourself much worse than you have already if you attempt this procedure without the FSM.

I agree, I wouldn't attempt the job without the manuals.
My MB-WIS has extremely detailed instructions on how to remove the '99s head....I've looked them up because I'll be changing my glowplugs this week too--and they're all original at 158k(!)

I think there are some special tools required that are also listed in the manual. Correct me if I'm wrong, I believe the engine position for head removal is Cyl 1 TDC?

__________________
99 E300 TD -- sold
01 540i 6 spd

This is one of my fears in the life of this 606.962. Dealer put new ones in a couple years ago, so this is on the current to do list.

Seems like aklim had his off at some point after his was stuck, he may chime in later or you can sift through his posts. Seems like he did it but I do not recall specifically.

__________________
raMBow

1999 E300DT Obsydian Black Metallic, Heated Full Leather Parchment options, E2, K2, 136,000+, best 36.5 mpg - GP's 12-04 & 11-12 Zero Stuck
2010 Honda Odyssey - The BrideMobile - best 26.5
(2) 2005 Honday Accord- (1 -Corporate 1 - Personal) - 110,000 4-cyl 30mpg
2000 VW Golf GLS TDI, Upsolute Chip (sold to Brother, now 300+k on it) 48.5 mpg like clock work
1987 Honda CRX HF - Sold 87,000 always over 50 mpg Max 67 mpg

I've found that Autozone's AllDataDIY site has surprisingly detailed instructions and diagrams for removal & installation of the cylinder head along with torque specs. and related MB technical bulletins.

I am thinking of skipping the 'glow plugs only' on mine and just plan on pulling the head sometime this summer. I'd be interested in hearing your progress. Good luck!

__________________
Scott C.

2006 E320 CDI (120k miles)
FOR SALE: 1998 E300 Turbo Diesel - Black w/Tan Leather - Euro delivery (236k miles)

Is this a v6 or inline engine?

__________________
Jim

Inline six, 3.0 liters, DOHC 24 valves turbo.
606 is basically a 603 block and a 24-valve head.

__________________
99 E300 TD -- sold
01 540i 6 spd

Inline

__________________
raMBow

1999 E300DT Obsydian Black Metallic, Heated Full Leather Parchment options, E2, K2, 136,000+, best 36.5 mpg - GP's 12-04 & 11-12 Zero Stuck
2010 Honda Odyssey - The BrideMobile - best 26.5
(2) 2005 Honday Accord- (1 -Corporate 1 - Personal) - 110,000 4-cyl 30mpg
2000 VW Golf GLS TDI, Upsolute Chip (sold to Brother, now 300+k on it) 48.5 mpg like clock work
1987 Honda CRX HF - Sold 87,000 always over 50 mpg Max 67 mpg

Heck, there is nothing to it if it is an inline 6.
Put the engine at TDC and lock the flywheel in place. Mark the chain in relation to the cam sprocket and just re-install in the same position. Should be pretty straight forward.

__________________
Jim

???

__________________
-justin

1987 300TD, 1987 300TD
2008 R32, 2000 Passat Wagon

Aklim did not do it. Aklim had it done. The best person would be 210OELmotor who is my MB tech and Gilly who had something to do with the head removal. Other than that, I might be able to find it in WIS as to the head removal instructions.

__________________
01 Ford Excursion Powerstroke
99 E300 Turbodiesel
91 Vette with 383 motor
05 Polaris Sportsman 800 EFI
06 Polaris Sportsman 500 EFI
03 SeaDoo GTX SC Red
03 SeaDoo GTX SC Yellow
04 Tailgator 21 ft Toy Hauler
11 Harley Davidson 883 SuperLow

Thanks as always for yall's wisdom and advice. Any ideas where one can download or find to read the MB-WIS service manual that several of you have referenced. I will also try the Autozone DIY site that scott referenced as well.

I will admit that I am new to wrenching on Mercedes, and really have zero knowledge of how the come apart and go together. I did however stay at a Holiday Inn last night, so I think that may push me over the top.LOL But racing over the years has made me a damn good mechanic on a lot of different motors. We have stuck pistons and blown up motors only to tear them completely apart, and put new pistons back in, completely reassembled the entire motor, and put it back in the race cars all in a couple of hours to compete in races. I always thought driving race cars was about driving, and let me tell you it is more about being a good mechanic. So I am hopeful that I have attained the skill set to not completely screw the pooch a second time on this.

I will say this, looking at the top of the valves last night, this motor does look perty, and build like a brick sheet house for those who have never open Pandora's box up.

Please keep the wisdom coming. Thanks,

Here is a link to AllDataDIY's cylinder head removal/installation instructions for their sample vehicle page. The instructions for the 606 does not have the assembly drawings, but all the similiar steps and figures are there.

'95 AllDataDIY Totoya DOHC Cylinder head removal/installation sample

__________________
Scott C.

2006 E320 CDI (120k miles)
FOR SALE: 1998 E300 Turbo Diesel - Black w/Tan Leather - Euro delivery (236k miles)

Here's the text, you should probably just purchase a subcription for the car...it is only $15 a year per car.

Remove/Install Cylinder Head

REMOVAL

Disconnect ground cable of the battery
Remove engine compartment trim WARNING:
Risk of scalding as a result of hot coolant spraying out
Do not open the cap of the expansion reservoir or radiator unless the coolant temperature is below 90°C.
Carefully turn cap to the first detent or slowly about 1/2 turn.
Wear protective clothing.
Drain coolant at crankcase drain
Remove poly V-belt. See: Drive Belt\Service and Repair
Remove cylinder head cover. See: Valve Cover\Service and Repair
Remove resonance intake manifold.
Disconnect coolant hoses (12) at cylinder head
Inspect condition of hose clips and hoses and replace if necessary
Disconnect vacuum pipes (13) at cylinder head, place match mark for assembly alignment.
Unbolt exhaust system (6) at exhaust manifold
Exhaust manifold remains attached to cylinder head
Remove chain tensioner (20). See: Timing Chain Tensioner\Service and Repair
Replace seal of chain tensioner
Remove camshafts (21). See: Camshaft\Service and Repair
Remove camshaft housing (22). See: Camshaft Bearing\Service and Repair
Disconnect fuel pipes
Open fuel filler cap to release residual pressure.
Disconnect the feed pipes at the body end and connect across with a piece of hose to prevent leakage
WARNING:


Risk of explosion as a result of fuel vapors igniting.
No fire, naked flame or smoking. Avoid the creation of sparks.
Risk of poisoning as a result of inhaling fuel vapors and open handling of fuel.
Pour fuels only into the canisters provided for this purpose, and store in such canisters.
Risk of injury as a result of fuel splashing into eyes.
Wear protective gloves and, if necessary, eye protection when handling fuel.
If cylinder head is to be replaced, remove injection nozzles (23), refer to Powertrain Management
Disconnect engine wiring harness (29) at cylinder head. See: Service and Repair
Remove oil filter (40). See: Oil Filter Housing\Service and Repair
Unbolt fuel filter (70/2) at cylinder head
Place fuel filter to the side with piping connected
Pull out bottom guide rail pin (32), refer to Guide Rail Pin.
Remove guide rail (33) in chain housing
Unscrew bolts (15) of cylinder head at timing case cover
Slacken cylinder head bolts (16, 16a) in stages, take out






Once engine has cooled down, slacken cylinder head bolts in reverse order of tightening diagram shown above.
Inspect cylinder head bolts (16, 16a). See: Testing and Inspection
Bolt on bracket (17) for removing cylinder head
Bolt on bracket to first and last camshaft bearings (exhaust end) with 7 x 35 mm bolts (19)
Remove cylinder head (02)
Clean contact surfaces (24) of cylinder block (crankcase), clean threaded holes
Blow out threaded holes, free of oil and water; inspect contact surfaces
Inspect contact surface of cylinder block (crankcase) face
If necessary reface contact surface of cylinder block (crankcase). See: Cylinder Block Assembly\Service and Repair
If cooling and heating system contains oil, remove oil in cooling and heating system.
INSTALLATION


Install in the reverse order, noting the following:
Install new cylinder head gaskets (25) onto the crankcase.
When installing gasket, pay attention to dowel sleeves (26) for locating the cylinder head.
NOTE:


If the crankcase has been refaced, it is necessary to install a repair size cylinder head gasket with a thickness of 1.85 mm.
Measure piston projection. See: Piston\Testing and Inspection
If timing case cover and cylinder head are removed at the same time, the setting of the injection pump will be altered.
Test start of delivery and set if necessary.






Using the illustration, tighten the twelve-point hexagon socket head cylinder head bolts in four stages as follows: 1st stage: 15 Nm
2nd stage: 35 Nm
3rd stage: Turn 90°
4th stage: Wait 10 Min., then tighten an additional 90°

NOTE:


Oil thread and head contact surface of cylinder head bolts, insert and tighten in stages
It is not necessary to re-tighten the cylinder head bolts after engine has been run
Tighten cylinder head bolts to timing case cover bolts to: 25 Nm
Install guide rail so that the two mounting holes for the guide rail pins are facing up (arrow) and the open side of the guide rail is facing in opposite direction of travel
Coat bottom guide rail pin with Loctite 574 sealant or Omnifit FD 3041 sealant, or equivalent, and knock into the cylinder head as far as the stop. Ensure that the guide rail (33) is correctly located at the chain housing
Inspect cooling system for leaks
NOTE: Engine with new cylinder head gasket: do not pressure-test cooling system until engine has reached operating temperature

WARNING:


Risk of accident as a result of vehicle starting off when engine running.
Secure vehicle to prevent it moving off.
Risk of injury as a result of bruises and burns if you insert your hands into engine when it is being started or when it is running.
Wear appropriate work clothes when carrying out work on the vehicle.
Inspect for leaks with engine running
Read fault memory, erase Stored faults which may be caused by disconnecting wiring or simulation during removal and installation or test work have to be processed in the fault memories and erased after completing the work, refer to Powertrain Management.

__________________
Marty D.

2013 C300 4Matic
1984 BMW 733i
2013 Lincoln MKz

Does the 603 have the similar head design as the 617? I think what causes a person so much fear when looking real close at the head, contemplating removing the thing is that there is this lack of ability to get to the bottom sprocket. It is housed in what many here on this forum seem to call the "abyss." My 617 is stripped down to rockers, and I'm going in for the job, but I got to tell you, the abyss scares the crap outta me. A slight indescretion and a weekend job turns into an engine rebuild.