Yes, I got it now. I was confusing myself because I had a factory manual with the removal process but it was for a slightly different rear axle setup and the process and parts were different. I was trying to make sense of the whole thing.

That is a very elegant setup on the flange removal. i am going to give it a try. The only thing I was wondering was the placement of the washer on the inside. Looks like you did it with the bearing in place and just ran the nut and washer right through the center of it and pushed on the rear of the flange.

Let me know if that's not correct. Looks nice! I think the press is much better than the drift.

Yes for the crush washer you just need to tighten the nut on the back - but don't over tighten it - as you then need to start again with a new one. Warning:- you need to be strong!

Oh by the way the use of presses / pullers is recommended in the FSM (35-350) but the cost of / availability of the MB special tools is often prohibitive (particularly if you're only planning to do the job once). That's why I came up with this alternative.

Also when you take out the axles you are meant to replace the large washers that hold them in place at the wheel. I measured the difference in camber on the rear wheel to be 1 degree with and without the washer fitted... so they are worthwhile replacements.

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Excellent write up. Am just completing this repair on my 1985 230E (grey market W123) thanks to these step-by-steps. One thing worth mentioning to others - because the slotted nuts have to be punched, the ones you remove cannot be reused. I had trouble finding replacements online. Best bet is to visit a Mercedes dealer's part store. I got them there for $12 each.

The slotted nuts come with the bearing kit (two bearings, races, seal and slotted nut). Available through NAPA or a confident European parts supplier.

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DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME, DON'T BE A HACK
Political Correctness is NOT part of my vocabulary
and finally FIGHT CRIME...SHOOT BACK

'82 240D Stick
'85 300D Auto
Drove my first MB at age 16 1960 300SL W190

I decided to go for it. I had a little different experience than some.

The differences that I saw were:

1) I used the German Baum Tools for the pin socket. I thought it was the best one, but I have to admit that the pins do not all fit the nut well. One needs to be filed to fit right. It worked as is for removal on both and I may just leave it that way for assembly also.

2) I was NOT able to get the seals off with a screwdriver. I am a pretty big guy at 300 pounds and when I put pressure on something, it usually moves. I fought with both seals for a while and was actually creating small dents in the carrier assembly from the pressure I was putting on the carrier trying to leverage the screwdriver. So..... I went with a crowbar - It also could not get it out, but it started to mess with the inside lip of the seal that you use as a lever. It was just to hard to maneuver under the car. I went with a claw hammer and used the part you pull nails with. I made sure that both sides of the claw were engaged and pulled for all I was worth. I was able to get them out like that. I have NO idea why these were so hard on my car.

3) I had a sliding hammer and tried to remove the hub with it, but again it would not move. After about 20 minutes of constant pounding and an arm that was starting to get tired, I went to what this article said - hitting it from behind with a dead blow rubber mallet. That worked, but I have to caution - it still takes a few whacks. I got impatient and used a brass drift on the back where the rectangular cutouts are that the net get bent over. Well, I didn't know it, but the brass drift deformed the metal enough to make the threads useless. ----- new flange needed. Just stick with the rubber mallet and it will come out.

4) Last the removal of the outer bearing from the flange was actually the easiest chore for me. I just used a bearing remover - it's like a playtex tool. It lifts and seperates the bearing right off. no muss, no fuss.

Between all the tips I had before and maybe some of these tips, this job is not as hard as it really seems initially.

This is the 2nd Post I have read were someone damaged the threaded end of the Hub by using a big Punch on it. So the conclusion is do not do that.

When I removed the Hub from the Bearing Carrier/Arm I flollowed what another memeber suggested and used an old Brake Rotor (from my Volvo) installed in reverse. And, I beat on the Rotor with a Hammer that had a 2.5 pound Head on it. You beat a little and rotate the Rotor and Beat somemore.
It still took a lot of beating but the Hub Came out undamaged.

It might be that a Punch with the end of it made so it would not damage the Hub would work but I really think the Old Brake Rotor method worked well because you can put as much force as is needed on it.

What I would like to see is some one to find a way to do the job without damaging the Bearings. Mine got dinged up.
I was salavaging the Hub from a Cracked Trailing are so before I started there was no damaged Bearings or Hub.

I would also like to see any instuctions concerning Punching out the Rear Hub with a Metal Punch to include a caution that it can damage the threaded end of the Hub.

A new Hub is over $300 and it is a lot of work to do at a Pull-your-own-part type Junk Yard to pull off a used Hub.

When I looked at Parts Places they show a different Part Number For Right And Left Hubs.
Is it true that they are Different?

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

{A new Hub is over $300 and it is a lot of work to do at a Pull-your-own-part type Junk Yard to pull off a used Hub.}


Instead of trying to remove the Hub at PNP, just remove the whole trailing Arm and swap it in. They are only $42.

If you come across a low milage car, just swap in both arms, saves replacing the bearings.


Charlie

__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

I have a couple of questions

1) why do you need to worry about saving the bearings? not only are they cheap, but I would think that a major part of this is to replace the wear parts which are the bearings. But with a bearing puller the bearing comes right off and is not harmed at all.

2) from another post, I actually had considered replacing the whole trailing arm. I have no idea where you can get one for only $42, but that is something to really consider. One from a low mileage car is a real possibility. The only thing is you have to remove the shafts, the shock and springs, etc Pretty big job. In the end, I was putting a lot of time into this and I decided I should put fresh (non 20 year old) bearings and grease in the hub.

Still, I would not hesitate to go the new arm route.


Sorry - forgot to mention - yes the hubs (flanges) are different. The Mercedes book says that they have different oiling patterns. I can't see the difference but probably some lube holes set up for the direction of rotation. They are marked L and R also, so easy to tell apart.

I wanted to add a little more to the thread. I am replacing both sets of bearings. I measured the bearing and bought a tube so that i could pound it onto the flange as per the instructions in the Mercedes manual. I took one flange and put the tube on it and pounded away. I got it seated, but every time I whacked it I kept worrying that the tube might move and I would wreck the bearing. Plus, I was banging on it pretty hard and was wondering how in the world I was going to hammer the ineer bearing onto the flange while someone tried to hold the flange in place.

I decided to make a press that would work like the factory tool that I would use to press on the second outer bearing and that I could use on the car for the inner bearing.

Here is what I came up with. It works really well and I highly recommend putting together something like this. I only did the other outer bearing, but expect the inner bearing to work just as well. The tube I am using is too long for the inner, so I am going to cut it shorter before I do the inners.

Attached Thumbnails

       

That is lush well done!

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Yes, the press is very well done.

If you have the need to beat on a Bearing Cone and not able to make a press use a Punch made Aluminum or Brass and just tap it lightly on the inner most race alternating sides and taping on different areas till it is down. A heavy hammer is a big help because it does not need the velocity that a small Hammer needs; a nice slow tap helps decrease the chance of the Punch skidding off or rebounding off what you are working on.

Comment on replacing the whole Trailing Arm with a used one. That worked for me when I replaced a Cracked Trailing arm except that I did not pull mine of. I bought it fore $125 + UPS shipping from a Junk Yard.
(I actually bought 2 of them like that. I ordered the wrong side the first time.)
The used Trailing Arm has been on for over 3 years with no problems.

(Both of my old Trailing Arms have rusted through holes in them; so I may need that other Trialing Arm later.)

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Speaking of used parts, I tried to go that route and bought two hubs from a 135,000 mile 500SEL (85 I think he said). It has the right flanges on it, but the hubs have a different option on them and they won't fit my car. I could try to take them apart off the car and steal the flanges, but I think trying to take the slotted nut off while not on the car would be tough. The dealer has a tool to hold the hub off the car, but about $300 - so I wasn't going to do that.

After I spent the money to do that, I just bit the bullet and decided to buy a new flange.

I need to turn them back around so if anyone wants them, $120 plus shipping for both rear hubs.

Let me know or they are going to end up on eBay. I noticed that one of the hubs had the brake backing plate slightly bent during shipping. Nothing serious and it can certainly be bent back.

Email if any interest.

I used almost the same rig as you. A piece of ready rod...bolts and two hockey pucks with holes drilled through the center. If I remember correctly I had to shave the side off one hockey puck. My thought was that the rubber was good to protect the bearing.

Not a bad idea. Would have been easier to cut and drill too.

Got the one flange at least on the car tonight. I don't ever get much time to work on it, but I got the inner bearing tightened up with the tool. Still a lot of play in it without tightening to correct tolerance, but at least the flange is back on the car.

dmorrison - many thanks for the hub rebuild procedure!! Nice job!