Previous owner syndrome strikes.... again! - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

TheDon · #16 06-13-2012, 01:54 PM

Oh boy, I've found some fun fixes..

I need to check the box that the head gasket came in and see if there is an intake gasket and gasket for the crossover tube.

and find a thread on removing the thing.

Aquaticedge · #17 06-13-2012, 01:59 PM

there should be a topic of the most creative fix we've found. I bet there is quite a few of them as sad as that is

TheDon · #18 06-13-2012, 02:34 PM

anyone have a link? I've been searching for about 20 minutes and nothing solid yet.

I did find a post by Bohdi about oil coming from the head bolt between cylinders 1 and 2. I have the same issue and hers was solved by a new intake gasket and valve cover gasket.

funola · #19 06-13-2012, 02:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bio300TDTdriver

And that is rated at 80 amps because.................?

By expert hammering and estimate of cross section area.

Look, as long as it doesn't get too warm and does not burn out, it is not too low an amperage for the task. It could be higher than 80A, which is fine for me.

Yumeko-chan · #20 06-13-2012, 02:38 PM

A PO of my car apparently had an overheating problem in the past, because my auxiliary fan comes on whenever I turn the key in the ignition. Rewired it somehow, though I'm not sure if it's something I should worry about or not =P

TheDon · #21 06-13-2012, 02:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yumeko-chan

A PO of my car apparently had an overheating problem in the past, because my auxiliary fan comes on whenever I turn the key in the ignition. Rewired it somehow, though I'm not sure if it's something I should worry about or not =P

Most likely just connected the wires that go into the pressure sensor that has failed and does not activate the fan when the AC is in use. I need to replace my sensor as well but it involves evacuating the AC system I believe.

Zulfiqar · #22 06-13-2012, 03:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by retmil46

Sounds like the same story as far as going to a CJD dealer for the CRD - massively inflated price compared to aftermarket. I guess Daimler did teach them one thing, all too well.

Thing is though, at least with CJD dealers, they're so desperate to make sales, that if they quote you an inflated price, and you tell them "sorry, but I can order it on line for XXX", quite often they'll drop the BS and MATCH the reduced price you quoted them.

Im not even comparing online to them, I had a freind of mine buy some stuff from a dealer in FL and send it over, I showed them dealer reciepts for items they were quoting 500% inflated price. And it was higher than wholesale price.. Yet they were stubborn on the market difference.

Well - apparently they dont want any business I think??

Simpler=Better · #23 06-13-2012, 03:43 PM

Hijack:

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheDon

Heck, pancakes the 240D with no history on the engine and a ton of miles started in the winter with no glow plugs.

That's insane! In the winter I had to heat my 617's oil pan with a torch for 30 minutes once to get it started out in the boonies.

jay_bob · #24 06-13-2012, 03:56 PM

There are 2 switches on the dryer on a 123.

The pressure switch is in the compressor circuit, it keeps you from frying the compressor if you have insufficient charge. The switch has large hex flats and does require evacuation to replace since it has to see the pressure of the refrigerant to work.

The temperature switch is threaded into the brass block on top of the dryer. This is the switch that triggers the fan. It has two quick disconnect terminals in line with the switch. A common DIY hack to have aux fan all the time is to unplug the switch and connect the two terminals together. This pulls in the fan relay anytime the key is on. The switch is simply threaded into a blind hole in the dryer (no connection to the refrigerant passages) since it only is sensing the temperature of the dryer body.

The temperature switch is cylindrical and if your dryer is stock the rear end of the switch is pointing straight at the radiator. It unscrews but as vstech and I found out it is easy to break. Phil has them.

Reminds me, I put mine back together with duct tape, and I need to replace mine. It works but I don't want to leave it like that.

pawoSD · #25 06-13-2012, 05:31 PM

Two GP's being out is probably the only reason that 30A fuse lasted as long as it did....since 4GP's is about 35+ amps.

At least they used a fuse and not a piece of 12GA wire or something!

Fulcrum525 · #26 06-13-2012, 10:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by retmil46

Yep, been there, done that, got the t-shirt, as far as PO Syndrome.

I'll 2nd this thought that's for sure! I'd be here typing all night if I had to list all the crazy half-ass "repairs" that i've found on the Gwagen.

shadetree77 · #27 06-13-2012, 10:18 PM

My SD had a hitch on it when i first got it; didn't realize the PO just drilled holes in the bottom of the spare tire well to mount it :@

vstech · #28 06-13-2012, 11:00 PM

lets just say I've had several dozen used cars over the years... not to mention working in auto garages, and on customer cars in driveways for 30 years... VW beetles are the WORST for cheapscate engineering...

I can't type all the mess I"ve found...

vstech · #29 06-13-2012, 11:03 PM

worst one I found was bailing TWINE wrapped around the control arm to keep the wheel on, after the ball joint had failed...

I've found differentials packed with vasaline...

arrgh...

Codifex Maximus · #30 06-14-2012, 04:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pawoSD

Two GP's being out is probably the only reason that 30A fuse lasted as long as it did....since 4GP's is about 35+ amps.

At least they used a fuse and not a piece of 12GA wire or something!

Yep, better to use a fuse too small than a fuse to large in amps.