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  #16  
Old 07-03-2012, 09:09 PM
1985 190d
 
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PM me for a nearly new ignition key tumbler and complete switch from a 84 190d, price reasonable.

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  #17  
Old 07-03-2012, 10:18 PM
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I am familiar with doing a manual glow plug setup, I'm also into Isuzu dsls. I drive a factory S10 2.2 dsl. Not familar yet with the Mercedes but getting there. Will need help if I don't find an ignition switch reasonable. Thanks
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  #18  
Old 07-05-2012, 10:34 PM
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At this point I have the engine in but also have a snag. The gas flex coupling that connects the end of the trans tailshaft to the drive shaft has a larger bolt circle than the one on the diesel trans. Can I remove the part on the end of the tailshaft and switch it with the diesel one? I'm going to try to att. a pic to ill. my point but the is a nut type thing that has what appears to be an intentional divit in it to keep it from coming off. Is this correct and can I swap them out?


Last edited by 2peej; 07-06-2012 at 09:10 AM.
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  #19  
Old 07-05-2012, 11:01 PM
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You can use a punch to remove the staking from the nut, then swap the flanges over.
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  #20  
Old 07-05-2012, 11:10 PM
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Great, thanks for the quick responce!
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  #21  
Old 07-06-2012, 09:18 AM
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Can someone please explain in basic terms how the fuel shut off works on a 1984 2.2 dsl. eng.? I need to be able to understand what the concept is in order to move forward with my gas car to dsl. conversion. I'm making progress Thanks to all who have responded.

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  #22  
Old 07-06-2012, 10:09 AM
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Basically, on the rear of the IP there is a module which has a port to attach a vaccum line. When vaccum is applied to that line it cuts off the fuel and shuts down the engine. If I understand correctly, the factory 190D applies this vaccum via the ignition switch. A switchover valve can be plumbed in as an alternative as it opens when power is removed.

Is there no difference between a diesel auto trans and a gasser?
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  #23  
Old 07-06-2012, 10:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2peej View Post
At this point I have the engine in but also have a snag. The gas flex coupling that connects the end of the trans tailshaft to the drive shaft has a larger bolt circle than the one on the diesel trans. Can I remove the part on the end of the tailshaft and switch it with the diesel one? I'm going to try to att. a pic to ill. my point but the is a nut type thing that has what appears to be an intentional divit in it to keep it from coming off. Is this correct and can I swap them out?

The yoke nut takes a 30mm 12 point deep socket. If you don't have one, Phil @ Fastlane has them.
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  #24  
Old 07-06-2012, 11:03 AM
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Thanks, regarding the ? as to any diff. between the transissions. From what I see in the wiring connections etc. plugs look identical, not totally sure as to the vacuum question. Information welcome! Thanks
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  #25  
Old 07-06-2012, 01:23 PM
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So you kept the diesel auto trans and inserted both the diesel motor and trans into the gas car?
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  #26  
Old 07-06-2012, 02:58 PM
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I used the gas transmission when I did the swap.

_______________________________________________

The vacuum operated shut off valve circuit needs vacuum to shut down and then no vacuum (open to free air) to start and run. I use 2 electric controlled air valves.

A: One normally open. It closes when power is applied.
B: One normally closed. It opens when power is applied.

When the ignition is turned on:
"A" closes to prevent new vacuum from getting to the fuel shut off valve on the IP and prevent the venting of the entire vacuum circuit.
"B" opens to vent the vacuum that shut off the fuel to the IP the last time the car was turned off.

When the ignition is turned off:
"A" allows vacuum to get to the shut off valve on the IP.
"B" closes to stop the venting of the vacuum to the shut off valve on the IP.

With this setup my car starts fine and shuts down as soon as the key is turn off.

Most gas cars have one or 2 of these valves. The 190e may have what you need under the hood.
If you go to a junk yard you check the "normal", un-powered, status of a valve by trying to blow through it.
If you can blow through it, it is normally open.
If you cannot blow through it, it is normally closed.

_______________________________________________

I had to cut a slot in the air cleaner box to allow clearance for the brake booster vacuum line.
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  #27  
Old 07-06-2012, 06:55 PM
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I have the diesel trans installed in mine. I have not fire the engine up yet, maybe this week, hopefully. I felt safer trying the dsl. trans because I didn't know how the combo trans and diff. gearing was going to be. Hope I made a good call, can always swap it out. One other thing I think I noticed the gas trans. has some type of speed sensor on the engine flexplate that was wired into the trans harness? not sure though!
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  #28  
Old 07-06-2012, 07:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GregMN View Post
The vacuum operated shut off valve circuit needs vacuum to shut down and then no vacuum (open to free air) to start and run. I use 2 electric controlled air valves.

A: One normally open. It closes when power is applied.
B: One normally closed. It opens when power is applied.

When the ignition is turned on:
"A" closes to prevent new vacuum from getting to the fuel shut off valve on the IP and prevent the venting of the entire vacuum circuit.
"B" opens to vent the vacuum that shut off the fuel to the IP the last time the car was turned off.

When the ignition is turned off:
"A" allows vacuum to get to the shut off valve on the IP.
"B" closes to stop the venting of the vacuum to the shut off valve on the IP.
There's actually a much simpler way. You can use one solenoid valve that just has a pinhole "vent" in the line going to the shutoff on the IP. I tested mine to leak down in 2-3 seconds. The pin hole is small enough to allow full vacuum, but large enough to leak down quickly enough to allow an immediate restart if desired. Just poking a hole doesn't work, you actually need to use a heated pin to ensure that the orifice doesn't close up again.


Then to keep it from getting plugged, just wrap a couple of turns of shop paper towel around it to act as a simple air filter. Then use a piece of heat shrink and shrink one end to protect the "filter" from engine bay gunk.

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  #29  
Old 07-06-2012, 09:57 PM
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Rather brilliant I must say and the pics speak volumes, I will definately keep this in mind. Thanks for that info.

Last edited by 2peej; 07-06-2012 at 10:01 PM. Reason: add more info
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  #30  
Old 07-06-2012, 10:11 PM
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To answer your question Walkinvol, I used the diesel eng.& trans. I have the gas tranny but noticed the torque convt. was larger and thicker. I also believe there was some type of speed sensor or something that the dsl. didn't have. I was concerned about the diff. in rpm's between the gas and the dsl. and figured maybe the shifting was based on that as well, not sure? Input appriciated for anyone with a better understanding. I am anxious to learn more from the other member "GregMN" that has mentioned he used the gas trans. Are you up and running with your combo, please let us know the status? Thanks


Last edited by 2peej; 07-06-2012 at 10:13 PM. Reason: more info to add
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