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  #46  
Old 08-08-2012, 08:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lorainfurniture View Post
Agreed



How much would you guess (in fluid oz) is the difference between hot/cold oil and trans fluid?

Let me rephrase: if it shows full (middle of dipstick) trans fluid when cold, how much overfilled is it?
The difference between min and max mark on a 722 is 0.3 liter.

As to your question, you have have to look at the charts in section 2710 of the FSM to do the exact calculation for your particular 722.

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Last edited by shertex; 08-08-2012 at 08:42 AM.
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  #47  
Old 08-08-2012, 01:06 PM
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My biggest issue isnt the technique, but the fact that the oil level as it appears on either side of the dipstick is inconsistent... It is higher on one than the other, and sometimes the oil falls off and there is no reading. This isnt just an MB issue. ATF measurements are very difficult for whatever reason...
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  #48  
Old 08-08-2012, 01:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JHZR2 View Post
...and sometimes the oil falls off and there is no reading.
Scuff the end of the stick with some sandpaper.
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  #49  
Old 08-08-2012, 03:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by compress ignite View Post
3. I'm not even gonna address the Muffin Headed suggestion that I run my
Tranny "In an Operating Range" "Somewhere" "In the Neighborhood" of
the CAREFULLY PRODUCED SPECIFICATIONS.
whom do you think developed the specifications? and whom designed the dipstick with a clearly defined range, delineated by minimum and maximum marks, which represent a 300 ml tolerance for acceptable fill level? are you implying that the range on the dipstick which was defined by mercedes benz engineers, is somehow incongruent with the specifications published by those same mercedes benz engineers? or perhaps you are implying that a warm fill level of anything less than the maximum mark is outside of said specifications? which of these bogus assertions is the one you're claiming as fact?
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  #50  
Old 08-08-2012, 08:16 PM
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FYI

Quote:
Originally Posted by engatwork View Post
Based on my experience servicing transmissions over the past year or so it seems to take anywhere from 7 to 10 minutes with the car on the lift, idling, for the fluid to get up to temperature at which you set the level.
At idle with no load (in park) it takes a ridicules amount of time to bring it up to operating temperature.

The trick on a hoist is to brake torque.
The transmission builds thermal load rapidly when working against resistance.

You will be shocked at how fast the transmission builds heat from a cold start, when brake torquing.

Owners in the snow belt use this for getting faster climate control heat.

* Start the car.
* As soon as the engine is stable.
* Step firmly on the brake, and keep holding it.
* Shift to low gear.
* Accelerate to roughly 1500 - 2000 RPM.
* Hold the speed until the engine temperature hits 40°C.

If you start driving now, the heat will be comfortable.


.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf AR27.00-P-0100A_checking ATF oil level.pdf (81.6 KB, 286 views)
File Type: pdf W123_checking ATF oil level.pdf (87.8 KB, 130 views)
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  #51  
Old 08-10-2012, 03:32 PM
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Ridiculous Suggestions

TB,

Originally Posted by compress ignite
3. I'm not even gonna address the Muffin Headed suggestion that I run my
Tranny "In an Operating Range" "Somewhere" "In the Neighborhood" of
the CAREFULLY PRODUCED SPECIFICATIONS.

What I'm "Referring to" is YOUR R.S. that we all follow your lackadaisical
approach to fluid level verification.

(Article # 1)
[ "i know this is an enthusiast site, but imo many of you are over-thinking this. remember that the dipstick has a range on it. minimum to maximum. so if your fill is off by 100 cc or so, it doesn't matter. at all. so long as you are still within the range. just like engine oil, you don't have be exactly precisely on the maximum line all.of.the.time. you can be a 1/2 quart below that and still be within the acceptable range for healthy normal operation." ]

What I'm implying is:
Y'all NEVER Fly with an MD as pilot in command.
AND
You're speaking out of both sides of your dipstick tube I.E.
Follow the specifications from Mercedes / Don't and use the RS (article #1) quoted above as the criteria.
Which is it ? You can't be suggesting we follow whatever whim strikes at the time? (as you claim to do)
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Last edited by compress ignite; 08-10-2012 at 03:44 PM.
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  #52  
Old 08-10-2012, 03:43 PM
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Thanks

Roy
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  #53  
Old 08-10-2012, 09:40 PM
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I hereby dub this thread the cold war!
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  #54  
Old 08-11-2012, 03:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by winmutt View Post
I hereby dub this thread the cold war!
Perhaps the thread should be renamed ever so slightly with out the word argument?
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  #55  
Old 08-11-2012, 08:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whunter View Post
At idle with no load (in park) it takes a ridicules amount of time to bring it up to operating temperature.

The trick on a hoist is to brake torque.
The transmission builds thermal load rapidly when working against resistance.

You will be shocked at how fast the transmission builds heat from a cold start, when brake torquing.

Owners in the snow belt use this for getting faster climate control heat.

* Start the car.
* As soon as the engine is stable.
* Step firmly on the brake, and keep holding it.
* Shift to low gear.
* Accelerate to roughly 1500 - 2000 RPM.
* Hold the speed until the engine temperature hits 40°C.

If you start driving now, the heat will be comfortable.


.
X2
Roy,
Same thing happens with a scraper. When loading ~ 30sec to 2 minutes, you can easily overheat your trans, (auto). When working in hard ground you always watch the trans oil temp. Conversely, you can leave it in neutral all day at idle & it wont get to operating temp. The TC is a big dissipator of heat. If there is any moisture in your trans fluid, it soon boils & you run out of drive quickly.
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  #56  
Old 08-11-2012, 06:50 PM
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Attention all members

Please don't allow this topic to become personal.
This is an excellent question and topic, with good information.

You need to be aware of the technically misleading title...
It is easy to become confused due to conversion, standards, where and how the temperature is measured, etc.

He is not suggesting sub ZERO, or what your body could sense as cold...

FYI:

30°C= 86°F

40°C= 104°F

I have clearly stated my technical concern in using the 30°C - 40°C spec.
This does not mean it is useless, many times I use it for preliminary - rough fill after a rebuild.

Here is a bit of technical fact trivia.
SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) Laboratory standard ambient is assumed to be 70°F, unless explicitly defined for special testing.


I always have and always will point out the obvious facts.
* Do you own it?
* Do you pay the bills for it?
If both answers are yes, you are justified in taking the issue personally on your car.

If the answers are NO, please consider how antagonizing or offending the owner can possibly have a useful or good conclusion.


Have a great day.

Last edited by whunter; 08-13-2012 at 11:51 AM.
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  #57  
Old 08-11-2012, 09:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by compu_85 View Post
FWIW, when you check the ATF level on a 96+ VW, you actually use a scan tool to check the AFT temp first, there is a specific range where you are allowed to see if the transmission is full. But an IR thermometer on the pan gets very close.

It wouldn't be that hard to do something similar on our old cars... define a temp where the fluid should be checked and just measure the pan temp.

-J
Like he said. Its not the ambient temp or engine temp but the fluid temp. 70F is 21C so 12mm below min for me. I should get an IR thermometer.

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