'83 300D 325,000 miles. Recently I replaced the left rear wheel bearings. I failed to fully seat one of the bearing races on the first try, so after I drove it a little, I had to reset the bearing preload. Then it loosened up on me again, so I reset it again. Yesterday I replaced the brake master cylinder and bled the brakes.

Afterward I took it for a test drive in which it seemed like it still had a little of the "wiggle" upon dropping the accelerator like when the wheel bearings were bad or loose. However, the magnitude of it was quite small and I wondered if my lower than usual tire pressure might be contributing. There was also a very slight drift to the left. Other than that it drove fine. Brake performance was back to what it was before the MC went. Following the test drive, I decided to air the tires up to a higher pressure. While doing this, I noticed the left rear wheel was much hotter than the others. I jacked the car up and found the wheel hard to turn. I then opened the bleeder screw on the caliper and got no improvement. I decided to pull the wheel off, put a jackstand under the car, and proceeded to start loosening the wheel. Once I had all the lug bolts loose, the wheel became easy to turn. I re-bled the caliper, manually retracted it, finding it not sticky in the least, applied brakes to put the caliper piston back in place, and found the rotor with no wheel on it still easy to turn. Once I reinstalled the wheel, it became difficult to turn again.

I'm thinking warped rotor, but it doesn't pulse the pedal on a hard stop like you would expect from a warped rotor. Did I manage to warp the wheel hub somehow? Any other ideas?

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Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar.

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