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windshield aluminum trim questions for 123
Just had a guy come by and replace a windshield in an 85 300D. I had removed the trim before hand as the guy sounded super nervous about it on the phone. He arrived, and did not want to reinstall the aluminum trim, so im not about to force a guy to install something he's afraid to and clearly did not know how to do, so I let him leave without finishing the job.
The windshield is in, and from my reading on here after the fact, he should have installed the trim before putting the windshield in the car and used rope to reinstall (which he did without the trim). Do I have to take it back out, or is it possible to push the trim in using soap and water? this is a PITA, I know. Please don't remind me I paid someone 300 bucks and it isn't done. Im willing to struggle with it, but I don't want to break the windshield.
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#2
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I don't think your going to be able to do it.....the guy did it to my windshield like this.....I knew he was doing it wrong but I didn't care, I just needed glass in my car.....he got it in, but it took some time and beating it with a mallet...its in, but doesn't look so good.....so yes you can probably do it, but it will be a pita and the trim may not look so great afterwards...
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#3
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dam, well thats not good news
what kind of mallet did he use? im not looking forward to this
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#4
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Get your money back son. I paid $250 for new glass, delivery, and installation when my windshield smashed.
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$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges $110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges No merc at the moment |
#5
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Rubber, he used tape to keep one side of the trim down....why he pounded on the other side....and wd40......it was a mess, but so far no leaks but the gasket did tear at the top corner a few months ago...
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#6
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well so far its been a nightmare trying to get the trim in lubricated with soap. pops right out after you get some in and move to a new location. I am already hating both safelite and myself for creating this situation
tapping it with a rubber mallet causes such a terrible bend that im surprised your guy was able to get it in all the way around cooljay
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This post brought to you by Carl's Jr. |
#7
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To be honest the first time I read that you were meant to fit the trim to the rubber first and then fit it to the window I thought...
...eh? That's not how it is meant to be - that's not how I ever fitted side windows to Chinooks... Having removed the trim, however, I can see that the trim isn't going to work quite like beading. You might be able to get somewhere by adding the trim after the rubber and window are in place but the last bit will be the worst piece to fit. The problem with the trim is that it is almost as soft as **** and it will buckle and bend and not look nice if bashed, The windscreen is a bit too big for one person to try and shift it about within the rubber seal - which you can do to smaller windows so that you get a bit more space for the trim.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#8
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@#$% Germans had to mess with a beautiful concept and use metal instead of rubber bead. I wish I had some of that bead on me, id run it in there and call it a day on this car.
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#9
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The stuff I was using was a fabric and rubber compound. I bet you could find it in matt black - then you could say "yeah I've de-blinged it - black ops" blah blah blah "I meant it to be that way"...
...have a look at some of those 1950s automotive trim options out there?
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#10
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#11
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FSM clearly says glass + rubber + alumimum roped in as an assembly. I was going to have Safelite do my rear defroster glass (since I've never done it before). When the shop was adamant that the aluminum goes in afterwards, I decided to do it myself instead of paying them to screw it up. It was very easy with one helper (w no expereince also).
In your case, I'd suggest showing Safelite the FSM and ask them to redo it correctly. You will need another set of aluminum that are not mangled. If they refuse, ask for your money back and do it yourself. The FSM has a procedure to remove the windshield also.
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
#12
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I can use my aluminum, its not ruined from todays attempts. I was being pretty careful
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#13
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That's good! Did Safelite supply a new rubber? Some aftermarket rubbers (like Uro from what I've) read do not have the retainer groove for the aluminum. Study the aluminum, you'll see how it attaches.
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
#14
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Im thinking this is why I can't get the trim to stay in at all. Ive pushed in the lower trim several times, even waiting after doing half for the rubber to dry around the trim, and it pops out ridiculously easily as soon as I put alternate force on it
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#15
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It won't lock in once the seal is in.....when the glass is out....you can push the trim in, and bend the seal to catch the grove.....once the seal is installed the pressure locks it in place....you would have to get a hook to lift the seal while you push the trim in....and slide the hook down....while pushing the chrome in.....very difficult...
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