Quote:
Originally Posted by mach4
The engine is shutdown by applying a vacuum to the shutdown valve on the injector pump. A switchover valve is a three position vacuum solenoid where one port goes to atmosphere, one to vacuum and one to the IP. When off, the IP sees atmosphere (no vacuum) and when activated sees vacuum.
You could use a vacuum solenoid (as I did initially on my swap) but you'd need to put a pinhole in the line to bleed off vacuum when power is off (so you can start the engine). I'm currently using a Mazda EGR purge valve for mine. If you source it at the junk yard, grab the electrical pigtail for ease of installation.
You can modify your glow relay to use the 80amp fuse and the glow harness if you want to work well with the Ford solenoid. (Details here - http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/2985078-post8.html) Some people have had problems with the solenoids, but I've had mine (pulled at the junk yard) in for 108k miles without a hiccup.
|
Would this work to shut the engine off?
VSV EGR Vacuum Switch Purge Control Valve Solenoid for Mazda | eBay
What's the black box by the throttle linkages?
Could i just use all the stuff to start/stop the engine that is in the car? That'd be cheaper
Quote:
Originally Posted by OM617YOTA
With the Ford starter solenoid and it's exposed terminals, you can bypass it with a pair of jumper cables to get your engine started. No clue on the MBZ one.
Edit: I also used a toggle switch for GPs instead of a push button like everyone else. In the summer it's 5 seconds glow time. In the winter it can be 45 seconds + and I wanted my hands free while that was happening. I like being able to flip on the switch, put on my seatbelt, check mirror adjustment, sip my coffee, or whatever before starting the truck. I have a bright red indicator light and as everyone predicted, I still left them on a couple times. Added a very loud annoying buzzer, and it's been good since. I ran my indicator light from the same relay-power-out that runs to the glow plugs, which is a much better indication that my GPs are actually getting power than just off the switch that kicks the relay.
I used an emissions solenoid from the original Toyota gas setup for a shut down.
You don't need the in-tank pump, but you'll definitely want to remove it. If you look through my build thread you'll see where I extended my fuel pickup with a piece of hose.
Ask away. I spent over two years researching my swap and still annoyed the snot out of these guys with questions. Hopefully I can give something back to the forum for all the help.
|
So I need two starter solenoids, one for the starter and one for the glow plugs. For the glow plugs can i just hook them to a starter solenoid, switch, fuse and battery or do I need more stuff?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Stokes
Hope I didn't sound grumpy - I didn't mean to. Ask away as there's no other way to learn. My thread and Yoda's and others have a treasure trove of info and are really worth the read if somewhat snooze-inducing. Pretty much all the "usual" issues have been solved in a number of different ways in our builds and annoyingly shared in stupid detail on our threads  .
Dan
|
You didn't, your post was very helpful.