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#1
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Thanks for the info guys. The ground strap is OK because it will start fine
from the jumper on the fender junction. The click sound comes from a higher area. It sounds like a relay engaging. Thanks for ruling out the trani lockout.
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1984 300SD turbo 126 "My true love" God made me an atheist and who am I to question His wisdom |
#2
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No relay in the starter circuit. Key switch go right to starter solenoid.
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 167,870 July 2025 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
#3
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I have a wiring diagram of the starter system. Easy to follow.
The problem is no power FROM the lock out sw. There is power getting TO the lock out as the backup lights come on when in reverse with the key on. If the lock out switch is removed is it serviceable? Are they easy to remove? I have my jumper coming up under the hood and into the driver side window. Works great. turn on the key, glo and press the button. Hope it doesn't rain.
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1984 300SD turbo 126 "My true love" God made me an atheist and who am I to question His wisdom Last edited by The Gears; 08-18-2016 at 07:46 PM. |
#4
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LOGIC: If the backup lights go on with the key on, selector in reverse, It is not logical that the park and reverse contacts won't function. I can see one not working but not both.
Is there a relay to do with an old anti theft setup that is in the circuit? Very strange that one day it is OK and the next it won't start without the car being touched.
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1984 300SD turbo 126 "My true love" God made me an atheist and who am I to question His wisdom |
#5
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Quote:
Quote:
The classic clicking of the starter solenoid (but no spinning of the starter motor) as mentioned above points to this. The reason why not enough "juice" is getting to the starter could also be due to dirty contacts. Taking it one step further: Over on BW there was a fairly recent fad of "change your battery cables as they tend to corrode inside"...
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior ![]() Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#6
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Quote:
If you want to jumper the NSS, best place to do it is at C146 above the accelerator pedal (pins 3 & 4 of 4 pin connector, 2.5 vi/wt and 2.5 vi)
__________________
85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 167,870 July 2025 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
#7
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Quote:
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1984 300SD turbo 126 "My true love" God made me an atheist and who am I to question His wisdom |
#8
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Info is from the electrical trouble shooting manual of the FSM. You have to take the knee panel off to access C146. If you go to the key switch and follow the 2.5 VI/WHT wire, it should go to a single pin connector, then to C146
__________________
85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 167,870 July 2025 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
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