240D - the saga continues; locked up engine - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

ROLLGUY · #16 05-22-2018, 10:24 AM

It is very easy to pull the cam cover and have a look. If it were mine, I would pull the cover before putting the starter in.

funola · #17 05-22-2018, 10:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by frictionshifter

Yes - engine would not turn over by hand with the starter removed.

-Were the glow plugs out?

-Were all belts removed?

-How long was the handle on the 27 mm socket?

-What did the flywheel teeth look like? Any of them chewed up?

-Anything jammed between flywheel and bell housing? Did you use a telecoping inspection mirror and a flashlight so you can look into the areas you wouldn't be able to see otherwise?

- You said the car was recently acquired (weeks old)? What's the history of the car?

funola · #18 05-22-2018, 10:42 AM

Note: Until you can turn the engine by hand with a 27 mm socket on the crank, there is no point putting the starter back in!

WhiteShadow · #19 05-22-2018, 11:53 AM

Following along with interest, my first post here on the forum. I'm on the verge of acquiring an '82 240D so now I have something to immediately worry about on mine.

Good luck with the diagnosis.

ILUVMILS · #20 05-22-2018, 12:06 PM

How about dropping the oil pan and taking a look? Shouldn't take long.........

barry12345 · #21 05-22-2018, 12:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WhiteShadow

Following along with interest, my first post here on the forum. I'm on the verge of acquiring an '82 240D so now I have something to immediately worry about on mine.

Good luck with the diagnosis.

Not a car to have many real concerns usually. Try not to buy one with a lot of rust in it though. Your location may be important in this regard. To me they were and still are a car you repair yourself for most things. Or learn to do it yourself.

I know it is heresy but try to buy the best one you can afford. They are not in general selling at any premium in the last few years. Except for the real creampuffs. I suggest to also try holding out for the manual transmission version.

Actually if I wanted yet another the hunt would be time consuming probably. They are an experience that no other car model can offer an owner even years ago.

WhiteShadow · #22 05-22-2018, 12:42 PM

^^^Thanks.

Indeed, the one I'm scoping out is a manual. Solid metal, slight tear in the driver's seat, will need a repaint, its a faded Maple Yellow (I believe that's the actual color name), appears mechanically sound. It will be a project car but now I'm concerned about a sudden engine seizure.

frictionshifter · #23 05-22-2018, 01:33 PM

Timing chain broke. Take a look at that pic.

I assume it must have broken when I tried to start - though I never got it to crank AT ALL since it last ran.

What next? Pull it out slowly? Is this repairable? Any other damage or areas I should look at?

dkr · #24 05-22-2018, 02:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WhiteShadow

^^^Thanks.

Indeed, the one I'm scoping out is a manual. Solid metal, slight tear in the driver's seat, will need a repaint, its a faded Maple Yellow (I believe that's the actual color name), appears mechanically sound. It will be a project car but now I'm concerned about a sudden engine seizure.

The timing chain issues are pretty rare. I have heard of people replacing them at 300K miles with no problems. If you are keeping up on maintenance, you can check it for stretch.

I think the next step would be to pull the head and see if the valves have had a collision.

Dkr.

WhiteShadow · #25 05-22-2018, 02:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by frictionshifter

Timing chain broke. Take a look at that pic.

I assume it must have broken when I tried to start - though I never got it to crank AT ALL since it last ran.

What next? Pull it out slowly? Is this repairable? Any other damage or areas I should look at?

Perhaps drop the oil pan? Those chain links ended up somewhere. Glad you found the issue.

frictionshifter · #26 05-22-2018, 02:56 PM

I'm glad I found the issue as well. But I think it is as good as junk now.

Any one want it? Seriously, make an offer. Otherwise, I'm parting it out. Good riddance.

WhiteShadow · #27 05-22-2018, 03:23 PM

Do you think its totally junked.....might be a good opportunity to do some teardown and if salvageable, replace maintenance parts as you go along. That's what I would plan to do with the one I hope to acquire, pull the head>new gasket, drop pan, etc as I'm heading more in the direction of a project scenario, something along the lines of what MercedesDieselGuy did several years ago. Wish you weren't such a distance (I'm in MI) otherwise I might be interested. BTW, I love St. Augustine, many nice past memories there.

frictionshifter · #28 05-22-2018, 03:37 PM

I'm sure the engine is salvageable since it did not happen at speed. However, once pulling the head becomes the issue, I've got the cut my losses.

WhiteShadow · #29 05-22-2018, 05:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by frictionshifter

I'm sure the engine is salvageable since it did not happen at speed. However, once pulling the head becomes the issue, I've got the cut my losses.

Keep it as a parts car?....make 1 good one from two?

At least with old tube radios that I restore, it usually takes at least 2 of the same model to end up with one good radio at the end.

Bummer this happened though.

ROLLGUY · #30 05-22-2018, 06:26 PM

I have brought back to life two different engines that broke a timing chain. Actually, the vac pump caused the damage. Both engines had broken cam shafts as well. The hardest part is having to re-time the injection pump. Pull the pan, thread in a new chain, pull and re-time the IP and you are done. No need to pull the head. Guaranteed the valves are fine. You may want to pull the vac pump and inspect. To thread a new chain in, remove all of the cam followers (in two sections) so all the valves are closed. You can then move the cam gear where it needs to be in time with the crank. Buy or rent (I have one to rent) a chain crimper. Attach the new chain to the old one and turn the crank (CW) while pulling on the loose end of the chain (left side facing the engine). You actually don't need to pull the pan to thread the chain in, but it is good to have it off in case there are metal parts that need to be retrieved. It is actually an easy job, I am sure you can handle it.