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  #1  
Old 04-21-2009, 10:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ForcedInduction View Post
I had to remove the 300's EGR tube to replace the coolant bypass hose. Here is what waits inside the intake...
That looks like the pic I took last night.

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  #2  
Old 04-22-2009, 03:04 AM
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While we are removing EGR items,
I have been told that the Aluminum unit under the air cleaner housing
(looks like some type of Air Flow meter on a SDL)
seems to be very restrictive -
and that it's only purpose in life is to adjust the EGR valve to match incoming air???

is this correct and if so, how about offering a "level 2" EGR kit
with the necessary plumbing to eliminate the Air flow meter completely
and plug the vacuum lines, etc......
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  #3  
Old 04-22-2009, 11:29 AM
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Yes, the airflow meter is only for the EGR (and ARV) function, and is not required if these items have been disabled. I jammed the door open, but there was zero - and I mean zero - change in performance. There is no restriction here, at near-stock power levels anyway. If you remove the sensor assembly, it will save a few pounds of weight, but that's all. It doesn't "clean up" the engine compartment at all since the assembly is almost entirely hidden by the air cleaner, at least on a W124 with OM603 engine.

The ideal solution is to buy the European plumbing for a non-EGR engine, which is a plain S-pipe with the appropriate mounting bosses. It's callout #199 in the image below (for a 124.133 chassis). It may be the same for the 126 chassis as well (SDL).



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  #4  
Old 04-22-2009, 04:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbdkemp View Post
While we are removing EGR items,
I have been told that the Aluminum unit under the air cleaner housing
(looks like some type of Air Flow meter on a SDL)
seems to be very restrictive -
and that it's only purpose in life is to adjust the EGR valve to match incoming air???

is this correct and if so, how about offering a "level 2" EGR kit
with the necessary plumbing to eliminate the Air flow meter completely
and plug the vacuum lines, etc......


I deleted it years ago, probably one of the first to do so. No gains in doing it, it just allows the car to make more noise at low throttle.

I stuffed a 617 air intake tube in there from a W126 car. Worked fine on the SDL
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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

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  #5  
Old 04-22-2009, 11:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daw_two View Post
That looks like the pic I took last night.

That's great! It's like a pre-made EGR block off plate! Doubt much sooty gases are getting past that...
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  #6  
Old 04-21-2009, 10:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Simpler=Better View Post
On the note of removing gunk, I was able to clean mine with a propane torch. I did it outside(obviously) and it took around an hour to burn off the gunk inside. Once burned to a crisp I was able to easily scrub it out.
HUH? You used a propane torch to clean the soot build up in the air intake passages? Is that what you are saying?
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daw_two
Germantown, TN

Links:
Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior
No longer selling Cluster Needles Paint
No longer selling New Old Stock (NOS) parts

Past:
3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda"
04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben"
& many more
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  #7  
Old 04-22-2009, 03:16 PM
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how is this related to the EGR plate? my SDL has it, my 300D has it

as for euros, when I need to change the bulbs I'll just spend the 10 minutes and pull the light housing off the car
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  #8  
Old 04-22-2009, 06:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDon View Post
how is this related to the EGR plate? my SDL has it, my 300D has it

as for euros, when I need to change the bulbs I'll just spend the 10 minutes and pull the light housing off the car
See post #293 --- On the W-126, the airflow meter prevents the removal of the bulb on the Euro lights. This necessitates removal of the entire headlight to change the bulb............a one hour procedure. So, although "cleanup" might not be the proper term...........I'd like to get rid of it for ongoing maintenance reasons.


So, my question is....would the removal of the device permit enough room to open the back of the Euro lights for bulb replacement? B.C. and I would probably prefer to NOT have to remove the entire light to change the bulb. Some of us aren't as fast (and limber) as you.
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daw_two
Germantown, TN

Links:
Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior
No longer selling Cluster Needles Paint
No longer selling New Old Stock (NOS) parts

Past:
3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda"
04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben"
& many more
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  #9  
Old 04-22-2009, 07:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daw_two View Post
So, my question is....would the removal of the device permit enough room to open the back of the Euro lights for bulb replacement?
Definitely. But, I'm not sure how to accomplish this and maintain the air cleaner. Dave offered up the only alternative..........a Euro connection in place of the airflow meter.

HitMan supposedly did it..........but the devil is in the details.
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  #10  
Old 04-22-2009, 11:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
Definitely. But, I'm not sure how to accomplish this and maintain the air cleaner. Dave offered up the only alternative..........a Euro connection in place of the airflow meter.

HitMan supposedly did it..........but the devil is in the details.


Before I got my Euro lamps on, the car is out of town so I can't go look and get updated pics. This is all I got guys.







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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.
[/IMG]
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  #11  
Old 04-22-2009, 07:19 PM
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one hour to remove the headlight.. what are you talking about. I had the us spec light out and everything in 5 minutes and took another 5 of putting the euro in and plugging it in.
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  #12  
Old 04-22-2009, 07:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDon View Post
one hour to remove the headlight.. what are you talking about. I had the us spec light out and everything in 5 minutes and took another 5 of putting the euro in and plugging it in.
Don, the real question is, can you change the bulb by removing the rear cover of the Euro headlight assembly, on the passenger side? It seems inexcusable that MB would design things where the entire headlamp would have to be removed. Sounds fishy to me.

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  #13  
Old 04-22-2009, 10:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDon View Post
one hour to remove the headlight.. what are you talking about. I had the us spec light out and everything in 5 minutes and took another 5 of putting the euro in and plugging it in.
SEE how fast you are? Sheeesh. I bet you can text 75 words a minute while doing that, too. Us older MB enthusaists aren't that quick plus we have a wife (or two ) and kids interrupting us, so we have to look for shortcuts.

Personally, I like shortcuts that I can fix in under 5 minutes along side of the road without using my reading glasses. Darn focal length is about 6 feet now. Anyone got a set of those really long wrenches for sale?
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daw_two
Germantown, TN

Links:
Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior
No longer selling Cluster Needles Paint
No longer selling New Old Stock (NOS) parts

Past:
3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda"
04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben"
& many more
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  #14  
Old 04-22-2009, 07:27 PM
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since the W126 300SDL was never meant to have european headlamps they never bothered with the issue should it arise. Also, since the sealed beams are removed from the front anyways.
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  #15  
Old 04-22-2009, 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by TheDon View Post
since the W126 300SDL was never meant to have european headlamps they never bothered with the issue should it arise. Also, since the sealed beams are removed from the front anyways.
Huh? USA-spec cars don't have sealed beams... they use those awful 9004 bulbs, replaced from the rear. EPC Group 82, subgroup 180, callout 56.

I never noticed that the 126 chassis with OM603 diesel engine was not offered outside the USA. How strange. Anyone have photos of this anomaly where the rear headlight door can't be removed?

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