Nope. Oil in the intake is normal. And my oil consumption is near zero, something like 1 quart per 6k or 8k miles... never hits the "min" mark between 10kmi changes with Delvac-1. This is on an OM603 with a KKK turbo, btw. Got 30.2mpg on my last tank (filled up last night) - woo-hoo!

I assure you oil in the intake is not normal. There is none in my 87 300 D Turbo. I think I must be missing something here. I have owned many diesels and that oil is coming from somewhere. I would be looking for the source.
I change my Shell Rotell 15w40 in the 3k mark. It is always down some. Maybe 1 quart.

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None in your 87 300D? When was the last time you pulled the crossover pipe and peeked inside? I'll be shocked if it's dry. There is even a note in the Mercedes factory service documentation that a small amount of oil in the intake is normal, it's mostly from the PCV system, with tiny amounts from the turbo seals (maybe). Usually you'll have a thin film of oil all through the intake charge pipes. One of these days I'll dig up the document and post it since nobody ever believes me.

BTW, it's smart to change your Rotella every 3k... don't use extended drains like I am without using a good Group IV/V synthetic oil.

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I had the trap oxidizer off to make a substitution pipe for my 300. I did not see any evidence of the oil film at that time. Mbenz put on one of their replacement pipes around 90 or 91 and there was no evidence of the film at that time. As it has been some time, I think I will look and see. The PVC valve has to give up some oil for sure. I will make a pic and upload it when my wife gets back from shopping.
I spoke with Ronnie Childress yesterday, who is the local Mbenz shop manager about this idea.
He gave me some pointers on the ALDA and the turbo. Things to look for. One thing he pointed out was a small filter inline with the vaccumn to the ALDA the he said gets stopped up and will cause all kinds of problems. It is hidden behind a hose on the water pump, in front of the head to the right. I'm going to block the Vac. line to the EGR valve and see if the performance increases.

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The item Ronnie is referring to is a "strainer", a small filter in the hose below the 4-way fitting. It prevents dirt & crud from getting sucked into the pump. Good idea to change it, a new one is about a dollar. The ALDA is a totally separate circuit, that's under pressure, not vacuum... the ALDA source fitting at the charge pipe can get plugged with crud and kill performance drastically. Cleaning it out fixes the problem. Ditto for the solenoid valve between the charge pipe and the ALDA, you should be able to blow through it... if not, it needs cleaning or replacement. Easy to test with a boost gauge and a "T" at the ALDA, you should see about 12psi boost at full throttle while driving - if zero, something is plugged!

You should definitely disable the EGR and ARV (air recirc valve on the turbo) both, plugging the lines will suffice, although I preferred to remove the plumbing entirely as shown in photos on the previous page of this thread. Less junk in the engine compartment is nice.

I took pics of my 87 300DT engine.
Only has 81K miles on it.
The post says the JPG file is too large!...Now What???
The file was only 288KB.

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Yeah, the file size limit is very low (50k?) and there's also a pixel limit of 600x800! Very, very annoying. I post pictures to my server and use the "IMG" tags to embed them in a post. Your ISP usually gives you some free web space for this, but you have to learn how to upload with FTP, etc. Also, you can use Photoshop Elements or a similar graphics program to reduce the file size, it's not usually hard to get a 300k image down to 50-100k with no loss in quality or size, and with a little smaller dimensions you can probably reduce it enough to pass through the forum limits....

There is a BIG problem with doint things that way. "ARCHIVES" you read in here how often this web forum is so great and it is. Each time you put pictures some place where they wont stay you degrade the archives from this forum. Someone does a search and finds great information that a good picture really tells the information butttttttt.. unfortunately the link to the picture is dead cause it was done as you say above.

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"Know other lessons I need to learn? TELL me. Tired of learning'em the hard way".

Glow Plug Wait: [i} Time of silence in homage Rudolph Diesel. Longer you own a diesel. more honor you give". [/i]

Life; SNAFU Situation Normal All Fouled Up, & FUBAR: Fouled Up Beyond All Repair

-Now: Snafued Jeep TJ w/OM617 2Be daily driver & building SS M1079 w/Ambo boxed /live in Adv. Truck, Diesel KLR conversion
-Sold 62 UNIMOG Camper w/617 Turbo, 85 300SD

I got my photo down to 77KB, but any less and there will be nothing to show. Maybe the forum gurus need to change this limit.

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Ah, but only if I kill the server. I own that domain and have no plans to remove it. It's hosted from a remote server farm, not under my desk. Minimal chance of losing this stuff. I'd be more than happy to upload to MBShop but their size limits are RIDICULOUS... just way too small!

You can also use something like photoshop to reduce the number of colors in the picture to make it smaller.

You don't need to post a 2160x1140 picture to be able to see it well.

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'84 300CD Turbo 132k (Anthracite Grey) - WVO - My daily driver - Recently named coo-coo-coupe by my daughter.
'84 300D Turbo 240k (Anthracite Grey) - Garage Queen
'83 300D Turbo 220k (Orient Red) - WVO - Wifes daily driver

I'm not a certified mechanic, but I did stay at a HolidayInn Express last night.

If it's a jpeg, you can reduce the quality (increase the compression) to reduce the size further. GIFs and other formats don't allow for this compression variability.

When I do post pix ONTO the board, I usually decrease the quality by about 70% (starts as a very high res. shot tho) and it STILL looks excellent.
Also, as you know, crop the pix to only what is relevent. And because of the restrictions on this board, as already stated, reduce the size to 800x600 or less.

Chris
'85 300SD

How about making the plate using Aircraft Aluminum (7075)? I wonder if using that with a high temp gasket instead of copper sealant would do the trick...


Adiel

The copper seems to be more malleable than the aluminum. We need to be able to tap the copper onto the face of the exhaust pipe and have the copper take the form of the front of the pipe. A gasket will not work for this situation because of the design of the clamp. The clamp exerts minimal compressive force on the face of the plate.

7075 alumimum might also do the trick, if it can be had thin enough.

An update on the kits:

I had the shop make several stamped discs in a size of 1.50 inches in copper for the exhaust plate. The 1.50 is slightly larger than the pipe, however, this serves as an advantage when tapping the face of the disc to follow the face of the pipe.

I heated the copper with a propane torch until it turned blue and let it cool. The copper is now very malleable, which is very good because there is not a lot of room to work on the 617. The disc is held against the face of the pipe and tapped lightly on the periphery to get the copper to follow the face. While tapping, the disc is rotated, using one's left hand. After about two minutes, the copper takes on the shape of the pipe with relative ease. This is why the copper is the preferred material choice.

On goes the Permatex copper sealant and the clamp is installed and tightened just snugly. If the clamp is tightened too much, the copper will distort and the leaking problem will rear its ugly head.

Start the 617 to put it in the garage. NO LEAK. So, we are close to a final solution. I would like to test the 617 at high power levels to be sure that the Permatex will stand up.

When the 617 passes the test, we will be good to go!

The 603 is all set. It has no leaks even with the crudely fashioned copper plate made with tin snips.

I will provide the Permatex for those that want it for the additional cost of $5.00. For those that have it, the cost will remain at $25.00 delivered.