Chimney Expert Needed - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

jaoneill · #31 10-28-2008, 10:02 PM

FWIW, as has been said before there are, or should be two caps on a masonry chimney; a cementitious chimney cap to keep water out of the structure and a flue cap to keep the water out of the flue. Although it is difficult to judge from the picture, you do not appear to have an adequate chimney cap on the CMU structure. In your climate the mix for the cap mortar should be heavy on portland cement, which will provide a more impervious surface than the normal mortar mix and last twice as long.

It would be my guess that the mason that built the chimney simply used the mortar he had left in the pan after laying the last block to form the cap and that it wasn't quite enough to create a decent pitch. This meant that water didn't drain as it should have, and the water soaked mortar then froze and fractured. What you likely have on the top of that structure is a crumbled mess of mortar residue.

Paying someone to attempt a repair with a tube of caulk would be an exercise in futility and a waste of money. Do as you would with your MB and do it right the first time. Judging by the spalled brick on the other chimney it would be prudent to have the cap on that one replaced at the same time; the spalling is a definitive indication of water infiltration.

Best of luck,
Jim

bill murrow · #32 10-30-2008, 07:34 AM

We'll find out whats what on Sat. when the chimney guy shows up....bar any high winds like we've been having here. I'm sending him up with my camera to take before and after pics. He's not going to simply caulk it. Don't know where you got the idea it was going to be a caulk only attempted fix. It does look like that chimney is just flat so he's going to place the cement up to the flue and then down to the edge to create some sort of pitch for the water to run off. The caulking, from what I can gather from the replies, should be placed between the brick chimney and the block one only. Please correct me if I'm wrong about that.

If none of the above works, then I'll look into sealing the block. I'm on a very limited budget otherwise I would have it all done at once. I do think the above will take care of the problem but thats yet to be seen.

What looks like spalling on the brick chimney is where my fine son was picking off birds with a shotgun.

The brick chimney does not leak a drop.

TMAllison · #33 10-30-2008, 12:55 PM

Whatever "cap" (sloped mortar) work is done needs to span both chimneys so that water from each is not directed to the area between the two.

bill murrow · #34 10-30-2008, 01:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TMAllison

Whatever "cap" (sloped mortar) work is done needs to span both chimneys so that water from each is not directed to the area between the two.

Correct you are. Thanks.

Zeus · #35 10-30-2008, 02:58 PM

Bill - I used to run a roofing company. Couple of things I'll offer -

1 -The seal between the bricks and blocks should be a high quality sealant as someone already mentioned (Jim). I would use a high-quality polyurethane sealant here, and make sure all mating surfaces are dry when applying. Polyurethane will remain elastic across a wide range of temps and will last a long time. Other sealants (traditional roofing tar being the worst) will dry, shrink and crack over several years.

2 - Cap. Agreed this is the likely source of the leak. Masonry caps don't last too long up here as the cold in the winter and the hot chimney + moisture will cause them to develop cracks, then water gets in and things degrade from there. Building a cement cap and then covering it with an aluminum cap cover is usually the best bet. The metal cap is attached to the mortar bed with silicone and it is sealed around the base. They last forever, aren't affected by the temperature flux and require only basic maintenance to periodically check the caulking.

Here is a high-end copper one, but you get the idea...

bill murrow · #36 10-30-2008, 03:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zeus

Bill - I used to run a roofing company. Couple of things I'll offer -

1 -The seal between the bricks and blocks should be a high quality sealant as someone already mentioned (Jim). I would use a high-quality polyurethane sealant here, and make sure all mating surfaces are dry when applying. Polyurethane will remain elastic across a wide range of temps and will last a long time. Other sealants (traditional roofing tar being the worst) will dry, shrink and crack over several years.

2 - Cap. Agreed this is the likely source of the leak. Masonry caps don't last too long up here as the cold in the winter and the hot chimney + moisture will cause them to develop cracks, then water gets in and things degrade from there. Building a cement cap and then covering it with an aluminum cap cover is usually the best bet. The metal cap is attached to the mortar bed with silicone and it is sealed around the base. They last forever, aren't affected by the temperature flux and require only basic maintenance to periodically check the caulking.

Hey now....#2 sounds like a really great idea.

My brick chimney has a cement cap but has never leaked in the 10 years I've been here. I'll possibly have the guy place aluminum over that as well just as a precaution.

Thanks. Sounds like a great plan. You can find anything ya want here...how to fix your car to block work. Great forum.

Zeus · #37 10-30-2008, 03:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bill murrow

Hey now....#2 sounds like a really great idea.

My brick chimney has a cement cap but has never leaked in the 10 years I've been here. I'll possibly have the guy place aluminum over that as well just as a precaution.

Thanks. Sounds like a great plan. You can find anything ya want here...how to fix your car to block work. Great forum.

Np! Yours is a bit trickier with the two adjacent chimneys, but it should be doable from what I've seen in the pics (bases being relatively same height). They are almost always custom built/fit anyway.

Jed89300E · #38 10-31-2008, 07:26 AM

[quote=bill murrow;2007027]

What looks like spalling on the brick chimney is where my fine son was picking off birds with a shotgun.

Funny you say that! I was going to mention spalling on the other chimney, but thought it looked more like it was chipped from the outside, like it had been hit with someting. I guess a bullet counts! I am eager to find out if we were right...

Agree with the former roofer about the poly seal @ the 2 chimneys. If you look back on my posts, I tell you what to look for and where to find it @ Home Depot.

bill murrow · #39 10-31-2008, 08:03 AM

[QUOTE=Jed89300E;2007957]

Quote:

Originally Posted by bill murrow

What looks like spalling on the brick chimney is where my fine son was picking off birds with a shotgun.

Funny you say that! I was going to mention spalling on the other chimney, but thought it looked more like it was chipped from the outside, like it had been hit with someting. I guess a bullet counts! I am eager to find out if we were right...

Agree with the former roofer about the poly seal @ the 2 chimneys. If you look back on my posts, I tell you what to look for and where to find it @ Home Depot.

I even wrote down the color of the tube so am well prepared to pick some up today!

Uh...yeah....how about that "spalling" on the brick chimney? He said he did kill a couple starlings.

bill murrow · #40 11-01-2008, 06:39 PM

Well, here's what the problem was....

There was a crack the width of the block chimney that was big enough to put your finger in and there were cracks all around the flue. They recemented it and left even though I had requested an aluminum cap be placed over top of the cement. Unfortunately I wasn't here or it would have been done that way. The guy took pics with his cell phone before and after and is supposedly going to email them to me so when I get them I'll post or will go take pics myself from the ground.

I guess we'll find out if the fix worked when it rains the next time. I'll keep you posted.

Can't tell you guys how much I appreciated all your help. A million thanks.

Now on to figure out how the rain water is getting into my 240.

Jed89300E · #41 11-01-2008, 09:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bill murrow

Well, here's what the problem was....

There was a crack the width of the block chimney that was big enough to put your finger in and there were cracks all around the flue.

The crack was up top in the cap, or the actual block was cracked?

bill murrow · #42 11-01-2008, 09:37 PM

The big crack was between the two chimneys in the mortar. Haven't talked to the guy myself so thats second hand info if you know what I mean.

t walgamuth · #43 11-01-2008, 10:32 PM

Well that surely was a big factor, perhaps even if you are fortunate, all of it. You'll know when you get a good driving rain if further efforts are required.

A metal cap that covers both chimneys might be a good idea.

Stoneseller · #44 11-02-2008, 06:57 AM

You will probably be good for a while, but seriously pursue getting a custom 1 piece metal cap that spans both chimneys. Those two structures will expand & contract differently, and a new hairline crack will occur in time. It could be real soon, or it might take a year or more. My money is on sooner rather than later. A metal cap seems like the best long term solution.

David

bill murrow · #45 11-02-2008, 07:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stoneseller

You will probably be good for a while, but seriously pursue getting a custom 1 piece metal cap that spans both chimneys. Those two structures will expand & contract differently, and a new hairline crack will occur in time. It could be real soon, or it might take a year or more. My money is on sooner rather than later. A metal cap seems like the best long term solution.

David

I totally agree and am rather disappointed the guy didn't do just that. Now to try and find somebody to do a permanent fix.