89 300CE 175K
Just set out to change out brake fluid with miti-vac. I think I know what I am doing but encountered a broken off bleeder nipple on front left caliper.

I don't have tools to drill out the stub or a replacement nipple. I've done the rears, put the wheels back on, jacked up the front, put it on jack stands (a driveway job) and there I am.

Any advice on clearing the caliper with the busted nipple? Should I just replace as much fluid as I can and worry about the front left later?

Thanks

Best you can do before fixing the bleeder is to bleed using the line connection at the caliper...

If the hex part that your turn is still there you can just unscrew it all the way with a hex wrench it will come out and you can replace it with one from the dealer or one that fits from an auto parts store; you don't need to drill it out.

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2005 Mercedes C230k sport sedan, 6 speed
1987 Porsche 924S - 968-engined track car

leave it alone.... no one in the real world changes brake fluid any way
thats just one of those added extra things...

do the other 3 and leave it alone... or better yet leave the other 3 alone
as well... use a large c clamp when you do the brake jobs... and just leave them be.....


Now.... if you must change the fluid go to the dollar store and buy a turkey baster.... open the fluild resvoir and suck out till your hearts desire and refill with clean fluid.... do this ...once a week for a month or two and you will have completely changed the fluid without messing with your system.

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Brilliant !!!!!

Never thought of that ..

How does the fluid recirculate back to the res . ??? .. or is it the diffusion principle ??
..and , of course , what about the hygroscopic properties of the fluid..??

Back to School.

Not to mention the grunge being forced back through the lines by the application of the C clamp. Dat's a good way to kill ABS valves. Or so I've heard.

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1989 300 SEL that mostly works, but needs TLC

No Problem... Turkey Baster will pick that crap right up, Don't cha know...??

How else to you push the caliper pistons back in when you put new pads on it? Thats how its been done since they cam out with Disc brakes. If you have crunge in there you have other problems to deal with. Never hurt my ABS brakes and I have done them 6 times on my Saturn...4 wheel Disc brakes with ABS and traction control...never an issue.

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Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
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Section 609 MVAC Certified
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"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche

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You open the bleeder and then push the piston back in.. that's how...and that lets the crap out of the system. Not back up the line.
.. and , yes , if there is crap in the fluid you have a problem , the problem being you never changed the fluid..which will bring on further problems ..

Do you change your oil???

your way requires you to bleed your brakes every time you do a brake job....something excesive. I've never had a single problem in the 32 years I have done brake jobs....nore do I know a single mechanic that triples the work of a brake job in this manner.

__________________
Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
---------------------
Section 609 MVAC Certified
---------------------
"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche

Boy , you blew that one
You don't bleed the system at all, You simply open the bleeder to make pushing the caliper back WITHOUT having to use a clamp.. cuz there is now no PRESSURE to push against .. meaning LESS work..When the caliper is back , you tighten the bleeder , No bleeding needed ,and with the added benefit of getting rid of the crap in the caliper ... plus , talk about less work.. now you do not even have to worry about the fluid raising the res level to overflow.
.. if you do not know a single mechanic that knows this common, time saving trick of the trade , you do not know any good mechanics..
.. and I will not even continue to school you on the benefits of brake fluid changes , cuz anyone who has been doing brakes for 32 years and would not be familiar with the hygroscopic properties of brake fluid and the problems that it causes is not about to listen to common sense..

That's a fantastic method. I've always done it the traditional way and paid attention not to overflow the reservoir. Why worry about it with this approach.

The bleeding is not an issue with either approach.

[QUOTE=Brian Carlton]That's a fantastic method. I've always done it the traditional way and paid attention not to overflow the reservoir. Why worry about it with this approach.

Yes, good Trade Tip...
Fast, simple , and clean...

Easiest way it to open bleeder , stick small bar in front of pad [ using pad to push caliper in] , and close bleeder as soon as the caliper is fully seated into cavity...then you remove pads.
Takes all of 15 seconds...
I also use a clear plastic hose over the bleeder into a waste can so the crap fluid doesn't make a mess and I can see it coming out the clear hose.
If the owner had enough sense to change the fluid regularly, it will be fairly clean. If it is real Pea colored, you will see it through the clear hose and can bleed some more off til it starts to run clear... just takes another minute and assures one of a job well done..

Now you know two.

__________________
1989 300 SEL that mostly works, but needs TLC

the manual says to use a c clamp...

last week i opened the nipple and still had to use the c clamp..
everybody uses the c clamp and if you go have them done professionally
they use a hydralic C clamp...

If you decide to mess with this caliper that has the broken off nipple you are going to have to remove the caliper. Take it to a machine shop and have it withdrawn... You car will be down for a while and you may have to replace the caliper.... if you must, grab a caliper from a junk yard and rebuild it or buy yourself a new one and replace it the next time you do your breaks..

I promise you there is noting more flustrating then to sit on a stool for 8 or 10 hours dealing with this sort of thing... one fellow advised you break the line loose and bleed it that way... well i don't know how that can be done but the last time i replaced a break like to a caliper it took all day....


rule 1: if it works don't fix it.
rule 2: keep it simple