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  #1  
Old 09-10-2005, 10:09 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Evansville, Indiana
Posts: 8,150
Dumb question about a window regulator

I've got to replace the window motor/regulator on the TE this week -- clicks but won't move.

Problem is that the manual calls for lowering the window and it's stuck closed (fortunately!).

Any hints? It's necessary to unbolt the regulator from the window bottom bracket, and I'm not sure I can reach it with the window up -- haven't pulled the door panel yet to check.

Thanks guys!

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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  #2  
Old 09-10-2005, 11:07 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Urbana, Missouri
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window

Yes, remove the door panel. You didn't say what car it was, by the way? 300SD I did required removing 2 screw at botton of door panel, chrome molding on door edge, screw lock button, door pull, and maybe door handle (don't remember for sure).
Probably you will need new regulator. Sounds like teeth may be gone or regulator is broken. If you still need to drive car while getting replacement regulator I just stuck a piece of wood cut to length to hold up window: hillbilly engineering. Window motor was held in place by a couple of screws with allen wrench heads (I'm mechanically challenged). Never had to actually remove the motor just detach it from the regulator. Lot of little odd pieces to keep track of. Just go slow. I had to do this with three windows. Would not want to do it again but I'd be much faster next time.
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  #3  
Old 09-10-2005, 11:38 PM
Craig
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psfred
I've got to replace the window motor/regulator on the TE this week -- clicks but won't move.

Problem is that the manual calls for lowering the window and it's stuck closed (fortunately!).

Any hints? It's necessary to unbolt the regulator from the window bottom bracket, and I'm not sure I can reach it with the window up -- haven't pulled the door panel yet to check.

Thanks guys!

Peter
I recently removed a stuck regulator from a W123 rear door. I unbolted the regulator from the door frame, which allowed the entire regulator and the window to be lowered a few inches. I was then able to get a wrench on the two bolts that hold the regulator to the window. Once the regulator was disconnected from the window, I was able to wiggle the regulator around enough to get it out of the door.
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  #4  
Old 09-11-2005, 05:57 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Charlestown, NH
Posts: 1,008
Peter,
For my '87 300TD it was similar to what Craig said when removing the motor/regulator. After the interior panel was off, I removed the (think it was five) bolts using a 10mm socket. Please remember to mark the bolt location on where it passes through the elongated hole. I didn't do that and it made re-installation a little more difficult since that appears to be the adjustment for the inward/outward tilt of the window. Of course you want to disconnect the four-wire harness also in order to allow the motor removal. The above allowed the entire unit, including glass, to be lowered enough to gain access to the final bolt which passes through the metal regulator attachment into the frame at the bottom of the glass. From there, you will see that you will need to raise the window manually, either tape it to the top of the door with duct tape or as I did, have a wooden stake about two feet long ready to prop the window once you twist and turn the motor/regulator out of the opening. The first time I used the tape method and the second the wood. I didn't want to have to clean the tape residue again.

I don't know what type of problem you are having to solve but if you separate the motor from the regulator arms via the three bolts passing into the side of the motor you can usually unbind a stuck motor/regulator. Once that is done, you can remove the two bolts and pull the motor away from the regulator unit. I found mine to be filled with rust, moisture and no real amount of grease. As you know, a couple of test leads and a battery will allow you to test the motor forward and backward. If all seems good, you can stuff grease (I used syn moly however someone later suggested marine type) into the hole, re-secure the boot seal, reattach the motor and using the leads and battery again, work the heck out of the combination to get the grease distributed.
Steve
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Steve
'87 300TD - 132K - Soon 4-Sale
'84 300D Turbo - 122K - Driving
'77 VW Type II - 77K - Restored
'08 250EX Ninja
English Bulldog (Brier) - My best friend. Passed away 12/02/04 while in my arms.
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  #5  
Old 09-11-2005, 01:04 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Evansville, Indiana
Posts: 8,150
Thanks steve!

The problem is that the motor clicks when current is applied via the switch (new switch is the same, by the way) while the window does not move. I'm assuming it's stuck, either from motor failure due to bushing wear (this happend on the Volvo, the armature sticks to the stator windings when the end bushing is worn enough, motor won't turn even with help) OR the regulator is jammed.

I have a replacement regulator and motor, just wanted to know what I was getting into with it stuck all the way up.

Peter
__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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  #6  
Old 09-11-2005, 01:44 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Charlestown, NH
Posts: 1,008
Peter,
The stuck regulator/motor was what I started with. Mine was right, front. Power from the switch to the four-wire connector and I could hear a clicking at the motor. It turned out the two exterior gears were bound at their extended range. Once separated, the tension released, I applied battery power and it operated. I made the mistake of re-installing w/o taking the time to investigate deeper. Put it all back together, lasted a day or so then stopped again. Practice session paid off because I tore it apart much quicker (typical) and this time spent the extra time that I should have the first time. Glad I didn't buy the used assembly since this one is now working great. Actually, the smoothest operating one of the four.

Keep us posted . . .
Steve

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Steve
'87 300TD - 132K - Soon 4-Sale
'84 300D Turbo - 122K - Driving
'77 VW Type II - 77K - Restored
'08 250EX Ninja
English Bulldog (Brier) - My best friend. Passed away 12/02/04 while in my arms.
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