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Adjusting "slack" in the steering system
I got this response from a member here on the forums on how to lessen the "play" in the steering. I am wondering if this the same procedure applies to the 85' 380SE as it does to the 84' 300D. I am hoping that I can easily eliminate some of the slop in my steering. I thought I would post here for more exposure.
"Adjusting "play" in the steering system" Thanks for that information. Now I have a 85' 380SE, so I am wondering if this is the same basic procedure as the 84' 300D? Thanks." Quote: Originally Posted by FA18C To adjust the free play in the steering whell (the slop, so to speak), you will find a large bolt on the sterring column, it has an allenhead nut in the center. It is a large 20-22mm bolt and I think a 10mm allen head. You loosen the bolt, and adjust the allen head COUNTER clockwise. Recommend 1/4 turns. I had to use a craftsman wrench with a pivot, one of the ratcheting wrenches, so that I could keep the allen head from moving when I tightened it back up. took me all of 10-15 minutes and it removed all but about 3/4" play in the steering wheel. (From another board, that is close to factory) If you adjust the allen head too much and remove all the play, the steering does not seek neutral and you will be forever correcting. I was amazed at the difference, sterring feels great. I am happy with all of the mechanicals on my car, just need to sort out the AC and I have a mix of copper and solder fuses that I want to replace whole sale. A windoe regulator is on the way, so hopefully I can sort out these minor nuisance electrical quirks and enjoy the car. We are thinking of running 20 RUG and 80 WVO if I can locate a good source. From reading that appears to give great results without modifying the car. |
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I've wanted to do this as well in a 300e...but i think there is a big difference between the gassers and diesels. I would have to custom make a wrench (or get some sort of stubby) in hopes of getting to the loosening bolt... i just don't have room between the box and the engine.
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1989 300ce 129k ( facelifted front,updated tail lights, lowered suspension,bilstein sports, lorinser front spoiler, MOMO steering wheel, remus exhaust,stainless steel brake lines). (Gone) 1997 s320 154k (what a ride). Sold with 179k miles. Replaced with Hyundai Equus 1994 e320 Cabriolet 108k 1972 280se 4.5 153k Owned for 12 yrs, sorry I sold it [/SIGPIC] |
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What he says is correct. Its a tight fit but I managed it from under the car, mostly by feel. A small mirror may help. The adjustment makes a big difference. There is still play but not nearly so much as before.
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1985 380SE Blue/Blue - 230,000 miles 2012 Subaru Forester 5-speed 2005 Toyota Sienna 2004 Chrysler Sebring convertible 1999 Toyota Tacoma |
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Thanks. So the instructions that "FA18C" gave on the 84' 300D procedure is the same as the 84-85' 380SE? I would really like to adjust mine. Is the adjustment made on the steering column under the car? I am still unsure of where this "bolt" is located on the column.
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hi, the nut and bilt are located on the steering gear box not on the steering column it self.
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this may be one of those rare jobs where a tech could knock it out pretty quick with the right tools and a lift.
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1989 300ce 129k ( facelifted front,updated tail lights, lowered suspension,bilstein sports, lorinser front spoiler, MOMO steering wheel, remus exhaust,stainless steel brake lines). (Gone) 1997 s320 154k (what a ride). Sold with 179k miles. Replaced with Hyundai Equus 1994 e320 Cabriolet 108k 1972 280se 4.5 153k Owned for 12 yrs, sorry I sold it [/SIGPIC] |
#7
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Just be sure about what you are doing, since you are dealing with a critical safety component of your car.
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1985 380SE Blue/Blue - 230,000 miles 2012 Subaru Forester 5-speed 2005 Toyota Sienna 2004 Chrysler Sebring convertible 1999 Toyota Tacoma |
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steering play
well i read the other posts and felt the following is warranted.what you are attempting to adjust is the preload on the power steering gear box.it consists of a 19mm locking collar nut and a 6mm allen on the adjustment.the locking nut has a sealing surface on the bottom side and any of you that plan this adjustment might want to buy a spare nut from the dealer incase the sealing surface gets damaged[remember murphy's law]cause if it leaks when you're done it will empty the pwr steering fluid very fast.you will need a 19mm crows foot wrench [3/8th drive]18inch extention and a 3/8th rachet.the centre adjustment is a 6mm allen.it is exactly the opposite of what you would think.by unscrewing the 6mm [ccw]you increase the preload and take away the slack in the steering.WARNING dont go crazy.if you go too far your steering will no longer self centre and you can easily have a wreck.make the adjustment a half turn at a time and then check it.this post only applies to benzes where you have access to the top of the pwr st g/box.v8's are a whole different animal.please also remember that the tie rods, drag link and idler arm bushings have to be in good shape or you will still have sloppy steering. david poole european performance dallas tx.
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That is what mine is.... a V8. With my car being a 1985, I doubt that all of these things mentioned are in good shape. Probably a waste of time for me to do. I do not really know what I am doing anyway. Oh well.
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Heed David's warnings about everything else being good in the steering/suspension. There seem to be way too many owners starting with an adjustment of the steering box when that's the last thing that should be touched.
Len '83 240D 345,000 miles original owner and the steering box has never been touched. One inch of play is within spec. |
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Thanks. I guess I will deal with the "sloppy" steering. Its still not as bad as my 95' Suburban was. The Mercedes is not that bad, but not what I expect from a German car. It is not as precise as it should be.
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Hi 86
I agree with the other posts, steering box last. It is amazing what replacement of the steering componants does for the handling and feel of the car. These are wear parts after all and on a 20 year old car have seen a bit of wear. When I got mine, I had all the rubber bits and a few of the joints replaced and what a difference it made - they are not that expensive either. Cheers
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1988 W126 420 SE beware of fundamentalists! |
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Hi and thanks. I will probably live with it, or sell it, because I have heard this is a costly repair. My car needs too many other things, such as timing chain/rails, (since I have no idea when they were changed) etc., idle control valve, and a worn camshaft to be putting alot of $$$ into it (a "worn out" car). The slack is not a big deal. It just seemed like someone had let it seem like an "easy fix" by the turn of a bolt. I thought that sounded too good to be true. Perhaps I will win the lottery someday and be able to buy a new one.
Last edited by 86560SEL; 07-25-2006 at 10:55 PM. |
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I didn't replace anything. I did study the steering box, and I saw that turning the shaft, there was delayed movement on the arm going to the steering linkage. So there was obviously some room for adjustment, despite other possible worn parts. Still, I have about 1 inch of play at center.
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1985 380SE Blue/Blue - 230,000 miles 2012 Subaru Forester 5-speed 2005 Toyota Sienna 2004 Chrysler Sebring convertible 1999 Toyota Tacoma |
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