i used the old races to hammer the new ones back in. heated the hub in the oven and put the races in the freezer. getting the races in was about the easiest part of this whole job for me!

now i can't get the hub cap on to save my life. if i hit very hard i'm going to dent it up beyond useable..

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R Martin
Dallas, TX (Addison)

86 560SEL, 128K

The hub's dust cap? 2" ID black iron pipe fits over the end and contacts the rim perfectly, 2"ID PVC fits well also after you remove enough material on the inside edge to allow the dust cap's radius to clear it. A 6" long section of pipe also helps you get it lined up as well as allowing you to use something to tap it into place. The cap is 52 mm at its rim!

MB actually has a tool specifically designed to make short work of removing and installing these hub dust caps, probably not worth the price for most but a nice solution if you do this job frequently and can find one used!





The three "claws" open by rotating a spring loaded cam wheel, then the slide hammer feature allows a tap or two, to remove it; re-installing it the slide hammer makes it a cinch!

i cleaned up the old one and put it back on. it wasn't damaged at all and went on much easier. i think the aftermarket cap may be just a hair too tight.

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R Martin
Dallas, TX (Addison)

86 560SEL, 128K

nice cap puller...

It's easy to get them off without damage- with the brake rotor still mounted. I use a drum brake adjuster. A few hits with my hand or a dead-plow. Working around the perimter .. they come right off.

Heating the hub won't help take the bearing out as it heats up and the interferance remains. MB doesn't provide a notch like some American stuff, so the lip of the inner race extending past the hub is small. A few good hits and they will come out. Key is on a punch, it must have a good square edge. A few hits and they need to be cleaned up.

I ussually clean the hub inside to remove old grease, wash with soap and water to remove brake dust. Then bake it at 250 which is quite safe. Put the new race in the freezer for 1/2 hr and it will go together very easy. Buy a race driver set- soft alumium drivers to fit the race. Get it started quickly and drive them home hard.
You can buy premium american(sometimes French) Timken bearings at Autozone. Quit buying the SKF as they are now made in Mexico(NAPA).

Michael

I entirely agree with Mike D, “Use the proper tool for the proper job”.
I use the Bearing Race and Seal Driver Set to remove and install bearing racers, even bearings and seals. Sometimes the use of a press with the tool makes easier or a bolt and a nut with washers.

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Deltacom ~ Absit Iniuria Verbis ~

X2

I couldn't agree more - every time some one says use a hammer it is best to consider whether you could use a press instead. Do a search for the threads initiated by dieseldan for home made pullers and presses that use threaded bar and washers

I've made a couple of threads my self with this type of approach and I like to use wood!

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!